Ynysboeth

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Ynysboeth
( Craig-Y-Siomi )
Rock Type Quarried Sandstone
Climbing Style Trad
Approach Time 10 minutes
Area Sandstone
Sub Area Sandstone Central Valleys
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.659750, -3.336697
OS Grid Ref. ST 076 965
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.657975, -3.3304185
GR Parking Location ST 08068 96304
Parking Postcode CF46 5PG
Base Elevation 171 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction West
Aspect Sunny
Wind Sheltered Never
Climbing Type Normal
Midge Problem Moderate
Seepage Quick drying
Crags Within 5.0 km

Abercynon High Buttress, Cefnpennar, Mount Pleasant, Mount Pleasant (X2), Mountain Ash, Mountain Ash Natural Buttress, Mountain Ash West, Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd, Penrhiwceiber Quarry, Porth, The Gap, Upper Mountain Ash, Ynysboeth, Ynyshir Quarry, Ynysybwl Lady Windsor Quarry, Ynysybwl Upper Quarry


PREAMBLE

Possibly the most obscure crag on sandstone. The quarry that can easily be seen from the Abercynon to Aberdare road up on the hill behind the Gap proves a little disappointing if you are (un)lucky enough to find it. It does dry quickly and there is room for a couple more VSs and has the only graded jump in the area.

ACCESS

As for The Gap. Park or walk to the upper quarry and follow a vague track leading directly down from the Gap proper into the forest. Cross the fence, and go straight down through the trees following a direct unmarked line to come to a clearing after about 300m. Turn right, and proceed 100-200m to reach the quarry.

THE ROUTES

  1. Hallucinogenic Road Works - 9m, E2,6a
    The blunt arête on the left of the quarry, climbed on its right throughout, BR. No belay. Jump off right (J2).

  2. Stay At The Gap - 9m, VS,4c
    To the left is a narrow slab, located by the BB at the top. Start up a groove below this, then move left out on to the arête, skilfully avoiding the rocking block. Step right at the top, BB. Aptly named.

FIRST ASCENTS

  1. G. Ashmore, S. Coles - 30.03.1992
  2. G. Ashmore, S. Coles - 30.03.1992