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Chris Shorrock on Saga Louts  6a+ at Trehafod.  Photo courtesy of Mark Salter
Chris Shorrock on Saga Louts 6a+ at Trehafod. Photo courtesy of Mark Salter
Rock Type Quarried Sandstone
Climbing Style Sport
Approach Time
Area Sandstone
Sub Area Sandstone Western Valleys
WGS-84 Location 51.611946, -3.383923
OS Grid Ref. ST 042 912
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.610799,-3.383016
GR Parking Location ST 04330 91125
Parking Postcode CF37 2NN
Base Elevation 80 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction South West
Aspect Sunny
Wind Sheltered Seldomly
Climbing Type Normal
Midge Problem Moderate
Seepage Never
Crags Within 5.0 km

Abercynon High Buttress, Brittania Quarry, Dan Dicks, Edmonston Quarry and Edge, Glynfach, Golf Club Crag, Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd, Pontygwaith Quarry, Porth, Punk Rocks, Sugardaddy Gasworks, The Darren, Trebanog, Trehafod, Turberville Road Quarry, Tylorstown Quarry, Ynyshir Quarry, Ynyshir West, Ynysybwl Lady Windsor Quarry, Ynysybwl Upper Quarry


Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed.


Recent re-gearing and retro-bolting has been undertaken, where appropriate, as many of the bolts and pegs used to protect the original ascents have corroded.

Some climbs are possible in the rain and a few stay dry permanently.


This is the crag behind and to the north of Trehafod railway station. If on foot take the train there and take the path leading out from the north side of the station. After 150m, a metalled road is reached, turn right to reach the crag more or less immediately. If in a car take the Trehafod exits off the A4225 carriageway. After 500m turn right under a bridge just past the railway station. Park immediately


Some routes have individual bolt belays. Others don't .!.?.!


Routes No. 1 to 4

Described from Left to Right.

  1. Roaches Revisited - HVS,5b
    The off width crack at the left side of the crag is tricky. Take your BIG cams. Lower off Beauty School Drop-out.

  2. Beauty School Drop-out - Fr. 7a *
    Wrongly described as Chris Evans baked bean super hero in the guide. The wall right of RR is crimpy, intense and climbed direct; using the crack reduces the grade to 6c.

  3. Earl of Porth - Fr. 6a+ *
    The wall right of B.S.D, already popular B.B

  4. Guto Nythbran - Fr. 6b
    Wall and overlap right of EOP one crimpy move B.B

Rave Crave Area

Rave Crave Area
  1. Elf & Safety - Fr. 6c *
    Pull through the left side of the large overhang via a crack B.B

  2. Rave Crave/Rhubarb - Fr. 7a+ *
    Dyno through the roof and continue direct with difficulty

  3. Meg(A) Skater Girl from Gelli - Fr. 6a
    Grove and overlap starting at the right end of the overhang.

Gorki’s Wall

Gorki's Wall - Left
  1. Free Wales - VS,4b
    The crack at the left-hand side of the main wall, above the graffiti of the same name.

  2. Missing Link - Fr. 6b+
    The first bolted line via two pockets

  3. Demi Moore - Fr. 7a *
    Next bolted line good moves via a pocket

  4. Gorki’s Zygotic Mynci - Fr. 6c+ **
    The original and best route up the centre of the wall

  5. Just another one move wonder - Fr. 6b+
    The final bolted line – Don’t use the crack!

  6. Traverse - E5,6b
    There is a traverse along this main section starting up either the left or right bolt line and finishing up its counterpart.

  7. Nasty Norman - VS,4c
    Not bad. The large central offwidth on this wall.

  8. Sniffing Debrah’s Pocket - E2,5c
    Gain the large ledge to the right of the offwidth. Climb the wall above.

  9. Cenotaph Norm Carter - Fr. 6b*
    Start from the Andy Capp graffiti and finish as for discount BB (soon to be rebolted)

    Topo trehafod-gorkis-right.jpg

  10. Discount included in the Price - Fr. 6a+ **
    The longest route on the crag with a new direct finish. Very worthwhile.

  11. Baldy Walks to Ponty - Fr. 6a+
    A direct version up the wall right of Discount.

  12. Rhondda Leader - Fr. 6a
    The last line on the wall

  13. Michelle Pfeiffer - Fr. 6c *
    The thin crack in the overhang wall is short and sweet

  14. Beef Curry and Chips - HVS,5b
    The arête itself climbed on its right-hand side, PB.

  15. Saga Louts - Fr. 6a+
    The wall 5 metres right of M.P is climbed direct

  16. Sir Kitt - V3
    Good 10 metre traverse. Start from Meg (A). Traverse the obvious line with a long finishing move. Reverse and dyno through the rave crave overhang to get a nice V5

First Ascents

  1. Roaches Revisited - C.Evans solo 1992
  2. Beauty School Dro - A Sharp P Lewis 00/02/92
  3. Earl of Porth - A Sharp P Lewis 00/12/08
  4. Guto Nythbran - A Sharp P Lewis 00/01/09

Rave Crave Area

  1. Elf & Safety - A. Sharp & P.Lewis 27/12/08
  2. Rave Crave/Rhubarb - Chris Evans & Andy Sharp 00/00/92
  3. Meg(A) Skater Girl from Gelli - A Sharp & P Lewis 27/12/08

Gorki's Wall

  1. Free Wales - M.Herbert, J.Carter & C.Evans 1992
  2. Missing Link - Chris Evans 1992
  3. Demi Moore - A Sharp & P Lewis 1992
  4. Gorki’s Zygotic Mynci - Chris Evans 1992
  5. Just another one move wonder - A Sharp 1992
  6. Traverse - Ant Hill Mob Pre-1995
  7. Nasty Norman - J.Carter, M.Herbert & C.Evans 1992
  8. Sniffing Debrah’s Pocket - C.Evans & R.Chard 1992
  9. Cenotaph Norm Carter -
  10. Discount included in the price - Chris Evans 1992 New Finish A. Sharp & P Lewis 00/12/08
  11. Baldy Walks to Ponty - Chris Evans 1992 Straightened Andy Sharp & Pete Lewis 00/12/08
  12. Rhondda Leader - A Sharp & P Lewis 00/01/09
  13. Michelle Pfeiffer - A Sharp & P Lewis 1992
  14. Beef Curry and Chips - C.Evans, A.Sharp & P.Lewis 08.02.1992
  15. Saga Louts - A Sharp & P Lewis 00/01/09
  16. Sir Kitt - A Sharp 00/12/08

Additional Photos