Tyle y Coch

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Tyle y Coch
Mislivings - Fr.7a. Climber: Oli Burrows
Mislivings - Fr.7a. Climber: Oli Burrows
Rock Type Quarried Sandstone
Climbing Style Sport
Approach Time 10 minutes
Area Sandstone
Sub Area Sandstone Eastern Valleys
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.654088, -3.135846
OS Grid Ref. ST 215 956
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.652460, -3.1373879
GR Parking Location ST 214 954
Parking Postcode NP11 4TB
Base Elevation 126 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction East
Aspect Rarely Sunny
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type Normal
Midge Problem Moderate
Seepage Needs a long dry spell
Crags Within 5.0 km

Blaen Bran Quarry, Cox's Quarry, Crosskeys Quarry, Crymlyn Quarries, Cwmcarn, Fernlea Slabs - Risca, Glyn Quarry, Henllys Quarry, Oakdale, Ridgeway, Sirhowy - Quarry Mawr, Swffryd Wood Quarry, Tirpentwys, Tyle y Coch



Tyle y Coch
Sport Grades
<= 6a+ 11
6b - 6c+ 5
7a - 7b 5
>= 7b+ 1

PREAMBLE

Tyle y Coch Quarry is a north-east facing hole, surrounded by dense beech woodland, which receives sunshine in the morning. It contains some quality sports routes with a wide spread of grades, between Fr.3+ and Fr.7a+.

The Main Wall and subsidiary arête have been rebolted and cleaned and provide a good alternative venue to Sirhowy or the Fr.6c/7a climber. However, the easy sports routes to the right of the main wall will require cleaning and replacement of their first bolts, which were vandalised.

There is seasonal seepage on the Main Wall which takes a good dry spell to clear. Fortunately, once it does dry it remains so, and due to its slightly overhanging nature the best routes are climbable even in the pouring rain.

ACCESS

From the A467 Northbound take the third turning on the left after the mini roundabout at Pontywaun, Prince of Wales Trading Estate, into the village of Westend (Bridge Street). 200m after the railway bridge, left turn, straight up the hill (Islwyn Street). A further 200m later is a steep left hand turn with limited parking. Follow the edge of the disused railway track through the woods to reach the quarry entrance in 300m.

To find your desired crag, type the name in to the Filter Markers box (top right corner of the map).

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THE ROUTES

The routes are described from right to left.

Right Hand Area

Right Hand Area - RHS
  1. The Unloved Line - Fr. 3+


  2. Lilly Of The Valleys - Fr. 3+
    A slabby line up a groove at the right-hand side of the crag. A Friend 2 protects the one awkward move. 8 m

  3. Jumping Jack Flash - Fr. 4+
    Currently debolted. Climb directly up the short orange wall, passing two bolts to the belay. 7 m

  4. Enema Of The Affair - Fr. 6c+ **
    Climb the arête via several tricky moves. 12 m

  5. High Moon - Fr. 6a+ *
    A good face route 2 m left of the arête, with a memorable rockover at 10 m. 12 m

  6. Suppose A Tree - Fr. 4+
    First bolt is missing. Climb the corner on the left side of the pillar, stepping left on to the wall at 8m. Climb the small overhang to finish. 12 m

  7. Buen Culo - Fr. 4
    First bolt is missing. Start 2m to the left of Suppose A Tree. Climb a short steep wall continuing up the narrow slabby wall above, trending slightly left to the belay. 11 m

  8. Mal Culo - Fr. 4+
    First bolt is missing. Start in a shallow corner 2 m to the left of Buen Culo. Climb the shallow corner, moving over the small overhang on the right. Continue directly above on the short slabby wall and small overhang to finish. 11 m

  9. The Ring - Fr. 3+
    First bolt is missing. Climb the same shallow corner as Mal Culo, but continue straight on to the overhanging prow of rock, turning this on its right. Step left to the belay. 10 m

  10. Bore Hole - Fr. 3+
    First bolt is missing. Again climb the shallow corner of Mal Culo, but move left to follow a line of bore holes to the belay. 10 m

The Main Wall

Routes described going from R to L so don't get confused.!

  1. Cheeky Arête - S
    The short arête is started on the right. At half height, move on to the left side (PR) and finish by scrambling up the narrow ramp, leftwards, towards the (very old) belay. 14 m

  2. The Big Tissue - Fr. 6b
    Start 2 m left of the arête. Mantle over the overhang with difficulty. Easier climbing up the wall leads to a thin finish left to the shared L.O. of Peachy. 14 m

  3. Peachy - Fr. 6c *
    Make a tough move onto a jutting block to gain a shattered bore hole in the slab. Move up with some difficulty and continue to a L.O. just above an overhang (very hard to reach). 14 m

  4. Mislivings - Fr. 7a *
    Start as for Peachy, but at the large borehole, traverse left with feet below the small overhang and hands above. Climb the leftward-trending line from the edge of the overlap to a final roof. A sustained route. 19 m

    Main Wall Topo
  5. The Four Minute Tyle - Fr.7b *
    A direct line up the wall to the right of Fairies Wear Boots. A very hard fingery start leads into Mislivings. At the fifth bolt move slightly left then make hard moves back right to the belay. The route may be soft 7a+ if joined from the start of peachy.

