Clydach Vale Cambrian Quarry
| Clydach Vale Cambrian Quarry | |
 Right side. | |
| Rock Type | Quarried Sandstone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Sport |
| Approach Time | 15 minutes |
| Area | Sandstone |
| Sub Area | Sandstone Western Valleys |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.63232, -3.477354 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SS 978 936 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.62947 -3.477635 |
| GR Parking Location | SS 978 933 |
| Parking Postcode | CF40 2DT |
| Base Elevation | 339 metres (SRTM Estimation) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | South West |
| Aspect | |
| Wind Sheltered | |
| Climbing Type | Normal |
| Seepage | |
| Crags Within 5.0 km | |
|
Blaenllechau, Bwlch Mountain Road, Clydach Vale Bogmonster Quarry, Clydach Vale Cambrian Quarry, Cwm Dimbath, Dan Dicks, Edmonston Quarry and Edge, Ferndale Lower Quarry, Ferndale Main, Ferndale Right, Gelli, Llwynypia, Maerdy - Rhondda Fach, Pontygwaith Quarry, Punk Rocks, Sheriff Quarry - Maerdy, The Farm, Ton Pentre, Trebanog, Treherbert Quarry, Turberville Road Quarry, Tylorstown Quarry, Ynyshir Quarry, Ynyshir West | |
| Clydach Vale Cambrian Quarry | |
| Sport Grades | |
| <= 6a+ | 13 |
| 6b - 6c+ | 1 |
| 7a - 7b | 0 |
| >= 7b+ | 0 |
PREAMBLE
Small sunny quarry above the recreation pitch. About a dozen 3-5's which would make it ideal for instructing or a transition to outdoor climbing.
ACCESS
Access Land (Public Forest).
Follow the A4119 to a roundabout the start of Tonypandy proper. Turn left at the roundabout, then follow sign to Clydach Vale. Take the 3rd R after the church steeply to park at the end of Oak Street. Head up the track then follow it R to just above the Cambrian recreation pitches.
THE ROUTES
- Project $ Fr€
Project up the left arête of the first wall. - Project @notha projectFr69
Both routes still being bolted and cleaned.
A few metres right is another bay - Beetle VaJizzle - Fr. 5
Climb the arête (left side of bolts) using hands and left foot on the arête, right foot to stay on the face until you stand/climb onto the ledge after the third clip. Clip BeetleJiz to the belay - Barely Desperado - Fr. 6b+ *
Climb a technical sequence of moves on the right side of BeetleVaJizzle. no Arête, face only. Ledge above second clip is in for hands. Traverse rightwards on face and climb into BeetleJizz after third clip. - Beetle Jizz - Fr. 5
Sidewall of crack then ledges to final short wall (direct startup short arete can be made). - Chip Off The Old Block - Fr. 5
Corner climb and continues up face (shared belay with Climb 5). - Hardwidge - Fr. 5+
Straight up with a tricky middle section. - Gevans - Fr. 5+
line on the face just left of overhang. - Looks Can Be Deceiving - Fr. 6a
Climb under overhang and pull hard to make move over overhang then wander left to shared belay. - Chain Reaction - HS
The wide crack joining the next route. Clipping any nearby bolts totally forbidden at this grade. - Chain Gang - Fr. 4
Sharp arête then amble up the slab. - Pull My Chain - Fr. 4+
Short roof to ledge with protruding block. Share belay of previous. - Disappointment - Fr. 6a
Climb on left, clip on right. - Disappointed - Fr. 6a
Climb on right, clip on left. - Enchainment - Fr. 4
Blunt ledgy rib, all glue-ins. - Little Sh*t - Fr. 3
Micro-arête above the grassy steps. - Deep Sh*t - VDiff
The very short crack, top out. - Sh*t Faced - Fr. 5
Stay in the centre of the wall at this grade.
First Ascents
- Project -
- Project -
- Beetle VaJizzle - Gandalf 6th August 2022
- Barely Desperado - Gareth Davies, Kirsty and Gandalf 6th August 2022
- Beetle Jizz - Gandalf, Ed Chapman & Roy Thomas May 2022
- Chip Off The Old Block - Gandalf, Gareth Torrance, March 2022
- Hardwidge - Gareth Torrance & Gandalf, March 2022
- Gevans - Gareth Torrance & Gandalf, March 2022
- Looks Can Be Deceiving - Gandalf & Gareth Torrance, March 2022
- Chain Reaction - Roy Thomas
- Chain Gang - Roy Thomas, Gandalf & Ed Chapman May 2022
- Pull My Chain - Roy Thomas, Gandalf & Ed Chapman May 2022
- Disappointment - Gandalf & Gareth Torrance, March 2022
- Disappointed - Gandalf & Gareth Torrance, March 2022
- Enchainment - Roy Thomas, Ed Chapman & Gandalf May 2022
- Little Sh*t - R.Thomas solo 2022
- Deep Sh*t - R.Thomas solo
- Sh*t Faced - R.Thomas solo
