Gimp Cliff

Gimp Cliff
Gimp Cliff Winding Gear
Rock Type	Quarried Sandstone
Climbing Style	Sport
Approach Time
Area	Sandstone
Sub Area	Sandstone Eastern Valleys
Geodata
WGS-84 Location	51.744474, -3.2281989
OS Grid Ref.	SO 153 057
WGS-84 Parking Location
GR Parking Location
Base Elevation	354 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction
Aspect
Wind Sheltered
Climbing Type
Seepage
Crags Within 5.0 km
Abertysswg, Cwm, Gimp Cliff, New Tredegar

Bolting Policy

The more the merrier! Run-outs should not exceed 0.5m. New sports routes allowed.

Preamble

A new venue comprising a series of quarried sandstone arêtes located near Tredegar way out on the Eastern frontier. Also contains an impressive crack which would have made a good trad route had the quarry not been found by David Emanuel. The quarry looks to contain at least 15 routes.

The quarry's curious absence from Ordnance Survey maps probably accounts for the fact that it has thus far evaded attention but Google Earth exposes all.

Walk in is circa 15 minutes. The rock quality is excellent. South to east facing. Dries quickly. Suitable for submissives and lots of bouldering potential. A must for the SE Wales connoisseur who thinks they've done it all. Check out the remnants of the old tram way wind up wheel.

Life won't be complete until you go there. Go on be bold you know you want to do it.

Access

Location

NGR: 315300, 205800

Following the A4048 north to Tredegar one passes the village of Hollybush. Prior to reaching the turning for Bedwellty Pits, the Quarry is visible on the hill above Tredegar (i.e. on your left). At this point a layby lies on your right. Opposite the layby three gates cross a concrete track running up the mountain. A smaller path crosses a stream below a coal tip and the quarry lies above this.

Descent

All routes will have lower-offs/Shared lower-offs.

Routes

Dingle Twitch

The Cracks at Dingle Twitch

Two excellent cracks have been found in the left side of the quarry. Now safely bolted.

1. Chocolate Boner - Fr. 5
   An ascent of the short wall to join lower-off for adjacent crack. 3m.
   
   
2. Knights of the Velvet Bone Cave - Fr. 6a
   Or should that be Mud Cave? The undercut off-width, dusty (if dry) Muddy (if raining) 5m.
   
   
3. The Way of the Chocolate Fist - Fr. 6b
   A right of passage! Good route up the Zorro crack. 5m.
   
   
4. Project
   Arête to the right of the chocolate fist. Same L/O.
   
   
5. Project
   The lefthand leaning crack. Should be dry by 2045 if global warming continues at the current rate.
   
   
6. Project
   The righthand leaning crack. Same drainage issues!
   
   

Sad Clowns Arête Butt Stress

Sad Clowns Arête

1. Cartwheelian Geometry - Fr. 5
   Slab - top-out like a Victorian or arrange a long sling or buy another bolt. 6m.
   
   
2. Nearly Broken On The (w)Heel - Fr. 5+
   Slab - Top-out. Use a long sling if you want to bottom rope,then walk off easily. 7m.
   
   
3. Sad Clowns - Fr 6a+
   Up the right of the arête using the leaning wall. 9m.
   
   
4. Crimpin' at the Gimp - Fr7a+
   The virtually featureless leaning wall. One very hard move. Shared L.O. 9 m.
   
   

Ultimate Surrender Area

Ultimate Surrender Area

Continue around the hillside to the next bay with an obvious long arête.

1. Music is my Spider Cheese - Fr. 6a
   A short ascent of the small arête to the left of the main arête. 3m.
   
   
2. Project
   The grassy crack to the left of the arête - get digging.8m.
   
   
3. Ultimate Surrender Fr 6b+ *
   The loser takes it all. Ascend the arête with difficulty moving to the right at 2nd bolt. 9m.
   
   Further potential projects reside further right in the quarry.
   
   
4. Gimp Master - bound to be popular
5. Show some restraint - for lovers of cognitive therapy
6. Take it dry - well worth waiting for the right conditions or it could be a painful experience.

First Ascents

Dingle Twitch

1. R. Thomas G.Ashmore Aug 2012
   
2. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 06/07/12
   
3. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 06/07/12
   
4. Project -
   
5. Project -
   
6. Project - D. Emanuel
   

Sad Clowns Area

1. R. Thomas G.Ashmore Aug 2012
   
2. R. Thomas G.Ashmore Aug 2012
   
3. R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 24/07/2012
   
4. G. Percival 00/00/2014
5. Project
   

Ultimate Surrender Area

1. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 24/07/2012
2. Project - D. Emanuel
3. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 24/07/2012