  6. Fairies Wear Boots - Fr. 6c+ **
    The crack. Pass the half height overhang on the left and head up to a lower off above the second overhang. 16 m

  7. Paradise Row - Fr. 7a *
    A sustained wall climb, with a hard lower wall. Start by moving leftwards on the slightly slabby wall to reach a good edge. From here sustained and reachy climbing leads to a rest above the second overhang. Finish in a slightly unorthodox position. L.O. 18 m

  8. The Pink Lady - Fr. 6c *
    Start under a Y shaped crack line, in the left side of the wall. Ascend the crack with difficulty to the small roof, where improving holds lead to a L.O. above the second overlap. 12 m

  9. A Cleft Stick - Fr. 7a **
    Shares a start with The Pink Lady but follows the crack where it splits left. There are decent rests above each overhang but the final wall can be strength sapping. 18 m

  10. Belly Up - Fr. 7b *
    Start just right of the corner. Follow a tricky initial crack to gain the overlap. Pull through this rightward to gain a hole and wide break. Swing left and finish up the tricky headwall on marginal undercuts. 20 m

  11. Root Canal - Fr. 6a+
    The corner crack. It is difficult to pass the overlap and pull onto the finishing ledge. 14 m

  12. Rump And Scoop - Fr. 6a *
    Ascend the right hand side of the large arête. 12 m

    Fairies Wear Boots Fr. 6c+. F.A.
    Peachy

Black Cat Wall

  1. The Black Circular Cat - E3, 5c **
    Start at the left-hand end of the face, directly below the left end of a narrow ledge at 3 m. Climb to the ledge with difficulty. Walk right along this and ascend a ramp, leading to a corner and overhang. Arrange gear and break out right using a very thin ramp line for feet, eventually gaining a good hold and the top. A direct start is possible via the roof and short crack at E3, 6a. 15 m

  2. The Postman - E2, 5c
    Start as for the above route. Move along the ledge until reaching a thin crack. Use this and continue up right across the face to the corner. Follow this moving left to the top. Large Friends are handy. 14 m

  3. Pecker Patrol - E1, 5b
    Start 1 m left of the Postman. Climb the left hand edge of the wall to a PR. Pass this and move up and right to the large ledge. 12 m

  4. Y Caled Caled - Fr. 7c
    The steep sidewall just right of the overhanging crack.

FIRST ASCENTS

Right Hand Area

  1. The Unloved Line - Faith Rocke. 24/08/2023
  2. Lilly Of The Valleys - S.Abbott, J.James, W.Gladwin, D.Jones 04.02.2001
  3. Jumping Jack Flash - S.Abbott, J.James, W.Gladwin 14.05.2000
  4. Enema Of The Affair - J.James, W.Gladwin 14.05.2000
  5. High Moon - J.James, W.Gladwin 00.12.1999
  6. Suppose A Tree - W.Gladwin, J.James 08.07.2000
  7. Buen Culo - W.Gladwin, S.Abbott, J.James 13.05.2000
  8. Mal Culo - W.Gladwin, J.James, J.Keyhole 07.05.2000
  9. The Ring - W.Gladwin, J.James 16.07.2000
  10. Bore Hole - W.Gladwin, J.James 16.07.2000

The Main Wall

  1. Cheeky Arête - S.Abbott, J.James, W.Gladwin 14.05.2000
  2. The Big Tissue - J.James, W.Gladwin, D.Jones 13.05.2001
  3. Peachy - J.James, W.Gladwin 14.07.2000
  4. Mislivings - J.James, W.Gladwin 22.06.2001
  5. The Four Minute Tyle - G.Percival 17.09.2014
  6. Fairies Wear Boots - A.Rosier, W.Gregory, R.McAllister 16.08.2013
  7. Paradise Row - G.Gibson, R.Thomas 23.09.2001
  8. The Pink Lady - G.Jenkin, W.Gladwyn, G.Gibson 16.09.2001
  9. A Cleft Stick - G.Gibson 23.09.2001
  10. Belly Up - G.Gibson, A.Jenkin, J.James, W.Gladwyn 16.09.2001
  11. Root Canal - J.James, T.Williams 23.07.2000
  12. Rump And Scoop - J.James, S.Abbott, W.Gladwin 08.10.2000

Black Cat Wall

  1. The Black Circular Cat - J.James, S.Abbott, W.Gladwin 04.03.2001
    Direct: J. James, P. Bowen 00.03.2001
  2. The Postman - J.James, J.Steer 20.05.2001
  3. Pecker Patrol - J.James, S.Thompson, D.Williams, W.Gladwyn 16.09.2001
  4. Y Caled Caled - Matt Wright Sept 2016

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