Graig Fawr

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Graig Fawr
Rock Type Quarried Sandstone
Climbing Style Trad
Approach Time
Area Sandstone
Sub Area Sandstone Far Western Valleys
WGS-84 Location 51.566960, -3.734944
OS Grid Ref. SS 798 867
WGS-84 Parking Location
GR Parking Location
Parking Postcode SA13 2SY
Base Elevation 166 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction
Wind Sheltered
Climbing Type Normal
Crags Within 5.0 km

Abbey Buttress, Apple Tree Buttress, Brombil Woods Crag, Cwmafan, Graig Fawr


A good, if small crag situated above Margam Abbey. It is part quarried and part natural, but the rock is generally sound with some surprisingly strong and clean lines. There is a peg and thread belay set well back, descent paths on either side can be rather unnerving.


From Junction 38 of the M4, follow signposts for Margam Abbey and park in the obvious spot at the bend beneath the forestry track.

Follow the the path leading directly up the hill to a left turn along a level track. After approximately 300m, when you reach an area of boulders that look just like Fontainbleau in miniature, march uphill. The crag proper lies to the right of an obvious ivy covered buttress.

Access is sensitive, so a low profile is recommended.


Route 1
Routes 2 - 6
Routes 8 - 11
Routes 11 - 12
  1. Silf - HVS, 5a
    Takes the obvious rightward-curving crack on the left wall of the crag. From the half-height ledge follow a crack just left of the arête. 11m

  2. Monkey Business E2 6a
    Climb the arête on it's left,PR on crux starting section.

  3. Left Edge - E1, 5b
    Follow the square-cut arête on the left of the main face on its right-hand side for 8m then step left to finish. 11m

  4. Quercus - HS, 4a
    Climb the crack containing an oak sapling and follow the groove behind to finish, PB. 14m

  5. Antonia’s Route - VS, 4c
    Climb up the crack right of Quercus to join Owl Groove at the top overlap. 14m

  6. Owl Groove - VS, 4c *
    Follow the impressive central groove, left of the leaning wall. 14m

  7. Derbyshire Hiraeth - E2, 5b
    Right of Owl Groove is a jutting block at 2m. Use this to gain a v-groove, then a leftward-trending crack. 14m

  8. The Orangery - E1, 5b
    The straight crack to the right of Derbyshire Hiraeth. 14m

  9. Gorsedd Groove - S
    The right-facing corner has a tricky start and spaced protection.

  10. Gibbon - VS, 4b
    Start 3m right of Gorsedd Groove and climb directly up via various cracks. 14m

  11. Ivy Tilsley - HVS, 5a
    The arête right of The Gibbon. 14m

  12. But What about Bert?- E1, 5a
    Climb the pocketed wall immediately right of the arête, swinging left onto the arête after 8m. 12m.

  13. Brian Tilsley - VS, 4c
    The cracks in the wall to the right of the arête. 12m


To find your desired crag, type the name in to the Filter Markers box (top right corner of the map).

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First Ascents

  1. P.Boyd, A.Freem 00.00.1986
  2. R.Thomas & Harrovians 1990's ?
  3. A.Freem, P.Boyd 00.00.1986
  4. A.Freem, A.Freem 00.00.1986
  5. A.Freem, A.Freem 00.00.1986
  6. A.Freem, D.Owens 00.00.1986
  7. A.Freem 00.00.1982
  8. A.Freem, N.Gould 00.00.1986
  9. A.Freem, D.Owens 00.00.1986
  10. P.Boyd, D.Owens 00.00.1986
  11. N.O’Neill & The Old Harrovians 00.03.1993
  12. Martin Crocker (on-sight solo) 20.7.2008
  13. N.O’Neill & The Old Harrovians 00.03.1993