Bargoed
| Bargoed | |
 Lyddite - Fr.7a+. Climber: Goi Ashmore. | |
| Rock Type | Quarried Sandstone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Sport |
| Approach Time | 3 minutes |
| Area | Sandstone |
| Sub Area | Sandstone Eastern Valleys |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.696600, -3.228714 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SO 151 004 on Landranger sheet 171 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.695767, -3.2291966 |
| GR Parking Location | 315140, 200384 |
| Parking Postcode | CF81 9AE |
| Base Elevation | 200 metres (SRTM Estimation) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | West |
| Aspect | Sunny |
| Wind Sheltered | Seldomly |
| Climbing Type | Normal |
| Midge Problem | Moderate |
| Seepage | Quick drying |
| Crags Within 5.0 km | |
| Bargoed | |
| Sport Grades | |
| <= 6a+ | 10 |
| 6b - 6c+ | 15 |
| 7a - 7b | 2 |
| >= 7b+ | 0 |
Contents
PREAMBLE
Bargoed is an easily accessible quarry (1 min. flat walk from the car) consisting of two walls separated by an arête. It is west facing and so becomes a suntrap during the summer. However, it is also well sheltered, so winter climbing may be possible. The routes are bolted for popularity and there are LO's on most. The climbs are on generally steep slabs and vertical walls of porous sandstone and have considerable individual character. In its rejeuvanated state, Bargoed has been promoted to the premier league of sandstone crags.
ACCESS
Gain the A469 Bargoed Bypass following signs for Rhymney, pass through through several roundabouts, downhill past the train station, until a large viaduct is reached. Proceed right (past but not not under the viaduct) toward Aberbargoed for 200 m and just as Bedwellty Road steepens and a large green sign announces your arrival in Aberbargoed turn left into a gravel roadway, Quarry Row (large white billboard). Drive past the houses until they are out of sight and park at a small pull in on the right, which fits 3 cars.
If on foot, alight at Bargoed railway station and turn left downhill to reach the viaduct. Walk 100m up the hill and turn left into Quarry Row.
THE ROUTES
- Gift Wrapped At Bargoed - Fr. 5+
Leftmost line in the quarry, staples up the former ivy strip. 11m - Ianto's Bargoed Bumblers Blindspot- Fr 6a+ **
The formerly invisible line with the final bolt now added. 11m - Bargoed Bushwhacker - Fr. 6b
Pockets and flake lead to shared L.O. 12m - Bargoed Sideshow - Fr. 6a
Ledges lead to the red hole, pass this to gain a shared belay on left. 12m - Meat Seeking Missile Fr 6b
Rightward trending line above brambly ledge,one for the connoiseur. 11m - Simply Simian - Fr. 6b+
From the piton to the left of Mr. Gorilla's Got a Big Nose to bolts trending right. Harder than it looks. 12m
g# Mr. Gorilla’s Got A Big Nose - E3, 6b
The left hand end of the slab passing a half height letterbox slot. Desperate move past rusty 8mm bolt and similar 20yr old "special" peg. 12m
- Superstrung Direct Fr 6b+
Joins following after 2nd staple. 10m - Super Strung Out At Bargoed - Fr. 6b
Aim for the hole up and left of the shallow scoop. 10m - Brayne Theory Comes To Bargoed - Fr. 6b *
The wall just right of the shallow high scoop with a tricky move gaining the ledge. 14m - Blow The Bargoed Job - Fr. 6b *
Aim for the undercut flake then twitch left along the foot ledge to previous LO. 14m - Beavers At Bargoed - Fr. 6a+ *
Delightful pockets lead to flat edges and the ledge. Proceed thoughtfully over the roof. 16m - Balthazaar's Ball Sac Bulges Beholding The Bouncing Booties Of Bargoed - Fr.6b
The slab left of Pepperatzi has a tricky start. 15m - House Training Catwoman - Fr. 6b
Easy slab climbing leads left to a pull through the roof on very spaced out jugs. 13m - Pepperatzi - Fr.6a+ *
The obvious corner/ramp left of the main arête. 14m - Twenty One Ounces Of Blow - Fr. 6b
Takes the wall above the square cut roofs to join Pepperatzi. 14m - Blowing For Tugs - Fr. 7a+ *
Once the route of the crag. The wall left of the main arête has a desperate and somewhat baffling move to pass the second BR (hint, a heelhook is needed). 14m - Groping For Jugs - Fr. 6a **
The arête is very good and shares a L.O. with Blowing For Tugs. 14m - Hawk’s Cheep - Fr. 6a+
The corner to the right. 14m - Los Pollos Hermanos - Fr. 6a
An excuse to finish up the overhanging prow at a sensible grade. Start up the corner of Hawk's Cheep for 2 bolts then step rightwards onto the long ledge on Brittania. Follow the ledges to Our Man in Bargoed where a rising traverse finishes up the overhanging prow of Lyddite. 20m - Brittania - Fr. 6a+ *
Just right of the corner is a steep slab with a slight bulge at half height. Pull over the bulge with difficulty. L.O. to the right, shared with The Butcher. 15m - Beware The Burly Butcher Of Bargoed - Fr. 6b+ *
Start as for next route then move left up the wall to a L.O. below the ailing tree. 15m - Our Man In Bargoed - Fr. 6c+
The wall to the right with a desperate reachy move past the second bolt. 15m - Conversation Concerning Cordite/Lyddite Direct Finish - Fr.7a+ **
Thin to reach the second bolt, sustained above.Scoot left at 4th bolt to L.O. Our Man... or plough on up the overhanging arête on the right to a L.O. 15m - Black Dog - Fr. 6b+ *
To the right is a sloping ramp at 3m. Gain this, move up a few metres, then step left. Climb the groove and belay on ledge. 12m - Up For Grabs - Fr. 6b+ *
Gain the same ramp, but move right then directly up the overlaps to the shared belay on the ledge. 12m - Bored Of Brackla, Benefactor Of Bargoed - Fr. 6c
Tricky start then move right to shared L.O. 10m - Bargain Basement Bargoed - Fr. 6a *
Direct to L.O. 10m
First Ascents
- Liam Jay from Hengoed.
- R.Thomas G.Ashmore E.T Jones 14.09.2013
- R.Thomas, G.Ashmore 13.10.2011
- R. Thomas D.Emanuel 07.10.2011
- D. Emanuel 2012
- R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 07.10.2011
- M.Crocker, R.Thomas 04.03.1989
- R.Thomas, A.Rosier 11.09.2011
- R.Thomas,D.Emanuel 2011
- R.Thomas, G.Ashmore sept 2011
- R.Thomas, E.Jones sept 2011
- R.Thomas, G. Ashmore 2011
- R.Thomas, A Rosier 26.09.2011
- D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 07.10.2011
- M.Learoyd
- G.Ashmore 01.09.2011
- A.Sharp 29/01/1989 (Trad) (Single hand-drilled bolt placed on first ascent)
Retro-bolted: - G.Ashmore, R.Thomas 2011
- P.Lewis 29/01/1989 (Trad)
Retro-bolted: - A.Rosier, R.Thomas 26.09.2011
- A.Rosier, R.Thomas 26.09.2011
- R.Thomas, G Ashmore 2011
- A. Sharp 29/01/1989 (Trad) (Single hand-drilled bolt placed on first ascent)
Retro-bolted: - G.Ashmore, R.Thomas 2011
- A.Sharp 29/01/1989 (Trad) (Single hand-drilled bolt placed on first ascent)
Retro-bolted: - Mick Learoyd
- G.Ashmore, R.Thomas 2011
- R.Thomas, G.Ashmore 2011
