Mount Pleasant

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Mount Pleasant
Mount pleasant.jpg
Rock Type Quarried Sandstone
Climbing Style Sport
Approach Time 20 minutes
Area Sandstone
Sub Area Sandstone Central Valleys
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.672212, -3.326186
OS Grid Ref. ST 083 978
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.676954, -3.3322549
GR Parking Location ST 079 984
Parking Postcode CF48 4SU
Base Elevation 237 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction South West
Aspect Sunny
Wind Sheltered Seldomly
Climbing Type Normal
Midge Problem Mild
Seepage Quick drying
Crags Within 5.0 km

Abercynon High Buttress, Deri, Mount Pleasant, Mount Pleasant (X2), Mountain Ash, Mountain Ash Natural Buttress, Mountain Ash West, Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd, Penrhiwceiber Quarry, The Gap, Troedyrhiw, Upper Mountain Ash, Ynysboeth, Ynysybwl Lady Windsor Quarry, Ynysybwl Upper Quarry

BMC RAD
RAD Notice/Restriction Mount Pleasant@BMC RAD


Edwardsville Layout

BOLTING POLICY

PREAMBLE

A compact sports quarry located high on the mountain near Mount Pleasant. The quarry faces west and is quick drying with all-day sun. A good summer evening venue!

Whilst the routes are generally solid on the lower tier, the upper tier is a little looser so avoid straying from the lines. Helmets are a good idea for climber and belayer.

N.B. 26/04/2021. It has now been reported that this crag has come under new ownership and that the new owners are (currently) happy for climbers to climb here.

There is also a fair bit of fly-tipping at the base so be wary if dogs or children are present.

ACCESS

There are some access issues at this crag. See BMC Access Database

From the south, follow the A4054 through Edwardsville until Mount Pleasant is reached. It is recommended to park on the southern side of the village of Mount Pleasant.

Walk south along the A4054 until two tracks are seen leading uphill into the forest. Follow the second and southerly track (in poorer condition than the northern track which leads to Mount Pleasant Crag - X2 upwards past a rusty gate to the lower tier of the quarry.

See Map at bottom of page.

DESCENTS

All current routes have lower-offs.

Should you require access to the top of the upper tier, there is a well-trodden path that winds its way to the top on the left of the lower tier. Presumably the owner has felled a lot of trees recently so the path is a little obstructed in places.

ROUTES

LOWER TIER

Fertility Cave Area

The left hand side of the lower tier sports an impressive cave. The routes are described from the left starting on slabs just outside the cave proper.


1. Monkey Business - Fr.6a+ *

Bimble up the left side of slab to an airy finishing arête.


2. Flidington Rex - Fr.5+

recently re-cleaned and more bolts added.


3. Big Bad Baboon - Fr.5+

Shares a start with Flidington Rex. Move right across ' Orangutanatarium' to an arête with a blue sling 'Cone Penetration Test'.


4. Orangutarium - Fr.6b *

The next route is direct via a line of staples through a technical slab.


5. Cone Penetration Test - Fr.6b+

The arête to reach a tree with a sling.


6. Remediation Required - Fr.6b *

The cheesy-looking corner gives steep and interesting climbing.


7. Fisty Nuts - Fr.7b+ *

The horizontal roof crack and slab above the lip of the cave.


8. Phill's a Thieving Little Scrote Fr 6a+

The roof up to a large padlock on the bolt. A continuation claimed at 7b(Phill's a Bit Wrong but..) is the stolen project by Phill 'chopstix' Windley 2010.


9. Fistula - Fr.7a **

Superb route via twisting crack and easier but fine headwall.

Fertility Cave Topo

10. Rabbit Proof Fence - Fr.6a+

Line of staples right of cave to lip of second overhang.


11. Uluru - Fr.6a+

Pocketed groove just to the right taking roof on right.


12. Cox 2 Inhibitor - Fr.6b+ *

Direct behind larch tree via pockets and tricky bulge.


13. Proton Pump - Fr.6a

Shallow groove with steep bulge


14. Voltarol Vigour Fr.6a

Line of staples to right to higher lower-off.


15. Sucking Dick's Lofenac - Fr.5+

the left-hand side of the slab right of the corner.


16. Co-Codamol Crunch - Fr.5+

right side of slab to same lower-off.


17. Tramadol Trip - Fr.6a *

Pockets in a faint groove left of a slanting crack.

Right Hand Slabs

Rob McAllister on Paul Prefers Pretty Pussy - Fr.6a+

1. Paracetamol Punch - Fr.6b

Pockets to start to gain slab with a bulge above.


2. Ed Less - Fr.6a

Deep pocket to pass overhang then slab above.

