South East Wales Sandstone
If you are not familiar with the sandstone quarries of the South Wales Coalfield the following should be noted:
The sandstone rock texture ranges from moderately soft and sandy (Llanbradach & Sirhowy) to hard and crystalline (Cwmaman, Mountain Ash) with some natural edges similar to gritstone (Cilfrew Edge and Penallta). Whichever type you encounter there is a chance that small flakes and edges will snap off, even on well travelled routes, fortunately most of the routes are sensibly bolted for this unlikely eventuality.
The typical sandstone season extends from Easter to October, during the winter there are limited chances to find dry rock (exceptions can include Cwmcarn, Navigation Quarry, Ferndale, the slabs at the Darren, left wall of lower quarry of The Gap, Cilfrew Edge, Trehafod and Trebanog). After periods of prolonged heavy rain most of the crags require a drying off period, even during the summer.
As with other inland areas midges are problematic during late spring and summer. The worst affected crags have standing water nearby or are located in dense woodland and should generally be avoided after 7.00pm (i.e. Llanbradach, The Darren, Cwm Dimbath).
The best crags for a first visit are:
The Gap - A good spread of fingery vertical routes between Fr.5+ and Fr.7c.
The Darren - Steep routes between Fr.6c+ and Fr.7b+ with a few good warm ups on the slabs.
Trebanog - Predominantly short traditional climbs on solid rock with reasonable protection.
Navigation - A mix of trad and sport on slabs, a nice location.
Tirpentwys - Grades between Fr.4 and Fr.7b+ (mainly in the lower end of the spectrum).
Undeveloped crags in Sandstone area:
|Is located in sub area||Is located in local area||Lat/Long|
|Blaen Bran Quarry||Sandstone Eastern Valleys||51.666830, -3.0645365|
|Brittania Quarry||Sandstone Western Valleys||51.602786, -3.394512|
|Coedcaerau-bach||Sandstone Western Valleys||51.53926, -3.354268|
|Craig Trebanos - Pontardawe||Sandstone Far Western Valleys|
|Cwm||Sandstone Eastern Valleys||51.736364, -3.1840762|
|Darren Fawr (Garw Valley)||Sandstone Western Valleys||51.622706, -3.5956836|
|Maerdy - Rhondda Fach||Sandstone Western Valleys||51.674531,-3.4909782|
|Mountain Ash West||Sandstone Western Valleys||51.674997,-3.3853287|
|Pontrhydyfen||Sandstone Far Western Valleys||51.63187, -3.742444|
|Pontygwaith Quarry||Sandstone Western Valleys||51.635361, -3.435046|
|Swffryd Wood Quarry||Sandstone Eastern Valleys||51.68403,-3.12314|
|Turberville Road Quarry||Sandstone Central Valleys||51.621459, -3.417624|
|Tylorstown Quarry||Sandstone Western Valleys||51.652320, -3.425395|
|Tyn-y-coed||Sandstone Western Valleys||51.539026, -3.322476|
|Ynyshir Quarry||Sandstone Western Valleys||51.620446,-3.405830|
|Ynyshir West||Sandstone Western Valleys||51.624112, -3.4166952|
This category has the following 4 subcategories, out of 4 total.
Pages in category ‘South East Wales Sandstone’
The following 133 pages are in this category, out of 133 total.
- Cefnstylle Quarry
- Cilfrew Main Crag
- Cilfrew Outlying Areas
- Cilfrew Ravens Cliff
- Clydach Quarry
- Clydach Vale Bogmonster Quarry
- Clydach Vale Cambrian Quarry
- Coed Ely
- Cox's Quarry
- Craig Alltacham
- Craig Cefn Parc
- Craig Cwm
- Craig Trebanos - Pontardawe
- Craig Tyle-Cam
- Craig y Pal-Glais
- Crosskeys Quarry
- Crumlin (X3)
- Crymlyn Quarries
- Cwm Capel
- Cwm Dimbath
- Cwm-Parc Street
- Cwmaman Main
- Cwmaman West