Punk Rocks

Punk Rocks
( Cymmer )
Second Quarry
Rock Type	Quarried Sandstone
Climbing Style	Trad
Approach Time	10 minutes
Area	Sandstone
Sub Area	Sandstone Western Valleys
Geodata
WGS-84 Location	51.608452, -3.4174748
OS Grid Ref.	ST 019 909
WGS-84 Parking Location
GR Parking Location
Base Elevation	231 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction	South East
Aspect	Partially Sunny
Wind Sheltered	Mostly
Climbing Type	Normal
Midge Problem	Moderate
Seepage	Quick drying
Crags Within 5.0 km
Brittania Quarry, Clydach Vale Bogmonster Quarry, Clydach Vale Cambrian Quarry, Dan Dicks, Edmonston Quarry and Edge, Gelli, Glynfach, Llwynypia, Pontygwaith Quarry, Porth, Punk Rocks, Sugardaddy Gasworks, The Farm, Ton Pentre, Trebanog, Trehafod, Turberville Road Quarry, Tylorstown Quarry, Ynyshir Quarry, Ynyshir West, Ynysybwl Lady Windsor Quarry, Ynysybwl Upper Quarry

PREAMBLE

East facing quarries above Cymmer (Porth). There are several sections of varying quality.

The main wall in the second quarry looks like a section of Mt Arapiles, but for the brambly base and shocking peg lower offs.

ACCESS

From the south: Jct 34 M4, follow the A4119 to Tonyrefail, at the roundabout take the second exit Porth road (A4233). When descending from Trebanog village, take a left (Ton Hywel) about 200m past the Farmers Arms, then the third right to park in a small cul de sac (Tan-Y-Bryn) next to the school sport fields, near CF39 9ED.

From Porth: take the Trebanog road (A4233) up the hill taking the first right after the Mayflower chinese takeaway, to finally reach the same parking spot near the playing field.

Follow the track up the hill to arrive at the second quarry.

DESCENTS

Belays will be poor or non existent so a spare rope may be handy (read, essential) to hitch to the fence posts.

THE ROUTES

Routes described from left to right as one approaches them.

FIRST QUARRY

First Quarry.

1. James Bond - E1,5b
   Gain the shelf below the highest point of the quarry by a thin crack below its right end.Follow the vague groove right then back left. 15m.
   
   
2. Eddy Edwards - HVS,5a
   
   
3. Edwina Curry - HVS,5b
   
   
4. Black Looks - E2,5b
   
   
5. To Distant Friends - VS,4c
   The obvious crack. 10m.
   
   

SECOND QUARRY

"A rope from the stile in the fence above will back up the belays"

1. Intravenous Suffragette Injection - E2,5c
   
   
2. The Scoop - VS,4c
   
   
3. Dai Swastika - HVS,5a
   
   
4. Call My Bluff - E2,5c
   
   
5. Mona Lisa - E4,6b
   The line of spaced bolts up the centre of the steep orange wall, between the cracks. Looks pretty blank and the bolts are in bad shape.
   
   
6. Completely Punked - E1,5b
   
   
7. Waiting Game - E3,5c
   
   
8. Ferret Wall - E1,5c
   
   
9. Amen Corner - VS.4b
   
   
10. Broga-y-Meirow - HVS,5c
    
    
11. The Entrepreneur - E1,5b
    The cracks in the wall just before the next quarry. 12m.
    
    

Second Quarry.

THIRD QUARRY

1. False Protection - E3,5c
   The obvious jam crack,pass the loose band to the headwall,BR. Move left onto the arête. 14m.
   
   

FOURTH QUARRY

1. Window Shopping - HS,4c
   9m
   
   
2. Left Hand START - HS,5b
   5m
   
   
3. Syd B'Arête - HS,4c
   6m
   
   

First Ascents

First Quarry

1. James Bond -
2. Eddy Edwards -
3. Edwina Curry -
4. Black Looks -
5. To Distant Friends -

Second Quarry

1. Intravenous Suffragette Injection -
2. The Scoop -
3. Dai Swastika -
4. Call My Bluff -
5. Mona Lisa -
6. Completely Punked -
7. Waiting Game -
8. Ferret Wall -
9. Amen Corner -
10. Broga-y-Meirow -
11. The Entrepreneur -

Third Quarry

1. False Protection -

Fourth Quarry

1. Window Shopping -
2. Left Hand START -
3. Syd B'Arête -