New Tredegar
| New Tredegar | |
| ( New Tredegar Roadside Crag ) | |
 | |
| Rock Type | Quarried Sandstone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Sport |
| Approach Time | 5 minutes |
| Area | Sandstone |
| Sub Area | Sandstone Eastern Valleys |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.705168, -3.221367 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SO 156 014 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.707108,-3.222729 |
| GR Parking Location | SO 15608 01638 |
| Parking Postcode | CF81 9 |
| Base Elevation | 235 metres (SRTM Estimation) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | South West |
| Aspect | Sunny |
| Wind Sheltered | Seldomly |
| Climbing Type | Normal |
| Midge Problem | Mild |
| Seepage | Needs a short dry spell |
| Crags Within 5.0 km | |
|
Abertysswg, Bargoed, Cwm, Deri, Gimp Cliff, New Tredegar, Oakdale | |
| BMC RAD | |
| RAD Notice/Restriction | New Tredegar@BMC RAD |
Contents
BOLTING POLICY
As many as possible.
PREAMBLE
A recently developed sandstone sport crag situated on the outskirts of New Tredegar. The quarry is adjacent to the road running parallel to the one descending from Aberbargoed. Park at the bottom where the road is wider then walk 5 mins uphill. to the "Quarry" sign.
There are about a dozen climbs. Sun from 11am and seepage does not seem evident.
All the makings of a winter circuit venue. The routes are very recent, the lower sections were very ledgy involving lots of cleaning so please don't whinge about dust. It will blow off eventually, take a brush and let the second give them a sweep when lowering. It would be nice if everyone peeled a little turf off on descent.
Restrictions apply from 1 April - 31 July.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rare protected nesting birds are reported nesting on the Back Wall. Please refrain from climbing any of the routes on the Back Wall until the birds have fledged, likely to be end of July. It is a criminal offence to disturb these birds while they are nesting.
ACCESS
Follow the A4049 north, out of Aberbargoed. Take the first right onto Upper Road (approx 1 mile) and after 100 yards take the next right. Park considerately before the road becomes single lane and walk 100 yards to the quarry entrance is on your left.
DESCENTS
THE ROUTES
Sidewall
- Dog Leg Crack - VS, 5a
Awkward jams lead to a bolted LO. - Bryophytes Choked My Crack - VS, 4c
Crack to right, shared LO on left. - Forbidden Crack HS, 4b
Project, earth filled crack. Probably stolen by young un ignorant of the meaning of "PROJECT". Name known but not disclosed to avoid shame. Pick some bilberries on the way as the cleaning job was sub optimal. LO on R. - Whippersnappers Fr. 6b+
Wall R again, cracks on L or R out of bounds for this grade.
Backwall
- Taken To The Cleaners - Fr. 5
Ledgy climbing after a steep start. - Clean Sweep - Fr. 5+
Tricky start leads to final blunt rib, avoid using the "fang". - Cleaned Out Fr 6a
Slab to the right. belay above overlap. - Clean Me Up Scotty - Fr. 5+
Groove right of roof. Hidden belay at top of groove. 14m - Spanish Eyes - Fr. 6a+
Just right of groove, crux bulge. Belays to the left. 14m
New Tredegar - Back Wall - Eager Beaver - Fr. 6b
Be aware of penultimate bolt in hollow rock. Fingery finale. 14m. - Account Holder - Fr. 6b+
Don't pull outwards on a big rectangular block by the second bolt. Hard finishing move on crusty rock. 14m - Tread Careful - Fr. 6b
Ignore clipping first bolt. Slab, nasty mantle, blunt rib, groove. 15m - Tread Eager - Fr. 6b
Flake, thin crack. 18m - In Heaven She Walks - Fr. 6a *
Best route on slab. Pass smelly owl hole en-route. 18m - Tread Foot - Fr. 6a+ *
Left hand line from grassy bay. Good rock to tricky rock-up. 10m - Tread Soft - Fr. 6b+
Right hand line on the slab, more sustained, hard finish. 10m - Slimline - Fr. 4
Short arête. 10m
FIRST ASCENTS
Sidewall
- R.Thomas, G.Gibson 00.04.2017
- R.Thomas, 00.04.2017
- A cad and a bounder project thief 2017
- R.Thomas, G.Ashmore 31.05.2017
Backwall
- R.Thomas, G.Gibson 00.04.2017
- R.Thomas, G.Gibson 00.04.2017
- R.Thomas, G.Ashmore 31.05.2017
- G.Gibson, R.Thomas 00.04.2017
- "
- "
- gg rt as all above 2017
