Clydach Vale Bogmonster Quarry
| Clydach Vale Bogmonster Quarry | |
 | |
| Rock Type | Quarried Sandstone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Sport |
| Approach Time | 30 minutes |
| Area | Sandstone |
| Sub Area | Sandstone Western Valleys |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.628019, -3.488374 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SS 970 931 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.62947, -3.477635 |
| GR Parking Location | SS 978 933 |
| Parking Postcode | CF40 2DT |
| Base Elevation | 373 metres (SRTM Estimation) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | South East |
| Aspect | |
| Wind Sheltered | |
| Climbing Type | Normal |
| Seepage | |
| Crags Within 5.0 km | |
|
Blaenllechau, Bwlch Mountain Road, Clydach Vale Bogmonster Quarry, Clydach Vale Cambrian Quarry, Cwm Dimbath, Dan Dicks, Edmonston Quarry and Edge, Ferndale Lower Quarry, Ferndale Main, Ferndale Right, Gelli, Lewistown, Llwynypia, Pontygwaith Quarry, Punk Rocks, The Farm, Ton Pentre, Trebanog, Treherbert Quarry, Turberville Road Quarry, Tylorstown Quarry, Ynyshir West | |
| Clydach Vale Bogmonster Quarry | |
| Sport Grades | |
| <= 6a+ | 11 |
| 6b - 6c+ | 2 |
| 7a - 7b | 0 |
| >= 7b+ | 0 |
PREAMBLE
Hiding in plain sight above the highest terrace in this part of Clydach Vale, Moreton. This high quarry has a section with waterfalls after heavy rain which form a bog beneath. Could be of interest to some in winter after a heavy freeze. The rest of the walls are drier and will yield about 16 routes. There are 15 at present.
ACCESS
Find and take the A4119 running from M4/Llantrisant junction? to the roundabout just before Tonypandy. Turn left and follw signs to Clydach Vale into the village. Follow directions as per Cambrian Quarry and park in the same spot at the end of Oak Terrace. Continue up the forest track but take the left turn until buried electric cable posts appear.Shortly after a small cairn marks a trodden path through the long grass passing two small conifers,the crag is underneath.The faint path leads downto the R side of the crag with Moreton Terrace tantalisingly just below. Hopefully some one will beat a direct path up from the terrace to shorten the 30 minute walk in. (One day, keep dreaming).
THE ROUTES
- Sniff That - Fr. 5
Wall left of crack. Short. - Little Stinker - VS,4c
The crack in its entirety with a nice big fern left for you to fight with at the top. Clipping nearby bolts strictly forbidden but in situ friend ok. Use a nearby belay. Topping out is your problem. - Flick up a Stink - Fr. 5+ *
Crack, wall, shared belay after high R traverse. - Vab a Dab a Dooo - Fr. 5+ *
Thin crack and wall left of remnants of the gorse bush. - Open Project
Wide chimney R of bush to shared L.O. Clean the mess off neighbouring climbs if you decide to complete this. - Nestling Balls - Fr. 6b *
Steeply up the left retaining wall avoiding loose chimneys on either side. - Cheesey 5skin - Fr. 5
Not the best route in the world; improves as you get higher; shares belay on the right. - Rumplestilskin - Fr. 5+ **
Up the front of the shallow pillar. - Crumpled 4skinner - Fr. 5+ *
The arête and sidewall shuffling left at the very top to a shared belay. - Wet Skin - Fr. 6a+
Follow the crack up the left side of the wall, often damp after rain. Pink glue-ins. - Foreskin of Cheddar aka Dairy Lea Dunker - Fr. 6a *
Arête R of wet streak. Sting in the tail, get the top before clipping belay. - Crinkly Foreskin - Fr. 6a
Blunt arête of cheesey crack.
- Wizard’s Cloak - Fr. 6a + *
Crack and direct over strip roof. - Yanking on the Wizard's Cloak - Fr. 6c **
Take the rib as for the next route then launch over the roof at the square block to shared belay on left, exquisite moves over the roof. - Wield the Elder Wand - Fr. 6a
Rib on R edge of wall with "strip roof". Skirt off to the R avoiding roof and share chain. - Draw Back The Wizards Sleeve -
Left edge of heathery wall to share chain belay.
First Ascents
- Sniff That - Roy Thomas & Gandalf Sept 2022
- Little Stinker - Roy Thomas, Ed Chapman & Nick O'Neill
- Flick up a Stink - R.Thomas & Gandalf Aug 2022
- Vab a dab a dooo - R.Thomas & Gandalf Aug 2022
- Closed Project -
- Nestling Balls - Gandalf & Roy Thomas July 2022
- Cheesey 5skin - Roy Thomas & Nick O'Neill August 2022
- Rumplestilskin - Roy Thomas & Aaron Martin July 2022
- Crumpled 4skinner - Roy Thomas & Gandalf July 2022
- Wet Skin - Roy Thomas & Ed Chapman Aug 2022
- Foreskin of Cheddar Aka Dairy Lee Dunker - Gandalf Aug 2022
- Crinkly Foreskin - Gandalf 6a
- Wizard’s Cloak - Gandalf, Roy Thomas & Nick O'Neill September 2022
- Yanking on the Wizard's Cloak - Gandalf, RoyThomas & Gareth Torrance September 2022
- Wield Elder Wand - Roy Thomas & Gandalf September, 2022
- Draw Back the Wizard’s Sleeve - Roy Thomas, Gandalf & Nick O'Neill September 2022
ADDITIONAL PHOTOS
Roy at work.
Aaron on Yanking the Wizard's Cloak.
