Crosskeys Quarry

Crosskeys Quarry
( Brook's Quarry )
Rock Type	Quarried Sandstone
Climbing Style	Sport/Trad
Approach Time
Area	Sandstone
Sub Area	Sandstone Eastern Valleys
Geodata
WGS-84 Location	51.632510, -3.124430
OS Grid Ref.	ST 222 932
WGS-84 Parking Location
GR Parking Location
Base Elevation	126 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction
Aspect
Wind Sheltered
Climbing Type
Seepage
Crags Within 5.0 km
Blaen Bran Quarry, Cox's Quarry, Crosskeys Quarry, Cwmcarn, Fernlea Slabs - Risca, Henllys Quarry, Sirhowy - Quarry Mawr, Tyle y Coch

PREAMBLE

A small quarry in Pontywaun/Cross Keys, which was first developed in the 90's but has recently been rediscovered by Nick Rocke after long being neglected. At the present time (February, 2024), Nick and other volunteers are clearing routes, rebolting and developing new lines. Be aware that at the moment there are paths cleared but some of the routes need a good clean, bolts checking and drier conditions and so best visited later in the year (2024). Please respect the bolted projects and leave any cleaning ropes and draws alone.

ACCESS

From J28 of the M4, follow (Forest Drive signposts) the A467 to a roundabout where the A4048 carries on to Wattsville (Bumpsville) and the A467 swings right to Brynmawr. Follow the A467 to the next roundabout and take the exit right.

Take the third left (next after the Forest Drive entrance) into a housing estate (Silver Street) and follow this road up to the third left (At Silver Street Store) into North Road. Park where the houses change from terraced to semi detached and walk up the hill (between the houses) for 50 m to land directly in the quarry. Map Of Gower and SE Wales

THE ROUTES

Short Left Wall

Has a number of uncompleted projects awaiting drier conditions

Left Side

1. Rock out with your Lock out - Fr. 6a
   Will improve with traffic. Shares belay with adjacent route.
   
   
2. Lock Stock & Two Broken Holds - Fr. 6a
   Still a little fresh. Shares belay on left.
   
   
3. Safe Cracker - Fr.5+
   Climb past tree root and mantle onto ledge avoiding any holds in the crack.
   
   

Left Side (Right)

First Big Buttress

Numberson topo will be out of sync with text until new pic used.

1. jon closed project
   Will send another pic with it on
   
   
2. jon closed
   not on present topo as to left of arete,shares belay
   
   
3. Project Closed
   Small roof and wall just right of the arête.
   
   
4. Cheesy Crack - VS,4c
   For those who like this sort of thing but be careful not to clip any bolts.
   
   
5. Pick Locks - Fr. 6b
   A short pillar and wall just right of the crack. Join the top part of the crack and share double ring lower off.
   
   
6. Skeleton Key - Fr. 6b
   Share first bolt of previous then up the centre of the wall to chain lower.
   
   
7. Closed Project
   Start higher up the brambly slope and climb the arête.
   
   

Second Buttress

Over to the right is another buttress, with an abandoned project up a blunt never-dry arête above an annoying forked silver birch "stump".

Second Buttress

1. Closed Project
   abandoned for 25 yrs now has a new suitor and possibly some new bolts.
   
   
2. Five Lever - Fr. 6b+
   The wall to the right of the blunt arête, starting up a thin cracks. Some nuts are needed but will be rebolted soon.
   
   
3. Locksmith - HVS,4c
   Gruesome crack,needs cleaning,share belay with previous.
   
   
4. Petersman - Fr. 6c
   The ivied wall to the right of Locksmith gives sustained climbing on small holds. Recently stripped of ivy and rebolted.
   
   

Right Hand Walls

Crosskeys Quarry Far Right Walls

1. Closed Project
   Rounded rib bolted green slab.
   
   
2. Wreckernoitre - VD
   Start in the hollow left of the obvious crack at the back of the quarry. Gain and follow the ramp to finish up the slab at the end of it. 14m.
   
   
3. Wreckernoitre Direct - S
   The direct start to Wreckernoitre with a tricky mantle to reach the gangway and slab. 9m.
   
   
4. Project
   Slab and short roof.
   
   
5. Closed Project
   The left arête to central rings.
   
   
6. Radovan Karadijc - Fr. 7a*
   The centre of the obvious smooth face on the right-hand wall of the quarry. 8m.
   
   
7. Lockdown - Fr. 6b/+ *
   The right arête which now has belay rings shared with the narrow slab. Sneaky holds round to the right but feet out L at this grade.
   
   
8. Lock Out - Fr. 4
   The narrow slab above the big ledge to shared rings.
   
   
9. Closed Project
   Bolted wall above ledge with tree stump.
   
   
10. Lock Don't Drop - Fr.6b+
    Wall left of ovious cleaned curving crack to shared belay.
    
    
11. Closed Project
    Curving cleaned crack.
    
    
12. Knob Lock - Fr. 6a+
    Wall R of crack to chain belay. Use of crack for left hand condoned and care with higher blocks recommended
    
    
13. Deadbolt - Fr. 6b
    The wall above the avoidable jammed boulder on friable holds after the second bolt. Shared belay.
    
    

First Ascents

Short Left Wall

1. Rock Out With Your Lockout - Nick Rocke & Lee James 2024
2. Lock Stock & Two Broken Holds - Nick Rocke 2024
3. Safe Cracker - Nick Rocke & Lee James 2024

First Buttress

1. Project Closed -
2. Cheesy Crack - Roy Thomas G.Davies 1998
3. Pick Locks - Roy Thomas 1999
4. Skeleton Key - Roy Thomas 1999
5. Closed Project -

Second Buttress

1. Closed Project
2. Five Lever - Roy Thomas G Ashmore 1999
3. Locksmith - Nick O'Neill 1999
4. Petersman - Roy Thomas Nick O'Neill G.Davies 1999
5. Closed Project -
6. Wreckernoitre - C.Shorrock solo 9th May.1995
7. Wreckernoitre Direct - M.Hirst solo 09.05.1995

Small Face

1. Closed Project -
2. Radovan Karadijc - G.Ashmore 17th October 1999
3. Lockdown -
4. Lock Out-

Far Right Walls

1. Closed Project -
2. Closed Project -
3. Closed Project -
4. Knoblock -
5. Deadbolt -

Additional Photos

• 

  Nick Rocke on Safe Cracker