Trebanog

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Trebanog
Trebanog title.jpg
Rock Type Quarried Sandstone
Climbing Style Trad/Sport
Approach Time 1 minutes
Area Sandstone
Sub Area Sandstone Western Valleys
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.601966, -3.425766
OS Grid Ref. ST 013 901
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.601379, -3.424823
GR Parking Location ST 014 901
Parking Postcode CF39 9YS
Base Elevation 198 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction South
Aspect Sunny
Wind Sheltered Never
Climbing Type Normal
Midge Problem Mild
Seepage Never
Crags Within 5.0 km

Brittania Quarry, Clydach Vale Bogmonster Quarry, Clydach Vale Cambrian Quarry, Coed Ely, Dan Dicks, Edmonston Quarry and Edge, Gelli, Glynfach, Llwynypia, Pontygwaith Quarry, Porth, Punk Rocks, The Farm, Trebanog, Trehafod, Turberville Road Quarry, Ynyshir Quarry, Ynyshir West, Ynysybwl Lady Windsor Quarry


BOLTING POLICY

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionists permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.

PREAMBLE

A good, pretty solid, low seapage crag, with a sunny aspect,close proximity to the road and many routes in the lower grades give it instant appeal. Unfortunately there is a lot of broken glass at the bottom of the crag and visits with dogs and small children are probably not wise for this reason. There are concrete fence posts to belay from at the top of the crag but there are a few gaps.The scaffold pole replacements have largely been stolen by the locals.

Autumn 2023 has seen a renaissance of the the crag, regearing of the existing "sport test pieces" and addition of several more moderate ones. All this adds up to a premier venue for those venturing outdoors to try out their trad and/or sport skills.

ACCESS

Take the A4233 to Trebanog, taking the Tonypandy turn off at the traffic lights in the centre of the village. the crag is 200m down the road on the right hand side. If on foot buses run up from Porth.Usually plenty of parking space opposite the crag in Trebanog Club carpark.

DESCENTS

It is easy and obvious to walk around either end of the crag.

THE ROUTES

Left Hand End

At the left hand end of the crag is a sharp left hand arête.

  1. Howell's Arête - HVS, 5a
    If de-vegetated, the arête at the extreme left hand end of the crag is climbed on it's left. 6m

  2. Howell's Arête Right - HVS,5c
    A good extended boulder problem up the arête on it's right hand side. 6m

  3. Pete's Boulder Problem - E2, 6b/c
    The brushed wall to the right of the arête. 6m

  4. Loose Stuff - VS, 4b
    The vague line of slightly broken cracks at the right hand side of the sheet of solid rock. Poor. 6m

  5. To The Left - VS, 4b
    Another poor line slightly to the right. 6m

Bolted Overhanging Wall

Click to Expand.
  1. One Upmanship - E1, 5c
    On the left hand side of the wall are some thin cracks. Climb them with more difficulty than might be expected! 6m

  2. March of Progress - Fr. 7a+ *
    The blankest section of rock left of the central hairline crack is gained directly and climbed with a hard crux. Using holds in For Your Hands Only reduces the grade. 12m

  3. For Your Hands Only - Fr. 6c *
    The central crack line. 12m

  4. Banog's Barmy Army - Fr. 7a *
    Straightened out since the first ascent. Start right of For Your Hands Only. BB. 12m

  5. Grab Some Tree And Follow Me - Fr. 7a
    Start at the line of bolts just to the left of the corner of 'Aunty Pasty'. By avoiding bridging the corner, climb to a break, crux, then pull up to an overlap with a possible rest. Pull left over this, then make a committing stretch for a poor jug. Finish direct to the BB. 12m

  6. Aunty Pasty - HVS, 4c
    The unlovely corner to the right. 12m

  7. Unnamed #1 - E1, 5a
    The wide crack and Hobbit Hole just to the right of the corner(missing PR). 12m

  8. On Yer Bike Turbo Ti*s - Fr. 6a **
    Compelling climbing and truly visionary name up the leaning wall L of arête and high roofs. No stepping across left or ledges on R at this grade. Staple and ring lower-off.

