Cefnstylle Quarry

From South Wales Climbing Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search
Cefnstylle Quarry
Cefnstylle quarry.jpg
Rock Type Quarried Sandstone
Climbing Style Sport
Approach Time 3 minutes
Area Sandstone
Sub Area Sandstone Far Western Valleys
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.646625, -4.064993
OS Grid Ref. SS 572 962
WGS-84 Parking Location
GR Parking Location
Parking Postcode SA4 3QS
Base Elevation 42 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction East
Aspect Rarely Sunny
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type Normal
Midge Problem Mild
Seepage Needs a long dry spell
Crags Within 5.0 km

Cefnstylle Quarry, Dunvant Quarry, Sunnybank




BOLTING POLICY

PREAMBLE

A quite small and very obscure sandstone quarry near Gowerton. The crag is a little over 12 metres in height and 35 metres wide. It is covered over by trees and overgrown in places.

Gower's only sandstone crag and worth a visit for the curious.

The place could yield more routes and be a source of evening entertainment for jaded Swansea/Gowerton locals who like no more than a 3 minute walk in.

Probably not applicable in such an obscure venue but kindly wear out your own quickdraws not the belays if top roping.

ACCESS



To find your desired crag, type the name in to the Filter Markers box (top right corner of the map).

Loading map...


Take the B4295 west along the North Gower from Gowerton for about 1 mile to an unmarked road on the left by a telephone box and a row of houses. On the right is a row of houses and, just after the last house and as the tree canopy over the road starts to close, head up the bank on the right side of the road and walk up an overgrown track for about 30 metres.

DESCENTS

Lower-offs partly renewed. Short 30m rope ok.

THE ROUTES

  1. Twinky's Amazing Gnarly Old Crenellated Foreskin - Fr.5+****
    The left hand line starting at the large flake. Belay crab needed (stolen already). Only an early repeat will validate the amazing quality of this route

  2. Winky’s Amazing Technicolour Tracksuit - Fr.6b+
    A line past 3 BR's to a LO and top bolt shared with next route. 11m.

  3. An Old Bolt Line - Fr.6b+
    1m right, 3 BR's,shared last bolt and LO. 11m.

  4. Rock A Block - Fr.5+
    Gain the diagonal breakline follow it to finish at either lower off. 11/15m

  5. Peg Scare - HVS,4c
    No details supplied, the peg may emerge from under the ivy once stripped. Your guess is as good as mine. 11m.

First Ascents

  1. Twinky's Amazing Gnarly Old Crenellated Foreskin - R.Thomas G.Ashmore 28.09.2013
  2. Winky’s Amazing Technicolour Tracksuit - M.Richards 00.00.1996
  3. An Old Bolt Line - Unknown Pre-1996
  4. Rock A Block - M.Richards 00.00.1996
  5. Peg Scare - M.Richards, J.Brown 17.06.1996

Additional Photos

Notes