Inn Crag
Inn Crag | |
Rock Type | Natural Sandstone |
---|---|
Climbing Style | Trad |
Approach Time | |
Area | Sandstone |
Sub Area | Sandstone Far Western Valleys |
Geodata | |
WGS-84 Location | 51.692652, -3.741261 |
OS Grid Ref. | SN 797 007 |
WGS-84 Parking Location | |
GR Parking Location | |
Base Elevation | 71 metres (SRTM Estimation) |
General Info | |
Faces Direction | South East |
Aspect | |
Wind Sheltered | |
Climbing Type | |
Seepage | |
Crags Within 5.0 km | |
Abercregan, Cilfrew Main Crag, Cilfrew Outlying Areas, Cilfrew Ravens Cliff, Inn Crag | |
Contents
BOLTING POLICY
Natural Sandstone.
No bolts, unless its quarried.
PREAMBLE
Scattered outcrops and boulders within the woodland near Rock and Fountain Inn, Aberdulais.
The rock is rough naturally weathered Pennant Sandstone.
Best in winter when the foliage dies back.
Climbs are split between predominantly cam protected leads, solos and boulder problems.
ACCESS
The crag lies in the woodland north-east of the Rock and Fountain Inn.
Burgerboss Buttress is roadside, approx 100m north of the pub.
DESCENTS
All routes have easy descents around the back of the outcrops.
THE ROUTES
BURGERBOSS BUTTRESS
Nice gritty rock, close to the road.
- Chillah Gorilla - HVS, 5a
Start at a large head height pocket , a few feet right of the jutting flake. Climb from the pocket into a left facing side pull flake , pull into a right facing side pull flake then up and right into a line of jugs to the top. 9 m. - Burgerboss - HS, 4b
Climb up and on top of the jutting flake then move left into crack to finish. 10 m.
MAIN CRAG
About 100m away, up onto more level ground and rightwards, is the top of the Main Crag. Clamber down the gully to the left side of Wimberry Buttress.
Honeycomb Buttress
- Roots Manuka - HVS, 5a
Start 1 foot right of left arête at ground level. Use pocket for left hand and flakes for right to climb into honeycomb pocketed wall leading into steep corner with hard move to gain ledge. 12 m. - A Man's Work - HVS, 5a/b *
The open corner in the centre of the buttress with a triangular roof at half height. 14 m.
Up and right, and right of the descent gully, is a shorter juggy slab.
Wimberry Slab
- Very Berry - Sev
Climb the left arête on excellent holds. 8m.
Yellow Lichen Slab
Further right is another similar slab with capping overhang
- Let Da Monkey Out - HS, 4b
Climb the centre of the slab starting with a flake and then climb through the capping roof. 9 m.
BOULDERS
Porthole Boulder
The first boulder encountered up and left of Roadside Buttress.
- Portholes - font ? **
The obvious portholes are excellent fun and slightly trickier than anticipated. -
- '
FIRST ASCENTS
BURGERBOSS BUTTRESS
- Chillah Gorilla - W Calvert - 23/02/2019
- Burgerboss - W Calvert - 23/02/2019
MAIN CRAG
Honeycomb Buttress
- Roots Manuka - W Calvert- 29/03/2019
- A Man's Work - A Rosier - 12/07/2019
Wimberry Slab
- Very Berry - W Calvert - 29/04/2019
Yellow Lichen Slab
- Let da Monkey Out - W Calvert - 06/04/2019
BOULDERS
Porthole Boulder