Siocled Seren Pysgod Quarry
| Siocled Seren Pysgod Quarry | |
| Rock Type | Quarried Sandstone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Sport |
| Approach Time | |
| Area | Sandstone |
| Sub Area | Sandstone Eastern Valleys |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.716345, -3.1311893 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SO 219 025 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | |
| GR Parking Location | |
| Base Elevation | 252 metres (SRTM Estimation) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | |
| Aspect | |
| Wind Sheltered | |
| Climbing Type | |
| Seepage | |
| Crags Within 5.0 km | |
|
Crymlyn Quarries, Cwm, Glyn Quarry, Oakdale, Siocled Seren Pysgod Quarry, Swffryd Wood Quarry, Tirpentwys | |
Contents
Bolting Policy
Bolting Permitted - The more the Merrier.
Access
The quarry is located above the village of Six Bells, directly overlooking the Six Bells Miners Memorial.
Approaching from Newport, follow the A467 to the roundabout at Aberbeeg. Taking the third exit, following the signs to Six Bells.
In the village of Six Bells one passes the Six Bells Hotel. Immediately opposite the pub Cemetery Road rises towards the village of Brynithel (brown road sign with church symbol). Follow this road for a few hundered meters where a layby is located on the left. Park here and follow the road back down about 50m to a rusty gate and rising track. The track leads directly into the quarry.
GR SO (3)21949 (2)02563
51.716345, -3.1311893
Descents
All routes have lower-offs or shared lower-offs.
Preamble
A compact quarry with routes in the low to mid grades. The sandstone is clean and very good quality. The quarry has an open aspect and dries quickly.
ROUTES
Left Hand Wall
The left of the quarry appears broken but contains a few gems.
- Worzel's Sore Stump - Fr. 5
The blocky arête to chain LO. - Worzel Swede Splitter - Fr. 5+
Second line in quarry leading to the splitter crack and lower-off. - Little Miss Dirty Fingers - Fr. 4+
Leftward trending scramble to base of vertical crack - Climb crack or face. - No More Mr Nice Gummidge - Fr. 6a
Up the twisting crack, over the roof onto jugs. - Aunt Sally - Fr. 6a+
Right of Mr Gummidge, delicate moves on tiny foot holds with huge reaches.
Right Hand Wall
- The Not so Great Gully- Fr. 5++ (XS 4c)
The arête on the righthand side of the gully. Best to lower-off from the ledge as the rock above appears 'detached' - Stand by Your Moose - Fr. 5+
The leftward trending fissure beneath the rhodedendron. - Dancing Spleen - Fr. 5+
The next crack in the wall,great moves at the top. - Malfoy - Fr. 5+
The face to the left of the sloping arête/
Arête Area
As one enters the quarry they are met with a prominent arête.
- Pucker Up - Fr. 6a
Left hand side of the slab to the left of the arête. - Hershey Highway - Fr. 5
Centre of slab left of arête. - Worzel Japsi - Fr. 5+ **
The best route in the quarry? A direct ascent of the arête on reachy moves. Excellent flawless rock. - Silverback - Fr. 5
The centre of the face to the right of the arête. - Nip Off a Fu**ing Fat Brown Turd - Fr. 5
Short face route to the right of the corner.Owing to the assumed racial sensitivity of the previous one this rename reflects the previous theme and may prove less offensive. Apologies if any one is offended by the use of "fat" - Half Crown-Threpenny Bit - Fr.5+
Middle route on the short face. - Local Scrote - Fr 5+
The third short face. - Jiraffio'r Seren Fôr Las - Fr. 5+
Big crack to the left of Blue Orgy. Stepped with a few strong moves. A solo. Awaiting bolting. - Blue Orgy - Fr. 4
The stepped scramble in the right of the quarry upto fist jam crack. Possibly the easiest bolted route in South Wales or is ripple slab (Fr 3 at Blaenllechau) the holder of this dubious accolade? Ideal for beginners. - Smurfettes' Night Off - Fr. 4
The arête, approached from its righthad side. Another nice route for beginners - The Hills are Alive with the Smell of Starfish) - Fr. 5
The left edge of the slab, trending rightwards. - Love Songs from the Meat Counter - Fr. 5+
The right side of the slab direct.
FIRST ASCENTS
Left Hand Wall
- Worzel's Sore Stump - R.Thomas N. O'Neill D. Emanuel 2011
- Worzel Swede Splitter - R. Thomas, N. O'Neil 10/08/2011
- Little Miss Dirty Fingers - D. Emanuel 06/08/2011
- No More Mr Nice Gummidge - D. Emanuel, R. Thomas, N. O'Niel 10/08/2011
- Aunt Sally - D. Emanuel 06/08/2011
Right Hand Wall
- The Not so Great Gully) - D. Emanuel
- Stand by Your Moose - D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 06/08/2011
- Dancing Spleen - 'D Emanuel
- Malfoy - D. Emanuel 15/10/2011
Arête Area
- Pucker Up - R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 11/07/2011
- Hershey Highway - R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 11/07/2011
- Worzel Japsi - D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 11/07/2011
- Silverback - D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 11/07/2011
- Nip Off a Fu**ing Fat Brown Turd - R. Thomas D Emanuel ( previously named CHOKE A DARKY but renamed ( woked)06/08/2011
- Half Crow - R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 11/07/2011
- Local Scrote - D. Emanuel, (Solo avec drill) 31/07/2011
- Jiraffio'r Seren Fôr Las - Bryn Jenkins (solo) 08/07/2022
- Blue Orgy - D. Emanuel
- Smurfettes' Night Off - D. Emanuel 06/08/2011
- (The Hills are Alive with the Smell of Starfish) - D. Emanuel
- (Love Songs from the Meat Counter) - D. Emanuel