Main Area

Click to Expand.
  1. Air Play - VS, 4b *
    The arête to the right and the crack directly above. 12m

  2. Playing Away - VS, 4c
    The wall immediately to the right and the overhanging headwall above the ledge. Very soft for the given grade. 12m

  3. Bushbaby - HS, 4a
    Climb the left side of the groove, up the wall to a tricky finish above the ledge. 12m

  4. Skull Orchard - HS,4c
    Climb the wall on the right to a sloping ledge, finish up the straight forward cracks above. 12m

  5. Twenty B&H And A Packet Of Rizlas Please - HVS, 5a
    The centre of the buttress to the right. 11m

  6. Simon's Crack - S
    The crack to the right. 12m

  7. S.S.R - D
    The chimney. 11m

  8. Jaffa Buttress - HVS, 5a *
    The centre of the buttress to the right. 9m

  9. Terry's Crack - VS, 5a *
    The overhanging crack to the right. 9m

  10. Heatherette - VS, 5a
    The bounding right hand arête of Terry's Crack provides a couple of almost independent moves. 9m

  11. Hurley's Burly Arete Fr 6a+
    The arête and ivy patch left of Howell's Horror. No bridging to the slab on right or scuttling left at this grade.

  12. Howell's Horror -VD
    Better than it sounds. Boulder up the groove to finish more easily up the corner above. Take care with the rock at the top. 9m

  13. Tankard - VS, 5a
    The crack to the right of the corner. 9m

  14. The Blaggard's Wet Pocket - Fr. 6a *
    The arête and wall L of the shallow corner. Straying off-piste strictly forbidden be sure to use the pocket. New double-ring lower-off on the left of the top blocky pinnacle. It's your decision to either use it or top out and belay on posts.

  15. Blagdon - VS, 4c
    The shallow corner bounding the left hand side of the obvious Flat Wall. Needs a bit of digging out. Erroneously called Hammer on UKC logs but that is the name of the first ascentionist. 11m.

Click to Expand.

Flat Wall

  1. Firewater - Fr. 6b *
    A popular route up the left hand side of the blank wall. Rebolted with lower off Nov 2023. 11m

  2. Hair Of The Dog - Fr. 6c+ *
    Climb direct up from the sentry box on the Flat Wall. Refurbished Nov 2023. 11m

  3. Pete of Lancs - Fr. 6c *
    Direct line between Ethanol and Hair of the Dog New bolts nov 2023.

  4. Ethanol - Fr. 6b+
    Follow a line of flakes anticlockwise to the shared lower off 11m.
    Originally climbed by John Harwood at E3,5c. "Climb easily at first to the overlap, pull up and slightly R. to continue just left of the arête. (The bolts on Pete of Lancs, should not be clipped."[1] Finish direct instead of at the lower-off of Hair of the Dog.

  5. Unnamed #2 - ?
    The cracks to the right are poorly protected with a long reach to suspect holds. Never VS,4c as suggested. The crux nut placement bust out at the top. (insert standard guidebook disclaimer). 11m

  6. WPC - Fr. 6a *
    To the R of the thin cracks with a long reach for some to the top break.

  7. Jilly Wizz - Fr. 4+ **
    Head up to the short roof and left side of the arete above.A must for the aspirant sport climber's first outdoor lead.

    To the right of the Flat Wall and as far as the nose (Ledge Climb) where the crag starts to double back towards the Black Chimney Area are a number of short routes:

    Click to Expand.


