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Dale and Roy on Grizzled Kipper.
Dale and Roy on Grizzled Kipper.
Rock Type Quarried Sandstone
Climbing Style Sport
Approach Time 15 minutes
Area Sandstone
Sub Area Sandstone Far Western Valleys
WGS-84 Location 51.657644, -3.598834
OS Grid Ref. SS 895 966
WGS-84 Parking Location
GR Parking Location
Parking Postcode SA13 3UN
Base Elevation 380 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction South West
Aspect Sunny
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type Normal
Midge Problem Moderate
Seepage Quick drying
Crags Within 5.0 km

Blaengwynfi, Bwlch Mountain Road, Craig Tyle-Cam, Darren Fawr (Garw Valley), Pen Pych, Space Mountain, Treherbert Quarry

Sport Grades
<= 6a+ 13
6b - 6c+ 2
7a - 7b 0
>= 7b+ 0


Situated in the Afan Valley above Blaengwynfi. Sunny secluded woodland quarry with good massively bedded sandstone. Good selection of Fr 4, 5, 6a's.

Popular with midges (June to September).


Look at a map, go to Blaengwynfi, Afan Valley. Turn up the hill by the Library, bus stop then park just before the yellow salt box by the junction of Caroline Terrace and Villiers Rd (SA13 3UN).

At the top of the road it becomes a good path along the edge of the forest. Gentle uphill walk for 15 min., trending right once the good forest track is encountered. Quarry appears on your left.


Entrance Slabs

Visible from the track as one enters the quarry are some short easy slabs excellent for occupying youngsters.

  1. Supercalafragalisticforeskinhalitosis - Fr. - 3
    Short bolted slab.

  2. Marti Fiveskinner Takes It Natural-Fr.4 -
    Some more bolts.

  3. Perky Alex Sucks His Gherkins-Fr.
    Even more bolts but not sadly from a fund.

Main Quarry

Continue left into the quarry to find the main areas,routes listed L to R

  1. Peacock - Fr. 6a
    The most lefthand route to shared belay.

  2. Red Admiral - Fr. 6a+
    Tricky steep start then eases. Share belay.

  3. Darren's Despair At Not Getting His Share VS 5a*
    Trad jamb crack to shared belay.

  4. Lepidopterist In A Flutter - Fr. 5+
    Direct to the sawn twig runner right of the fern filled crack (10mm hole available if you wish to place a bolt) then gain the rubbly ledge with extreme care, belay up left.

  5. Moth Balls - Fr. 5
    Passing left of the sawn tree to high shared belay. Dubious rock! Has now( 2020) joined the other debris on the quarry floor (not recommended).

  6. Pilipala Parade - Fr. 5
    Start right of the sawn tree to ledge then trend left to same L.O..

  7. A Dream of White Admirals - Fr. 5
    Immediately left of arête to ledge, then leftwards to same L.O..

  8. Painted Lady - Fr. 5
    Two bolt sidewall.

  9. Fritillary - Fr. 5
    very short un.

  10. Adonis Blue - Fr. 4 - Fr. 7
    Short route up arête. Grade depends on how you cross the roof.

  11. Speckled Wood - Fr. 6b
    Wall L of arête.

  12. Grizzled Skipper - Fr. 6a **
    Striking central arête with a long reach mid-way.

  13. Purple Emperor - Fr. 6a
    Wall R of arête to shared belay.

  14. Chrysalis Crunch - Fr. 6a+ *
    Wall just L of short arête.

  15. Little Thorn - Fr. 6b
    Short arête.

  16. Small Pearl - Fr.
    Clean short wall R of arête.

  17. Vincent Von Braun Yellows His Trousers - Fr.
    A little further R on same wall, last route in main quarry.

First Ascents

  1. Dai 2018
  2. Dai 2018
  3. David Emanuel Tess Tickle 2018

  1. Roy Thomas 00.06.2018
  2. Roy Thomas june 2018
  3. Roy Thomas F. Uckwits B.Ellend Alex Gherkins 2020
  4. Roy Thomas 00.06.2018
  5. Dai Emanuel Roy Thomas 16/06/2018
  6. Dai Emanuel Roy Thomas 16/06/2018
  7. Dai Emanuel Roy Thomas 16/06/2018
  8. Dai Emanuel Roy Thomas 16/06/2018
  9. Dai Emanuel Roy Thomas 16/06/2018
  10. Dai Emanuel Roy Thomas 16/06/2018
  11. Dai Emanuel Roy Thomas 30.04.2018
  12. Dai Emanuel Roy Thomas 30.04.2018
  13. Dai Emanuel Roy Thomas 30.04.2018
  14. Roy Thomas Dale Davies 00.05.2018
  15. Roy Thomas May 2018
  16. Dai 2018
  17. Dai 2018