The Farm

From South Wales Climbing Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search
The Farm
Cragshot the farm.jpg
Rock Type Quarried Sandstone
Climbing Style Sport
Approach Time
Area Sandstone
Sub Area Sandstone Western Valleys
WGS-84 Location 51.63641, -3.48814
OS Grid Ref. SS 971 941
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.642220, -3.4778392
GR Parking Location SS 978 947
Parking Postcode CF41 7TQ
Base Elevation 283 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction North West
Aspect Partially Sunny
Wind Sheltered
Climbing Type Normal
Crags Within 5.0 km

Blaenllechau, Bwlch Mountain Road, Clydach Vale Bogmonster Quarry, Clydach Vale Cambrian Quarry, Cwm Dimbath, Dan Dicks, Edmonston Quarry and Edge, Ferndale Lower Quarry, Ferndale Main, Ferndale Right, Gelli, Llwynypia, Maerdy - Rhondda Fach, Pontygwaith Quarry, Punk Rocks, Sheriff Quarry - Maerdy, The Farm, Ton Pentre, Trebanog, Treherbert Quarry, Turberville Road Quarry, Tylorstown Quarry, Ynyshir West


A recent find (2022-23). An old quarry situated on farm land.


The owner has kindly given permission to climb there at our own risk. Please do not abuse her goodwill by driving onto her property. Instead park as for Gelli Crag then walk up the very rough track past the farm and stables. Quarry is up on the left. Leave your dog at home as there is a lot of stock and keep a low profile. Maintain a respectful manner if you are approached.


Bolted sandstone, the main pillar has routes over 23 metres in length. The routes start in a small bay on the left.

Colour topo for The Farm
  1. Buzzy Bee Arête - Fr. 6a+ **
    The steep arête bounding the small bay.

  2. Showgirl - Fr. 6b
    The steep wall just L of the cheesy corner, into then exiting an awkward alcove.

  3. Red Mushroom Head of Wisdom - Fr. 6a
    Short wall belay below small tree.

  4. Finger Licking Good - Fr. 6b
    Climb up the small slab into the groove then step right to climb through the blocky section to excellent rock on the headwall with a spicy finish. Using tree stumps or roots as holds is forbidden and will upset the climbing gods which may result in you being smited!!!

  5. Full Moon Fingering - Fr. 6a+ *
    Climb the groove on the left and then continue up the face on rattly holds to solid rock on the headwall.

  6. Moonlight Licking - Fr. 6a+
    Follow the bolt line over the crack after climbing above the 4th bolt and continue up to hug the arête on the headwall. Find the hidden crack to make life easeir to clip the belay.

  7. Shake a Leg - Fr. 6a
    Direct line squeezed up the centre over a small overlap.

  8. The Tack Less Preacher - Fr. 5+
    A series of step ups to a shared lower chain.

  9. Load of Blocks - Fr. 5
    Scrappy route up the red rock.

  10. Nick's Unnamed - Fr. 5
    An entry pitch to the amphitheatre, leave the in situ rope alone for future development/access of The Ampitheatre.

Rectangular Wall

The following routes are on the short rectangular wall to the right

Colour topo for the Recangular Wall, The Farm
Rectangular Wall
  1. Saddle Sore - Fr. 5
    Take the left side of the wall and partly into the crack to the lower belay station.

  2. Fern Crack - VS,5a
    The obvious wide crack,narrowing towards the high belay. Clipping any nearby bolts will ensure eternal damnation.

  3. Spurred On - Fr. 5+ *
    The centre of the wall.

  4. Horse Sense - Fr. 5
    The arête to shared belay.

Entrance Arêtes

  1. Project

  2. Project
    Arête 2.

  3. Project
    Slabby wall.

Entry Walls

The short walls and arêtes adjacent to the grassy track leading into the quarry

  1. Flying Sheep - Fr. 5
    Side slab and steeper short section above to separate belay under sapling.

  2. Numb Nuts Fr 5+
    A steep approach leads to finalwall and shared belay on the R. Try to avoid copping out up the arete.

  3. Lambs to the Slaughter - Fr. 5+ *
    Rounded start then arête.

First Ascents

  1. Buzzy Bee Arête - Roy Thomas & Gandalf Aug 2023
  2. Showgirl - Roy Thomas & Nick O'Neill Aug 2023
  3. Red Mushroom Head of Wisdom -Gandalf Oct 2023
  4. Finger Licking Good - Gandalf, September 2023
  5. Full Moon Fingering - Gandalf Aug 2023
  6. Moonlight Licking - Gandalf
  7. Shake a Leg -Roy Thomas & Gandalf Sept 2023
  8. The Tack Less Preacher - Roy Thomas & Nick O'Neill Aug 2023
  9. Load of Blocks -Roy Thomas & W.Anker 2023
  10. Nicks Unnamed - Nick O'Neill & Roy Thomas Aug 2023

Rectangular Wall

  1. Saddle Sore - Roy Thomas & Gandalf Aug 2023
  2. Fern Crack -
  3. Spurred On - Roy Thomas & Gandalf Aug 2023
  4. Horse Sense - Roy Thomas & Gandalf Sept 2023

Entrance Arêtes

  1. Project -
  2. Project -
  3. Project -

Entry Walls

  1. Flying Sheep - Roy Thomas & Gandalf Oct 2023
  2. Numb Nuts - Rpy Thomas & Gandalf Oct 2023
  3. Lambs to the Slaughter - Roy Thomad & Gandalf Oct 2023