2.5 Cut Throat-Fr 6a+ 1.69 m L of Guillotine to belay of previous.

3. Guillotine - Fr.5+

Corner above earth bank.


4. Final Cut - Fr.6b

R of earth bank. Up left to a pocket then tricky move to slabby arête.


5. Primal Cut - Fr.6b

Short wall to 'stand up' finale.


6. Razor Strop - Fr.6b

Difficult start to ledge then easy.


7. The Poddling - Fr.6a *

Scooped wall to overhangs, sharp arête and crack above.


8. Ed More - Fr.5

Rounded slab work, worthwhile, shares a lower off with The Puddling.


9. Aqua Mule Show - Fr.5

V groove, short slab and rib above overlap.


10. Known only Unto God - Fr.6a+

Easy start to face with hard finale to belay (krab has recently been stolen).


11. Oolacunta - Fr.6a

High blunt arête.


12. Uber Gruppen Fuhrer - Fr.4

Easy slab. Staples on terrace above for those wishing to top out.

Drift Mine Wall

There are three further routes over to the right, tucked in behind some trees


1. Daddy's Little Lemon Licker Fr. 6a

Start right of mine entrance. Up and left to lower-off.


2. Get Nutted E2 5c

Twin diagonal cracks.


2. Homme de L'elephant Fr.5+

A line of staples to the right.


UPPER TIER

Left Hand Slabs

On the left side of the Upper Tier is a raised platform, above which is a sweep of slabs. The routes get progressively better rightwards.

Left Hand Slabs.jpg

1. Polari Cartso - Fr.5+

Tricky start on undercut slab, past tree with sling.


2. Rhondda Tan - Fr.5

Slab with horizontal breaks


3. Steroid Vest - Fr.6a

More Slab Climbing


4. Back to Black - Fr.5+

Wide Crack - still a little loose and eliminate.


5. Johnny Bionc - 6a

Better. Finger jams in vertical crack to gain slab


6. Slabadabadoo - Fr.5

Slab to oversized lower-off chain


7. Fisting the night away - Fr.5+

Entertaining. The twisting crack

Fisting the Night Away.jpg


Undercut Slabs Area

The high undercut slab contains three of the best routes hereabout.


1. Paul Prefers Pretty Pussy - Fr.6a+

Left hand line with a peg low down. Swing back and forth around the arête until a crack in the slab is reached. Single snap-gate lower off.


2. Monkey Stole My Face - Fr.6a+ *

Central leaning crack line. Good dynamic fun.


3. Balls of Damocles - Fr.6b *

Start in 'V' groove and rock over leftwards onto the slab using slopey crimps, technical.

Undercut slabs and crud area.jpg

Crud Area

Reasons not to climb near blast holes soon become apparent.


1. A Dream of Wet Rabbits - Fr.5

The right side of the groove to a low L.O.


2. Boy George V - Fr.6a

Surmount the giant egg to a ledge. Shares a L.O. with A Dream.


3. Rent Boys and Radiators - (XS) Fr.6a+

A poor route. Approach the long & shattered vertical shothole with care.


4. We Like Hot Beaver - Fr.6a

Another adventure through questionable rock - but improved since the first ascent.


5. Hot Little Minx - Fr.6a

The line of goldie hangers. Just left of the corner to a high L.O.


Central Area

Central Area.jpg


1. The Pleasant Mount - Fr.6c+ *

A long and good looking route.


2. Mounting at the Edge - Fr.6b+ *

Branches rightwards from The Pleasant Mount after bolt No.2.


3. Man in Honda over yonder in Rhondda - Fr.6b

Up the stepped arête to a hard-to-clip belay


4. Poke Her Face - Fr.5+

Surprisingly delicate ascent of the short arête.


Right Hand Area

1. Over the Top - Fr.6a

Climb a bulge and then a slab above ledge. Awkward to clip the lower off.


2. Bull Camp - Fr.6a

To lower-off on right of roof.


3. I love valleys girls - Fr.6a (& Bull Camp Fr.5+)

Continuation of Bull Camp - Steep climbing on the left of Henry Allingham following a good line of bolts to a slab high up . Climb through the shale band and over the last overhang to reach a good lower off situated back. 15m


4. ...but I couldn't eat a whole one - Fr.6a

A link up. Climb Henry Allingham but finish up left passing a small tree to the small roof. Finish as for 'I love ...' 10m


5. Henry Allingham - Fr.5c

The left hand groove line to the roof, then move out right to an exposed mantle shelf finish. Henry Allingham was the oldest WW1 soldier still alive at the time of the first ascent (trench warfare). 10m.


