Dunvant Quarry
| Dunvant Quarry | |
| ( Jones’ Quarry ) | |
 The dark NW Wall | |
| Rock Type | Quarried Sandstone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Undeveloped |
| Approach Time | 5 minutes |
| Area | Gower |
| Sub Area | North Gower |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.627780, -4.029495 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SS 596 940 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.625503, -4.031666 |
| GR Parking Location | SS 594 938 |
| Parking Postcode | SA2 7TB |
| Base Elevation | 73 metres (SRTM Estimation) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | Various |
| Aspect | Rarely Sunny |
| Wind Sheltered | |
| Climbing Type | |
| Seepage | |
| Crags Within 400m | |
Contents
BOLTING POLICY
It's a long-disused quarry.
PREAMBLE
This sizeable old quarry is divided into two sections separated by a now bricked-up tunnel.[1]. There is a relatively clean SW-facing slab, a long overgrown SE face and a small NW-facing square buttress.
It's a pity that this quarry wasn't "discovered" 30 years ago as climbs on the (now overgrown) SE-facing slab/wall would be long.
There is possibly a bouldering problem—or two.
Extremely overgrown in places, a lot of it is shaded by trees and it would take a lot of work, much of it with a chainsaw, to salvage the better routes.
However, were the land-owner agreeable and there was also enough local commitment to clean the place up, its proximity to the Dunvant Cycle Path means that this place could be turned into a modest little climbing spot for locals and non-locals. Local councils do this sort of thing thing in France, Italy, etc., why not here?
Apparently, the sandstone for the Slip Bridge crossing the Mumbles Road near the Swansea Guildhall came from here. [2]
ACCESS
Park at the free car park by the cycle track at Dunvant Square. Walk north up the cycle track towards Gowerton. After 260 metres you may see a vague track heading off to the right over a small stream. Walk through the trees; avoid the swamp.
The NW buttress/wall can be approached by continuing along the cycle path for a further 100 metres until a wide path over a culvert—marked by big stone blocks—leaves the cycle path and goes into the trees. Take the path, go through the gate and (after a few metres) turn right and walk up to the buttress.
THE ROUTES
First Ascents
ADDITIONAL PHOTOS
Side of NW-wall/buttress.
Notes
- ↑ The tunnel is blocked for both safety reasons and to protect roosting bats. https://www.swansea.gov.uk/dunvantbrickworks
- ↑ The Story of Dunvant by David Morgan
