Mountain Ash Natural Buttress

From South Wales Climbing Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search
Mountain Ash Natural Buttress
Rock Type Natural Sandstone
Climbing Style Trad
Approach Time 10 minutes
Area Sandstone
Sub Area Sandstone Central Valleys
WGS-84 Location 51.677728, -3.3644959
OS Grid Ref. ST 05751 98544
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.677758, -3.3679131
GR Parking Location ST 05515 98552
Parking Postcode CF45 4HL
Base Elevation 154 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction South West
Aspect Partially Sunny
Wind Sheltered Never
Climbing Type Normal
Midge Problem Moderate
Seepage Quick drying
Crags Within 5.0 km

Abercynon High Buttress, Cefnpennar, Mount Pleasant, Mount Pleasant (X2), Mountain Ash, Mountain Ash Natural Buttress, Mountain Ash West, Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd, Penrhiwceiber Quarry, Pontygwaith Quarry, The Gap, Troedyrhiw, Tylorstown Quarry, Upper Mountain Ash, Ynysboeth, Ynysybwl Lady Windsor Quarry, Ynysybwl Upper Quarry


The natural buttress running leftwards from the left-hand side of Mountain Ash quarry. Starting in a small bay in the centre of the natural section.

1. Spittle Jacuzzi 8m HVS,5b

Climb the overhanging crack on the front left-hand face.

Cardiff University MC c.1975

2. Fist In Vice 8m HVS,4c

The crack on the left-hand side of the bay proper.

Cardiff University MC c.1975

3. 20 Years In Llangattock 8m E1,5c

Climb the starting crack of Getting Fatter, but pull left to climb the wall on slots.

G.Ashmore, R.Thomas 27.05.2003

4. Getting Fatter 8m VS,4c

A left hand start to the chimney starting up the jam crack.

Cardiff University MC c.1975

5. The Spam Tree 8m S

The large chimney.

Cardiff University MC c.1975

6. Another Toss Gobbler 8m VD

Climb the centre of the square wall in the back of the bay.

Cardiff University MC c.1975

7. Crocker’s Pot 8m S

The centre of the buttress to the right.

Cardiff University MC c.1975

8. Pork Pie Driller 8m S

The arête just to the right of the overhangs.

Cardiff University MC c.1975


There are a couple of rediscovered edges about 300m south of the quarry. To gain them, follow the path up the right bank of the quarry, then follow a fence and path off right until opposite the first of three red factory buildings on the valley floor. The first buttress is directly below, the second about 50m further on.

The first buttress is a small, square lump with an undercut front face.

64. Dr. Foster And Confused Of Gloucester 7m VS,4b

The left side wall of the buttress.

G.Ashmore, R.Thomas 27.04.2003

65. Vertical Drain 7m HVS,4c

The left-hand side of the arête.

G.Ashmore solo 27.04.2003

66. 20,000 Llangattocks Under The Sea 7m HS,4b

The undercut crack on the right.

G.Ashmore solo 27.04.2003

The second buttress is a much more impressive pillar of rock. Reach the base by descending left, walking around the front, then climbing down a tree.

67. Once More Off To The Beach Dear Friends 20m HVS,5a *

As for Angel Flakes to the ledge, then climb the wall left of the blunt arête past some good micro-friends. Now I bloody well will be after finishing this ******g guide.

G.Ashmore, R.Thomas 26.05.2003

68. Angel Flakes 20m VS,4c **

Climb the blunt arête from bottom to gain the mid-height ledge. Leave this taking care with some flakes and continue up the arête to finish up a short wall. The right (overhanging) arête can be used as an alternative start at HVS,5a.

M.Crocker Pre-1978



  1. Cardiff University MC c.1975
  2. Cardiff University MC c.1975
  3. G.Ashmore, R.Thomas 27.05.2003
  4. Cardiff University MC c.1975
  5. Cardiff University MC c.1975
  6. Cardiff University MC c.1975
  7. Cardiff University MC c.1975
  8. Cardiff University MC c.1975


  1. G.Ashmore, R.Thomas 27.04.2003
  2. G.Ashmore solo 27.04.2003
  3. G.Ashmore solo 27.04.2003
  4. G.Ashmore, R.Thomas 26.05.2003
  5. M.Crocker Pre-1978