6. Harry Patch - Fr.6a+

The slab and exposed finish to the lower off on the roof right of Henry A. Harry patch was the oldest living RAF officer from WW1. 10m


7. Chloe's Crack - Fr.5+

Del's romance wanted a route named after her, so here it is. Located on the far right of the crags upper tier there is a slanting crack/open groove below an overhanging lower off. Climb onto the ledge of Harry Patch, move right to the groove and follow the obvious cleaned crack to the lower off in the overhanging top-out. A great climb to practice using traditional protection (i.e. nuts/cams) as well as clipping the bolts. In fact the nervous leader may need to after the last bolt! 10m


8 Emiliano Mercado del Toro - Fr.5+

The arête to the right of Chloe's Crack. In name of the oldest authenticated military veteran, from any conflict, ever to have lived. Shared L.O. with Chloe's Crack10m

Righthand area.jpg


There is some loose rock before the next two routes:


9. Bonaroo Lally Tappers - Fr.5+

The slabby face to the left of the final arête in the right of the quarry.


10. Meat Fly vs The Custard Cannon - Fr.6a

Right of the final arête in the right of the quarry. Climb deep crack and hand traverse to finish up slab above.

FIRST ASCENTS

LOWER TIER

Fertility Cave Area

  1. Monkey Business -
  2. Flidington Rex -
  3. Big Bad Baboon -
  4. Orangutarium -
  5. Cone Penetration Test -
  6. Remediation Required -
  7. Fisty Nuts -
  8. Phill's a Thieving Little Scrote -
  9. Fistula -
  10. Rabbit Proof Fence -
  11. Uluru -
  12. Cox 2 Inhibitor -
  13. Proton Pump -
  14. Voltarol Vigour -
  15. Sucking Dick's Lofenac -
  16. Co-Codamol Crunch -
  17. Tramadol Trip -

Right Hand Slabs

  1. Paracetamol Punch -
  2. Ed Less -
  3. Guillotine -
  4. Final Cut -
  5. Primal Cut -
  6. Razor Strop -
  7. The Poddling -
  8. Ed More -
  9. Aqua Mule Show -
  10. Known only Unto God -
  11. Oolacunta -
  12. Uber Gruppen Fuhrer -

Drift Mine Wall

  1. Daddy's Little Lemon Licker - D. Emanuel 2009
  2. Get Nutted - R. Thomas 2008
  3. Homme de l'Elephant - D. Emanuel, R. Thomas, K. Davies 2008


UPPER TIER

Left Hand Slabs

  1. Polari Cartso - D.Emanuel & R.Thomas - November, 2008
  2. Rhondda Tan - D.Emanuel & R.Thomas -November, 20086
  3. Steroid Vest - John Harwood & Marina Ismail - 11th August 1998 - E1
    D.Emanuel & R.Thomas - November, 2008
  4. Back to Black - J. Harwood & Nick Reed, 24th April 94 - HVS
    D.Emanuel & R.Thomas - November, 2008
  5. Johnny Bionic - John Harwood & Marina Ismail, 24th April 94 - HVS
    D.Emanuel & R.Thomas - November, 2008
  6. Slabadabadoo - D.Emanuel & R.Thomas - November, 2008
  7. Fisting the Night Away - John Harwood & Nick Reed, 24th April 1994 (Fishing the Night Away - HVS)
    D.Emanuel & R.Thomas - November, 2008

Undercut Slabs Area -

  1. Paul Prefers Pretty Pussy - R.Thomas 2009
  2. Monkey Stole My Face - D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 2009
  3. Balls of Damocles - R.Thomas 2008


Crud Area

  1. A Dream of Wet Rabbits - D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 2008
  2. Boy George V - R. Thomas 2009
  3. Rent Boys and Radiators - R. Thomas 2008
  4. We Like Hot Beaver - R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 2009
  5. Hot Little Minx - R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 1st May 2009

Central Area

  1. The Pleasant Mount - Gary Gibson, 1st May 2009
  2. Mounting at the Edge - Gary Gibson, 2nd May 2009
  3. Man in Honda over yonder in Rhondda - Gary Gibson, 2nd May 2009
  4. Poke Her Face - Gary Gibson, 2nd May 2009


Right Hand Area

  1. Over the Top - May 2009
  2. Bull Camp - June 2009
  3. I love Valleys Girls - S & C Sept 2009
  4. ...but I couldn't eat a whole one - G & S 1st April 2009
  5. Henry Allingham - G & S 1st April 2009
  6. Harry Patch - G & S 11th March 2009
  7. Chloe's Crack - S & G 11th March 2009
  8. Emiliano Mercado del Toro - S & G 1st April 2009
  9. Bonaroo Lally Tappers - 2nd May 2009
  10. Meat Fly vs The Custard Cannon - 10th May.2009

MAP

The crag located at 51°40'19.75"N / 3°19'35.68"W as shown:

To find your desired crag, type the name in to the Filter Markers box (top right corner of the map).

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