Machen
| Machen | |
| Rock Type | Quarried Sandstone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Sport |
| Approach Time | |
| Area | Sandstone |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | |
| OS Grid Ref. | |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | |
| GR Parking Location | |
| Base Elevation | metres |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | |
| Aspect | |
| Wind Sheltered | |
| Climbing Type | |
| Seepage | |
Contents
Bolting Policy
Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentionist's permission. New sports route allowed.
Preamble
A new venue under development. A compact crag destine to contain mostly Fr.5s. Some of the routes will suffer seasonal seepage. If the waterfall areas ever freeze the venue may offer bolted ice-climbing?
Access
NGR: E: xxxxxx,N: xxxxxx)
Descent
All routes will have lower-offs.
Preamble
Access
The Routes
Vaginismus Wall
Two projects tightly squeezed on the gloomy left wall which has so far remained damp in all seasons,awaits an exceptionally dry summer.
- Project 1
- Project 2
- Project 3
Priapism Gully
4. Project 4 - Hard Days Night D. Emanuel
Scramble up corner
5. Project 5 - Norwegian Wood D. Emanuel
Scramble left ward on rib to corner
Priapism Rib
6. Project 6 D. Emanuel
Isolated rib located between damp rock. Pass roof to right. Roof may go direct
Face right of Rib
7. Stiff little number Fr 6a+ **
The prominent dry rib soaring above the ash stumps.17m R. Thomas D. Emanuel July 2013
Priapism Arête
8. Nine Iron 6a D. Emanuel, R. Thomas July 2013
Deeply undercut start on face left of arête.
9. Gift from Zeus 5+ D. Emanuel, R. Thomas July 2013
Arête on its left side to lower off on right. Another deeply undercut start.
10. Bungles Phallic Skeleton 6a D. Emanuel, R. Thomas July 2013
Balance up the scoop to the right of arête.
Priapism Buttress
11. Project 11 D. Emanuel
Ascent of prominent tower
12. The Wilter Of Our Discontent
Blocky scramble up seasonal waterfall
13. Hard Times
Rightward route to leaning wall