  8. Barlamb Abuse - D
    The first groove to the right of the Flat Wall. 9m

  9. Shteep - VD
    The cracked arête separating Barlamb Abuse from Gambolling Groove. 11m

  10. Gambolling Groove - M
    The second groove. 11m

  11. Vaughan - S
    The vague blunt arête 6m to the right, starting on the left and traversing across to the right and a tricky finishing move. 11m

  12. Even Cheesier Than Barrow In Furness Bus Depot - VS, 4c *
    To the right of Vaughan, climb the slab and the bulging wall directly above it. 11m

  13. Even Sleazier Than Barrow In Furness Bus Depot - HVS, 5a/b
    The slab to the right, then step right onto the prominent horizontal platform. Stretch up and make fingery moves past a slot to finish. 11m

  14. Ledge Climb - S 4a
    To the right is the arête bounding the area. Go for it, starting up the wall on the left. 12m

Big Black Chimney Area

  1. Sunday Swing - VS, 4c *
    Climb the wall just right of the arête of L edge Climb to a horizontal break. Traverse right to an enjoyable swing right up to a good crack above the apex of the chimney. Using the start of the next route is a better option with no change in grade. 12m

  2. Out With The Boys - VS, 4c
    Climb the thin crack in the left wall of the chimney just where the soot starts. At the juggy break swing slightly left and finish direct on big greasy holds. 11m

  3. Fire Down Below - E2, 5a
    Bridge up the extremely dirty chimney, until a handrail of loose jugs leads left to the finish of the last route. Apart from being a filthy bag, the chimney doubles as inpromptu poo spot and second hand garden furniture depository. 14m

  4. Kiwis Can't Fly - E1, 5c
    The thin crack in the right hand wall of the chimney finishing up the right hand crack of Sunday Swing. Another poor route. 12m

  5. I Spy Arête - HS, 4a *
    At last a worthwhile route! The arête to the right of the chimney. 11m

    Click to Expand.
  6. I Spy Direct E1, 5b
    The wall to the right. Gain the ledge from the right, finish up the headwall with a couple of good pulls. 9m

  7. High And Dry - HVS, 5a
    The crack line just right. 10m

  8. Eastend Groove - HS, 4a
    The crack in the left wall of the bay to the right. 9m

  9. Blood - E1, 5b
    An extremely contrived route up the wall between Eastend Groove and Mick's Little Viper, avoiding gear and holds on either routes. 9m

  10. Mick's Little Viper - HVS, 5a *
    The clean finger crack in the centre of the wall eats gear. 9m

  11. Eastend Crack - HS, 4a
    The next slightly vegetated crack to the right. 9m

  12. Desperate Arête - S *
    The arête to the right is very good. 9m

    To the right is another bay:

  13. Decent Route - D
    The cracks in the left wall of the bay, coming in from the corner on the right. A direct start goes at S. 9m

  14. Hard Death Rain Down - HS, 4b
    The wall and overhang to the right of Decent Route. 9m

  15. Unknown Corner - VD
    The right-hand corner of the wall has a steep finish. 9m

  16. Jo - VS, 4c *
    In the right wall of the bay and the left of the arête is a curving crack which is followed until it is possible to pull out left into a scoop. Continue up the headwall via a protruding block. Good stuff. 9m

  17. Last Arête - HS, 4c *
    Obvious by name, an excellent little climb. 9m

  18. Penultimate - HVS, 4c
    The crumbly wall right of the last arête. Bold with fragile holds. 9m

  19. Unknowns Stiff Little Pinky Fr 5c
    Loose rattly flakes. Will improve with traffic and if top bolt replaced. Single bolt lower off.

  20. My Little Pinky - Fr. 5
    Rattle up the wall L of pink paint splash.

  21. Stink Pink - Fr. 5+
    Wall slightly R of pink paint.

First Ascents

Left Hand End

  1. Howell's Arête - T.Howell 00.00.1988
  2. Howell's Arête Right - T.Howell 00.00.1988
  3. Pete's Boulder Problem - P.Lewis 00.00.1995
  4. Loose Stuff - Unknown Pre-1990
  5. To The Left - Unknown Pre-1990

Overhanging Wall

  1. One Upmanship - M.Learoyd, C.Nash, G.Lewis 00.00.1998
  2. March of Progress - A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990
  3. For Your Hands Only - A.Sharp 00.00.1984
  4. Banog's Barmy Army - A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990
  5. Grab Some Tree And Follow Me - A.Sharp 00.00.1991
  6. Aunty Pasty - G.Lewis, H.Griffiths 00.00.1990
  7. Unnamed #1 - J.Harwood 17.03.1990
  8. Turbo Tits-Roy Thomas Gandalf W.Anker 2023


