Chris Shorrock on Saga Louts 6a+ at Trehafod. Photo courtesy of Mark Salter
|Rock Type||Quarried Sandstone|
|Sub Area||Sandstone Western Valleys|
|WGS-84 Location||51.611946, -3.383923|
|OS Grid Ref.||ST 042 912|
|WGS-84 Parking Location||51.610799,-3.383016|
|GR Parking Location||ST 04330 91125|
|Parking Postcode||CF37 2NN|
|Base Elevation||80 metres (SRTM Estimation)|
|Faces Direction||South West|
|Crags Within 5.0 km.|
Abercynon High Buttress, Brittania Quarry, Dan Dicks, Edmonston Quarry and Edge, Glynfach, Golf Club Crag, Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd, Pontygwaith Quarry, Porth, Punk Rocks, Sugardaddy Gasworks, The Darren, Trebanog, Trehafod, Turberville Road Quarry, Tylorstown Quarry, Ynyshir Quarry, Ynyshir West, Ynysybwl Lady Windsor Quarry, Ynysybwl Upper Quarry
Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed.
Recent re-gearing and retro-bolting has been undertaken, where appropriate, as many of the bolts and pegs used to protect the original ascents have corroded.
Some climbs are possible in the rain and a few stay dry permanently.
This is the crag behind and to the north of Trehafod railway station. If on foot take the train there and take the path leading out from the north side of the station. After 150m, a metalled road is reached, turn right to reach the crag more or less immediately. If in a car take the Trehafod exits off the A4225 carriageway. After 500m turn right under a bridge just past the railway station. Park immediately
Some routes have individual bolt belays. Others don't .!.?.!
Described from Left to Right.
- Roaches Revisited - HVS,5b
The off width crack at the left side of the crag is tricky. Take your BIG cams. Lower off Beauty School Drop-out.
- Beauty School Drop-out - Fr. 7a *
Wrongly described as Chris Evans baked bean super hero in the guide. The wall right of RR is crimpy, intense and climbed direct; using the crack reduces the grade to 6c.
- Earl of Porth - Fr. 6a+ *
The wall right of B.S.D, already popular B.B
- Guto Nythbran - Fr. 6b
Wall and overlap right of EOP one crimpy move B.B
Rave Crave Area
- Elf & Safety - Fr. 6c *
Pull through the left side of the large overhang via a crack B.B
- Rave Crave/Rhubarb - Fr. 7a+ *
Dyno through the roof and continue direct with difficulty
- Meg(A) Skater Girl from Gelli - Fr. 6a
Grove and overlap starting at the right end of the overhang.
- Free Wales - VS,4b
The crack at the left-hand side of the main wall, above the graffiti of the same name.
- Missing Link - Fr. 6b+
The first bolted line via two pockets
- Demi Moore - Fr. 7a *
Next bolted line good moves via a pocket
- Gorki’s Zygotic Mynci - Fr. 6c+ **
The original and best route up the centre of the wall
- Just another one move wonder - Fr. 6b+
The final bolted line – Don’t use the crack!
- Traverse - E5,6b
There is a traverse along this main section starting up either the left or right bolt line and finishing up its counterpart.
- Nasty Norman - VS,4c
Not bad. The large central offwidth on this wall.
- Sniffing Debrah’s Pocket - E2,5c
Gain the large ledge to the right of the offwidth. Climb the wall above.
- Cenotaph Norm Carter - Fr. 6b*
Start from the Andy Capp graffiti and finish as for discount BB (soon to be rebolted)
- Discount included in the Price - Fr. 6a+ **
The longest route on the crag with a new direct finish. Very worthwhile.
- Baldy Walks to Ponty - Fr. 6a+
A direct version up the wall right of Discount.
- Rhondda Leader - Fr. 6a
The last line on the wall
- Michelle Pfeiffer - Fr. 6c *
The thin crack in the overhang wall is short and sweet
- Beef Curry and Chips - HVS,5b
The arête itself climbed on its right-hand side, PB.
- Saga Louts - Fr. 6a+
The wall 5 metres right of M.P is climbed direct
- Sir Kitt - V3
Good 10 metre traverse. Start from Meg (A). Traverse the obvious line with a long finishing move. Reverse and dyno through the rave crave overhang to get a nice V5
- Roaches Revisited - C.Evans solo 1992
- Beauty School Dro - A Sharp P Lewis 00/02/92
- Earl of Porth - A Sharp P Lewis 00/12/08
- Guto Nythbran - A Sharp P Lewis 00/01/09
Rave Crave Area
- Elf & Safety - A. Sharp & P.Lewis 27/12/08
- Rave Crave/Rhubarb - Chris Evans & Andy Sharp 00/00/92
- Meg(A) Skater Girl from Gelli - A Sharp & P Lewis 27/12/08
- Free Wales - M.Herbert, J.Carter & C.Evans 1992
- Missing Link - Chris Evans 1992
- Demi Moore - A Sharp & P Lewis 1992
- Gorki’s Zygotic Mynci - Chris Evans 1992
- Just another one move wonder - A Sharp 1992
- Traverse - Ant Hill Mob Pre-1995
- Nasty Norman - J.Carter, M.Herbert & C.Evans 1992
- Sniffing Debrah’s Pocket - C.Evans & R.Chard 1992
- Cenotaph Norm Carter -
- Discount included in the price - Chris Evans 1992 New Finish A. Sharp & P Lewis 00/12/08
- Baldy Walks to Ponty - Chris Evans 1992 Straightened Andy Sharp & Pete Lewis 00/12/08
- Rhondda Leader - A Sharp & P Lewis 00/01/09
- Michelle Pfeiffer - A Sharp & P Lewis 1992
- Beef Curry and Chips - C.Evans, A.Sharp & P.Lewis 08.02.1992
- Saga Louts - A Sharp & P Lewis 00/01/09
- Sir Kitt - A Sharp 00/12/08