|Rock Type||Quarried Sandstone|
|Approach Time||25 minutes|
|Sub Area||Sandstone Far Western Valleys|
|WGS-84 Location||51.695131, -3.914317|
|OS Grid Ref.||SN 67776 01332|
|WGS-84 Parking Location||51.70494, 3.910531|
|GR Parking Location||SN 68081 02414|
|Parking Postcode||SA6 5RH|
|Base Elevation||190 metres (OS Estimation)|
|Faces Direction||South East|
|Crags Within 5.0 km.|
A small crag overlooking Clydach and the lower Swansea Valley.
This crag is situated on land designated as an Urban Common.
Park up on Mountain Road in Craig Cefn Parc, follow the road uphill until it becomes a track the other side of a gate. Continue uphill on this track, forking left to reach the trig point, to find a small quarry on the other side. Drop down the left side of the hill from here, just past some old stakes, to reach the crag. (20 min scenic ramble with 10 draws and one rope)
The base of the crag can also be reached by taking the left 200m past the mobile tower and following this path, but the crag is hidden and the turn off hard to spot, so not easy on your first visit.
- Knee Knaw - Fr. 6a+
Head up the left side of the prow to the ledge, step left, then climb up to and reach through the overhang. 13 m
- Abbot & Costello Meet the Monster - Fr. 6b+*
Pull onto the ledge from the right then follow the crack up the wall. 13 m
- Dog Eat Dog - Fr. 6b** 🤣
The gruesome looking chimney crack, mostly avoided by bridging,layaways and if you know how jams.Belay on the left of the narrow pillar.
- Keep The Cat In The Bag - Fr. 6a+ *
The bolted line through the roof to shared L.O of Surprise Attack.
- Surprise Attack - Fr. 6a+ *
Gain the ledge, pull though the bulge and finish up the head wall. 13 m
- Borrowed Thyme - Fr. 5+
The slab and left wall to the tree. 13 m
- Cwmdwr Corner - Fr. 5
Climb the arête on surprisingly good holds. 13 m
- Squtternut Bosh - Fr. 5+
Direct around the bulge and up the arête. 11 m
- Firestarter - F6a
Up the arête on good, spaced holds, then traverse right to the shared lower-off. 11 m
- Chomping at the Bit - F5
Start up past the small oak. Bridge up the slab past the cheezy rock. 8 m
- Knee Knaw - FA Matt Woodfield August 2021
- Abbot & Costello Meet the Monster - FA Billy Daniels 1997 (bolted 2021)
- Dog Eat Dog - Roy Thomas Han Djobi & W.Anking Aug 2021
- Keep The Cat In The Bag - Roy Thomas Tess Tickle & Huw Janus Aug 2021
- Surprise Attack - FA Matt Woodfield July 2021
- Borrowed Thyme - FA ...
- Cwmdwr Corner - Luke Ashton July 2021
- Squtternut Bosh - Luke Ashton August2021
- Firestarter - Steffan Jacob & Matt Woodfield Sept 2022
- Chomping at the Bit - Matt Woodfield & Steffan Jacob Sept 2022