Main Area

  1. Air Play - G.Lewis, H.Griffiths 00.00.1988
  2. Playing Away - H.Griffiths, SWMC 00.00.1988
  3. Bushbaby - Unknown Pre-1990
  4. Skull Orchard - R.Lawrence, S.Coles 12.07.1992
  5. Twenty B&H And A Packet Of Rizlas Please - S.Coles, R.Lawrence 06.12.1991
  6. Simon's Crack - Unknown Pre-1990
  7. S.S.R - C.Shorrock 24.02.1992
  8. Jaffa Buttress - H.Griffiths, G.Lewis, 00.00.1988
  9. Terry's Crack - T.Howell 00.00.1988
  10. Heatherette - C.Shorrock, T.Darlow 26.11.1994
  11. Hurley's Burly - Roy Thomas Dec 2023
  12. Howell's Horror - T.Howell 00.00.1988
  13. Tankard - C.Shorrock, J.Whitford 24.02.1992
  14. The Blaggard's Wet Pocket- Roy Thomas Aaron Martin nov 2023
  15. Blagdon - P.Hamer, R.Smith 00.00.1984

Flat Wall

  1. Firewater - A.Sharp, R.Smith 00.00.1984
  2. Hair Of The Dog - A.Sharp 00.00.1983
  3. Pete of Lancs - G.Davis 2017
  4. Ethanol - J.Harwood 26.03.1990
  5. Unnamed #2 - Unknown Pre-1990
  6. WPC-Roy Thomas Aaron Martin Nov 25 2023
  7. Jilly Wizz- Roy Thomas Aaron Martin Nov 2023
  8. Barlamb Abuse - Unknown Pre-1990
  9. Shteep - C.Shorock, J.Whitford 24.02.1992
  10. Gambolling Groove - C.Shorock 02.01.1994
  11. Vaughan - A.Eggleton, C.Shorock 02.01.1994
  12. Even Cheesier Than Barrow In Furness Bus Depot - C.Shorock, M.Chapman 05.11.1994
  13. Even Sleazier Than Barrow In Furness Bus Depot - G.Ashmore 26.04.1998
  14. Ledge Climb - Unknown Pre-1990

Big Black Chimney Area

  1. Sunday Swing - G.Lewis 00.00.1988
  2. Out With The Boys - L.Foulkes, G.Lewis, M.Learoyd 00.00.1988
  3. Fire Down Below - G.Lewis, T.Howell, H.Griffiths 00.00.1988
  4. Kiwis Can't Fly - L.Foulkes, M.Learoyd, C.Nash 00.00.1988
  5. I Spy Arête - M.Learoyd, SWMC 00.00.1988
  6. I Spy Direct - M.Learoyd, SWMC 00.00.1988
  7. High And Dry - J.Harwood, R.high 17.11.1996
  8. Eastend Groove - H.Griffiths 00.00.1988
  9. Blood - T.Darlow 00.00.1988
  10. Mick's Little Viper - M.Learoyd 00.00.1988
  11. Eastend Crack - Unknown Pre-1990
  12. Desperate Arête - Unknown Pre-1990
  13. Decent Route - Unknown Pre-1990
  14. Hard Death Rain Down - C.Shorrock, M.Chapman 05.10.1994
  15. Unknown Corner - Unknown
  16. Jo - C.Shorrock, A.Eggleton 02.01.1994
  17. Last Arête - Unknown Pre-1990
  18. Penultimate - G.Williams, J.Harwood 26.09.2002
  19. stiff pinky- Su Kin Hiscox 2024
  20. My Little Pinky -Mike Hock Ben Dover 2024
  21. Pink Stink - Su Kin & Holden Hiscox 2024"

Additional Photos

  • Last Arête, Trebanog. Photo by Oli Buxton

  • Olli Burrows on Last Arete - HS

Videos

Aaron on Banog's Barmy Army
Simon on Banog's Barmy Army

Notes

  1. ↑ Letter from John Harwood to Tim Hoddy (6th Sept. 2010)
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