Glynfach

Glynfach
Rock Type	Quarried Sandstone
Climbing Style	Sport
Approach Time
Area	Sandstone
Sub Area	Sandstone Western Valleys
Geodata
WGS-84 Location	51.603673, -3.4043906
OS Grid Ref.	ST 028 903
WGS-84 Parking Location
GR Parking Location
Base Elevation	244 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction
Aspect
Wind Sheltered
Climbing Type
Seepage
Crags Within 5.0 km
Brittania Quarry, Coed Ely, Dan Dicks, Edmonston Quarry and Edge, Gelli, Glynfach, Llwynypia, Pontygwaith Quarry, Porth, Punk Rocks, Sugardaddy Gasworks, The Darren, Trebanog, Trehafod, Turberville Road Quarry, Ynyshir Quarry, Ynyshir West, Ynysybwl Lady Windsor Quarry, Ynysybwl Upper Quarry

PREAMBLE

Laura Jones on Killer Arête

A good if somewhat limited crag. The rock around the steep and photogenic arête is of good quality and catches the sun early in the afternoon.

ACCESS

Above the village of Glynfach, SW of Cymmer. Follow the A4225 out of Pontypridd, heading for Porth. Pass through Trehafod to a roundabout by the Rhondda Heritage Park Hotel. Continue 1/4 mile to a dedicated right hand turn signposted Porth town centre. About ½ a mile further on, the main road bears right, but take a left (straight on). The road then swings steeply left up a hill and over a metal bridge. Immediately after the bridge, turn left into Glyn Street (before the road bears right). At the crest of Glyn Street is a gravel track leading left then narrows and goes steeply uphill. At a cross roads in the path (stand of rowan trees on your right), turn right and follow small paths parallel with the old fence line to arrive at the crag (hidden).

If on foot, get the train to Porth, walk over towards Cymmer, and follow the directions as above.

ROUTES

1. Fach Roo - Fr. 6a+
   The short tower at the left of the crag.
   
   
2. Hot Fuss - Fr. 6a
   A corner crack starts at a low level and leads to a ledge. Continue up the left side of the arête.
   
   
3. Killer Arête - Fr. 6b **
   From the ledge on Hot Fuss swing right to climb the steep right side of the arête.
   
   
4. Turn off the Sun - Fr. 7a
   Climb Killer Arête to the third bolt, then traverse slightly right to the lower off of Moses.
   
   
5. Dai Hard - Fr. 7b
   The wall to the right of Killer Arête has a dynamic move off some edges for a distant flake.
   
   
6. Moses Supposes His Toeses Were Roses - Fr. 6c *
   To the right is a Sperm-Whale-like flake of rock. Gain this directly and take the wall above direct to a BB.
   
   
7. Nervous Nineties - Fr. 7a
   Follow Moses to the thin break above the Sperm Whale. Make a hard move right, then go directly up to the BB.
   
   
   
8. Fach Roo Too - Fr. 6a+
   The tower just the other side of the corner to the right of Nervous Nineties.
   
   
9. Fach When - HVS, 5a
   The baggy crack to the right.
   
   
10. Psychotherapy - Fr. 7a
    The white wall to the right.
    
    
11. Fach This - VS, 4b
    The left-hand of the two twin cracks right of Psychotherapy.
    
    
12. Fach That - VS, 4c
    The crack to the right.
    
    
13. Yak’s Back - Fr. 5c
    A route up the slab the the right.
    
    
14. Little Kurd - Fr. 6a
    Up the bolted line.
    
    

FIRST ASCENTS

1. R.Thomas 17.04.1999
2. A.Sharp 30.08.2010
3. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 22.07.1990
4. A.Sharp 30.08.2010
5. G.Ashmore 29.04.1999
6. P.Lewis, A.Sharp 22.07.1990
7. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 22.07.1990
8. R.Thomas 00.00.1999
9. R.Thomas, E.Travers-Jones, Old Harrovians 00.00.1999
10. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 22.07.1990
11. R.Thomas 18.04.1999
12. R.Thomas, E.Travers-Jones, Old Harrovians 00.00.1999
13. G.Henderson, J.Obradovitc 22.07.1990
14. R.Thomas, E.Travers-Jones, Old Harrovians 00.00.1999