Cwmcarn
From South Wales Climbing Wiki
| Cwmcarn | |
 Goi Ashmore enjoying Jiffy's Twitter Spat. | |
| Rock Type | Natural Sandstone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Sport/Trad |
| Approach Time | 5 minutes |
| Area | Sandstone |
| Sub Area | Sandstone Eastern Valleys |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.638413, -3.129065 |
| OS Grid Ref. | ST 219 938 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.636178, -3.1286195 |
| GR Parking Location | ST 219 936 |
| Parking Postcode | NP11 7EL |
| Base Elevation | 172 metres (SRTM Estimation) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | South |
| Aspect | Sunny |
| Wind Sheltered | Seldomly |
| Climbing Type | Normal |
| Midge Problem | Moderate |
| Seepage | Never |
| Crags Within 5.0 km | |
|
Blaen Bran Quarry, Cox's Quarry, Crosskeys Quarry, Cwmcarn, Fernlea Slabs - Risca, Henllys Quarry, Oakdale, Sirhowy - Quarry Mawr, Tyle y Coch | |
| Cwmcarn | |
| Sport Grades | |
| <= 6a+ | 13 |
| 6b - 6c+ | 12 |
| 7a - 7b | 0 |
Contents
PREAMBLE
A secluded south facing crag in a pleasant woodland setting.
A rejuvenated mixed 'Trad' and 'Sport' sandstone crag.
Routes up to 20m in length.
Many arêtes and corners.
A genuine Winter venue, because it faces south, gets any sunshine and does not seep.
ACCESS
From J28 of the M4, follow the A467 to Brynmawr/Forest Drive. Approx 1/2 mile after the Forest Dive roundabout exit (sculpture of mountain biker) take the right turn into Cwmcarn at the car wash / petrol filling station.
Follow the one way system to a 'Stop' cross roads junction, go straight across and at the crest of the rise take a left into Tribute Avenue and park considerately. Follow the footpath on the left between some tin garages and into the woods via a very steep and narrow path, which leads to the crag.
THE ROUTES
The first routes start in a square cut bay on the left hand wing of the crag.
- Endosperm - Fr. 5a
The far slab is a snip at this grade. Will improve with traffic. 12m - Jiffy's Twitter Spat - Fr. 6a+
Short wall left of the crack. 10m - The Luddite - HVS, 5b
The crack is blessed with a peg and bolted lower off. 11m
The crag now gains its full height in a series of sharp corners and arêtes. - Archaeopteryx - Fr. 6a *
The corner and overhung flaky bulge sharing the belay of the adjacent route. - Terrordactyl - Fr. 6a+ **
The first big arête, started up cracks on its left. Move up the corner off a ledge and around onto the left side of the bulging arête. L.O. 22 m - The Phill - Fr. 6b+
A tall face, keeping left of the corner and close to the arête. Still a little brittle in places and needs a safer lower off (best leave alone for time being until the first ascentionist or another benefactor installs a slightly lower belay). 20m - Pig in a Cage - Fr. 5a
The second corner from the left. High S.S. L.O. rings. 22m
- Tweaking Lats - Fr. 6a *
The middle arête. Deviation to the left drops the grade to Fr 5c. Strict adherence to the arête warrants Fr.6a and requires a big span. 18m - Feeling Totally Hacked Off! - Fr. 6a
The bolted corner. Out of a storm of dust and midges was born this future classic of the genre. BB. 16m - Where There’s A Killer - E3, 5c
A serious route. Take the third arête, left of the words ‘Killer Will’. Go up a short rib to a ledge and continue up the right-hand side of the main arête to pull on a sapling and gain a small ledge. Continue until it is possible to move left into a corner to finish or use BB of next route. 18m - Clint Yeastwood - Sev, 4a
The corner. Passing threaded chock and stumps. BB. 16m
The next routes take the promontory in the center of the crag. - Face The Rap - E2, 5c
Climb the left-hand arête of the promontory, PR, studiously avoiding the pillar on the right. Single BB. 18m - Take the Rap for Beating the Crap - Fr. 6b **
An independent line up L side of promontory pillar then the wall above left of the faint crack to ring belay. 18m.R.Thomas ,N.O'Neill 08/05/2016 - Rap Crap - E3, 5c
Start in the centre of the face at the initials ‘MC’. Clamber up ledges to gain some cracks which are followed to a ledge and a long span up the final headwall. 18m - Nick's Line - Fr. 6a+ / 6b+ *
The groove on the right side of the central promontory, left of Yeast from the Undergrowth. Move right to the arête at half (6b+) or three quarters height (6a+). 16 m
The following climbs start from an elevated ledge system which is easily accessed from the left.
