Gelliwastad

From South Wales Climbing Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search
Gelliwastad
CragShot gelliwastad.jpg
Rock Type Quarried Sandstone
Climbing Style Sport
Approach Time 25 minutes
Area Sandstone
Sub Area Sandstone Far Western Valleys
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.695131, -3.914317
OS Grid Ref. SN 67776 01332
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.70494, 3.910531
GR Parking Location SN 68081 02414
Parking Postcode SA6 5RH
Base Elevation 190 metres (OS Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction South East
Aspect Partially Sunny
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type Normal
Seepage Quick drying
Crags Within 5.0 km

Craig Alltacham, Craig Cwm, Craig y Pal-Glais, Drumau Road, Gelliwastad, Graigola, Neath Abbey Quarry



PREAMBLE

A small crag overlooking Clydach and the lower Swansea Valley.

This crag is situated on land designated as an Urban Common.

ACCESS

Park up on Mountain Road in Craig Cefn Parc, follow the road uphill until it becomes a track the other side of a gate. Continue uphill on this track, forking left to reach the trig point, to find a small quarry on the other side. Drop down the left side of the hill from here, just past some old stakes, to reach the crag. (20 min scenic ramble with 10 draws and one rope)

The base of the crag can also be reached by taking the left 200m past the mobile tower and following this path, but the crag is hidden and the turn off hard to spot, so not easy on your first visit.

THE ROUTES

  1. Knee Knaw - Fr. 6a+
    Head up the left side of the prow to the ledge, step left, then climb up to and reach through the overhang. 13 m

  2. Abbot & Costello Meet the Monster - Fr. 6b+*
    Pull onto the ledge from the right then follow the crack up the wall. 13 m

  3. Dog Eat Dog - Fr. 6b** 🤣
    The gruesome looking chimney crack, mostly avoided by bridging,layaways and if you know how jams.Belay on the left of the narrow pillar.

  4. Keep The Cat In The Bag - Fr. 6a+ *
    The bolted line through the roof to shared L.O of Surprise Attack.

  5. Surprise Attack - Fr. 6a+ *
    Gain the ledge, pull though the bulge and finish up the head wall. 13 m

  6. Borrowed Thyme - Fr. 5+
    The slab and left wall to the tree. 13 m

  7. Cwmdwr Corner - Fr. 5
    Climb the arête on surprisingly good holds. 13 m

  8. Squtternut Bosh - Fr. 5+
    Direct around the bulge and up the arête. 11 m

  9. Firestarter - F6a
    Up the arête on good, spaced holds, then traverse right to the shared lower-off. 11 m

  10. Chomping at the Bit - F5
    Start up past the small oak. Bridge up the slab past the cheezy rock. 8 m

First Ascents

  1. Knee Knaw - FA Matt Woodfield August 2021
  2. Abbot & Costello Meet the Monster - FA Billy Daniels 1997 (bolted 2021)
  3. Dog Eat Dog - Roy Thomas Han Djobi & W.Anking Aug 2021
  4. Keep The Cat In The Bag - Roy Thomas Tess Tickle & Huw Janus Aug 2021
  5. Surprise Attack - FA Matt Woodfield July 2021
  6. Borrowed Thyme - FA ...
  7. Cwmdwr Corner - Luke Ashton July 2021
  8. Squtternut Bosh - Luke Ashton August2021
  9. Firestarter - Steffan Jacob & Matt Woodfield Sept 2022
  10. Chomping at the Bit - Matt Woodfield & Steffan Jacob Sept 2022

ADDITIONAL PHOTOS

Notes