Cox's Quarry

Geodata
Cox's Quarry



Rock Type	Quarried Sandstone
Climbing Style	Sport
Approach Time	20 minutes
Area	Sandstone
Sub Area	Sandstone Eastern Valleys
WGS-84 Location	51.621500, -3.133614
OS Grid Ref.	ST 216 920
WGS-84 Parking Location	51.618311, -3.1328456
GR Parking Location	ST 216 916
Parking Postcode	NP11 7RE
Base Elevation	209 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction	East
Aspect
Wind Sheltered

Climbing Type	Normal
Seepage
Crags Within 5.0 km
Cox's Quarry, Crosskeys Quarry, Cwmcarn, Fernlea Slabs - Risca, Henllys Quarry, Ridgeway, Sirhowy - Quarry Mawr, Tyle y Coch
BMC RAD
RAD Notice/Restriction	Cox's Quarry@BMC RAD

Cox's Quarry
Sport Grades
<= 6a+	2
6b - 6c+	5
7a - 7b	0

BOLTING POLICY

It's a sandstone quarry so sport climbing.

PREAMBLE

Birds of prey nest here so it would be unwise to develop or climb on the high right side of the crag from the start of April to the 15th of August. See BMC RAD Notice.

Easily accessed via the Ebbw Valley Walk, this is the big quarry you see when driving to Risca after leaving J28 M4.

South-east facing it receives sunlight until the mid-afternoon. Could be a really good winter crag. Seepage is only a problem on the very lowest tier in the centre of the quarry. Above this it is dry throughout the year.

The short left-hand side of the crag has several routes and closed projects mostly bolted with glue ins.

ACCESS

Turn off the A467 into South Blackvein Industrial Estate and park by the FC gate on the right. Walk up the FC path until the 3rd track leading off to the left up into the woods after the final logpile. This track swings back on itself in u turn on the final approach.

ROUTES

Little Red Wall

A short 10m wall on the lower left section of crag close to the track and well away from the central bird nesting area 50m above the track.

Cox's Quarry - Little Red Wall

Closed Project
Micro crack, either lower off string on tree, if you like mud, or share the belay on the right.
Cox Bloc - Fr. 6a
Very short wall to belay block.
Thieving Cox - Fr. 6b+
Steep wall to belay just below brambles L of crack.
Flav's Boner Crack - Fr. 6a
Obvious crack to grassy ledge and tree. Done trad but later regeared to a bolt belay. Feel free to repeat as trad, have fun clearing the brambles.
Hands off Cox - Fr. 6c
Fingery wall R of crack
On with Cox - Fr. 6c+
Crimp fest steepening to belay on nose.
Sox on Cox - Fr. 6c+ **
Start as for previous then move right at the first bolt taking the middle of the wall and up the nose to the rings.
Smears on Cox - Fr. 6c **
Start on the undercut arête; bouldery problems stacked on half-decent rests.

Continuation Walls

Above the LRW are Continuation Walls. Sadly, unless you are prepared to raze the "bramble barrier", they can't be part of a multipitch effort. The starts can be gained by a brambly L to R " path" from the steep slope on the left. A guide rope may be in place depending on wether or not it's been stolen. You are out of luck! Guide rope and two others plus belay carabiners stolen; too bad!🤣😃