- The Yeast from the Undergrowth - XS
The stump filled gully, left of the Eyeful Tower. Once, protection and holds were predominantly of the 'woody' variety, now you have to make do with loose rock and mud. 20m - Eyeful Tower - Fr. 6b+ *
The tall central tower, starting off ledges. 15m - Polyphemus - Fr. 6c *
The tower to the right of the tottering cyclopean blocks. Fortunately, small holds lead you rightwards, away from the looseness. Nose to the bolts my beauties. 14m - Squeaking Bats - E1, 5b
Follow the slim corner, past a sapling, to a BB. 11m - Red With Rage - E3, 5c
Climb the wall right of Squeaking Bats past two horizontal slots to reach a long layback edge. Follow this until jugs lead to a (sort of) BB. Using the large ledge on the right is strictly for cheats and will result in exile to Penrhiwceiber. 11m
The routes are now started from ground level, in the pit.
- Crimson - Fr. 6c *
Left of Yellow Tower is a line of bolts with a distinct large ledge at half height tagged by 'Martin Price'. 15m - Auf Wiedersehen Mate - Fr. 6b
The twin cracks left of the corner. L.O. shared with previous route. 15m - Pus in my Boots - Fr. 6a *
Start up the Yellow Tower and drift onto the left side of the arête. 12m - Yellow Tower - Fr. 6b+
The fairly obvious tower, graffitied 'MC' and with a distinct spill of yellow paint. Wait for a new bolt to be placed to make moves off the ledge safe. 12m - Like It Then Lump It - Fr. 6b+ *
The high square cut groove. 16m - Sour Grapes - Fr. 5+
The green arête. Much better and harder starting to the right of the bolts (Fr. 6a). 16m - Cwmcarnage - Fr. 6b *
The green cracks are ace. Lower off Sour Grapes. 16m - Project
The steep green corner.
On the dark side of the pit is a highball boulder problem. - Afterlife - V5+
Highball! Solo the small, blank wall facing the Main Wall. A one move wonder, a big dyno at a fair height. Great fun though and very nerve wracking if you have no mats! 6m
Above the right side of the pit is a shorter wall above half height. - The Willy Whacker Project
The green corner, lifting the skirt of hanging brambles revealed the moist delights of this crevice. Open to all, hurry now to bag the first ascent of this oozing crack before it's defiled by the drill. Traditionalists could top out or adopt the quaint 1980's fashion for lowering off the ab rope. 16m - The Terrace Gardener - Fr. 6a+
From the left side of the terrace a tricky start up the cracks leads to a tree and bolt belay - Bramble Pitt Gets Hammered - Fr. 6a+
Use a low slot to make a long reach for the good rail.Continue steeply over the small roof. - Corneal Abrasion - Fr. 6b
To the left of the blocky roof. Could bring tears to your eyes if you don't stick clip the tricky start. Alternatively buy a bolt and put it in the lower hole. 8m - Stumbling Block - Fr. 6a+
Has defied the efforts of a crowbar but make your own decisions if you go ahead with it. You won't be capable of "running to me complaining" if it all goes pear shaped.It seems obvious but belay over to the left - Lisa Likes 67 - Fr. 6b
To the R of the jammed block roof on the top tier. 8m - Drop Knee at 67? - Fr. 6b *
The excellent square roof/chimney succumbs to flexible leg techniques.The lower off karabiner and sling have been stolen so use your own or wait for replacement. 8m
First Ascents
- Nick O'Neill R.Thomas 29.07.2016
- A.Rosier, M.Wright 20.05.2016
- A.Rosier, R.Thomas 04.05.2016
- R.Thomas G.Ashmore 05.01.2017
- A.Rosier, R.McAllister 26.07.2016
- M.Wright, A.Rosier 20.05.2016
- A.Rosier, R.McAllister 12.05.2016
- R.Thomas, M.Wright 06.05.2016
- R.Thomas, A.Rosier 25.05.2016
- M.Crocker 27.12.1990
- A.Rosier, A.J.Rosier, C.Wyatt 04.06.2016
CENTRAL PROMONTORY - M.Crocker 27.12.1990
- R.Thomas, N.O'Neill 08.05.2016
- M.Crocker 27.12.1990
- N.O'Neill, R.Thomas 08.05.2016
RIGHT HAND WING - A.Rosier 00.00.1996
- A.Rosier, R.Thomas 04.05.2016
- A.Rosier, R.McAllister 12.05.2016
- M.Crocker 27.12.1990
- M.Crocker 27.12.1990
- M.Wright, R.Thomas 05.05.2016
- A.Rosier, R.McAllister 26.07.2016
- R.Thomas, M.Wright, R.McAllister 17.05.2016
- M.Wright 05.05.2016
- R.Thomas, M.Wright 23.05.2016
- A.Rosier, R.Thomas 25.05.2016
- A.Rosier, R.Thomas 25.05.2016 (Right hand variant 05.06.2016)
- Project
- M.Wright 05.04.2016
UPPER TERRACE. - Project open
- R.Thomas, M.Wright 16.05.2016
- R.Thomas, M.Wright 16.05.2016
- R.Thomas, M.Wright 04.05.2016
- R.Thomas, E.T. Jones 17.07.2016
- R.Thomas, M.Wright, A.Rosier 03.05.2016
- R.Thomas, M.Wright 06.05.2016
