Craig Cwm

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Craig Cwm
( Craig Cefn Parc )
Cragshot Craig Cwm-1920x.jpg
Rock Type Quarried Sandstone
Climbing Style Sport/Trad
Approach Time 2 minutes
Area Sandstone
Sub Area Sandstone Far Western Valleys
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.729960, -3.911298
OS Grid Ref. SN 681 052
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.727291, -3.909532
GR Parking Location SN 682 049
Parking Postcode SA6 5RY
Base Elevation 236 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction East
Aspect Partially Sunny
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type Normal
Midge Problem Moderate
Seepage Needs a short dry spell
Crags Within 5.0 km

Craig Alltacham, Craig Cwm, Craig y Pal-Glais, Gelliwastad, Graigola



Craig Cwm
Sport Grades
<= 6a+ 15
6b - 6c+ 23
7a - 7b 1
>= 7b+ 0
Craig Cwm
Trad Grades
<= HVS 9
E1 - E3 15
E4 - E5 0
>= E6 0

BOLTING POLICY

Old quarry.

PREAMBLE

Head towards the setting sun at the end of Gwyn's road. A recent discovery by Matt Woodfield with Giles Davis assisting with developement. A super location in a rural valley just off the M4.

ACCESS

On CRoW Access Land designated as an urban common.

DO NOT block the cattle grid, gates or bridleway as you will seriously inconvenience the local community. The road is narrow and parking limited. Do not park in gateways or inconsiderately. If more than 2 cars, plan ahead, park in the village and share a car.

Park in the lay-by on the right, 250m before the cattle grid. You can turn beneath the crag after dropping kit off.

Walk up the road past the old crusher plant to a ripple-bedded boulder, then head a short way uphill to the crag.

THE ROUTES

Left Hand Bay

Left-hand Bay

Above the high grass ledge left of the Tottering Tower is a bulging and slabby wall.

  1. A road - Fr. 6b
    Belay under large tree.

  2. B road - Fr. 6b
    The wall to the R.

  3. Road to Lostwithiel - Fr. 6c
    Bulge.

  4. Road Trip - E2, 5c
    Corner crack.

Tottering Tower and Rowan Tree Slab

  1. Road to Damascus - Fr. 6b+ ***
    Left arête of tower, excellent reachy and technical bouldery moves gain the shared belay.No straying into the crack on the left at this grade.

  2. The Road to Mandalay - Fr 6c **
    The R. arête of the Tottering Tower. Fun moves lead to the technical-edging upper wall and shared belay. Easier for the tall.

  3. Road to Ruin - Fr. 5+
    Left side of slab after a scrappy start. Some nice tricky moves on the wall.

  4. Rowan Road Slab - Fr. 5
    Short slab starting right of the large rowan tree. Avoid contact with the tree at this grade. No pushover.

Main Wall

Main Wall and Right Bay
Photo: Matt Woodfield
Topo Craig Cwm Main Wall Left Side-optimised.jpg
  1. Projects
    Left side crag, clip first two bolts then climb above grassy ledge. (Another project goes straight up at the 4th bolt).

  2. Dark Side of The Road - Fr. 6a+
    Shares the first few bolts of "the projects". Follow rattly flakes in the middle of the wall until it steepens then move R to crack with difficulty (loose block now absent), belay shared with next route.

  3. Road Blockers - Fr. 6b+ **
    The slender slab sandwiched between the chimney and flake then the blocky roof with care. Stick to the slab and left arê of the chimney,grovelling in the shale break can be avoided at the final roof by creative use of holds on R. Burly approach needed.

  4. The Crack of Doom - E2, 5b
    The lefthand crack/chimney has a tricky move at the pod and a burly finish. The in-situ hex once belonged to John Syrett.

  5. Enema of Doom - Fr. 6b+ **
    Links Illinois to clip up section of Crack.

  6. The Safe Road to The Illinois Enema Bandit - Fr. 6b+ **
    The short slab right of the chimney finishing just right of the blocky roof. Placing supplmentary trad gear between bolts is just not permitted and jolly bad form.

  7. Road Wars - Fr. 6c **
    Short slab between two cracks. Avoid using flake at exit vigorously.

  8. Slip Road - Fr. 6c
    Squeezed in just left of the crack, 3rd runner sling on tree stump (owing to the theft of the sling a bolt has been placed). Avoid wandering of onto the previous route continue direct to shared belay.

  9. Catch of The Day - E3, 5c
    Tree stump crack tricky move out R. to belay.

  10. Closed Road - Fr. 6c **
    Quality edge climbing just R. of crack.

  11. On the Road - Fr. 6c **
    Launch out L. from the central crack or be a hero and go direct.

  12. Pillar of The Community - El, 5b
    The crack via large flake. Don't pull outwards. Stand on this then rattle on up to the belay.

  13. Gwyn's Road - Fr. 6b **
    L. side of scoops.

  14. Road Kill - Fr. 6b+ **
    Two scoops.

  15. Lone Road - Fr. 5+
    R. side of mainwall, skip from scoop to ledge. 10m.

  16. Side Road - Fr. 6a
    Branch off right to high belay at the ledge on previous route.

  17. Flyover - Fr. 6a
    The left hand line at the top of the steep ramp on the right of the wall has a tough start.

  18. Expressway - Fr. 6a+
    The right hand line at the top of the steep ramp on the right of the wall. Tough for the first half.

Right Bay

20m to the R is an undercut bay and a blunt fin of rock with a deep chimney.

Right Bay
  1. Back Road - Fr. 5
    Left side of arête.

  2. Anaphylactic Arête - Fr. 6b
    The L arête starting high up the slope on large wobbly boulder.

  3. Gordon Sumners Coccyx?? - Fr. 7a
    Centre of wall.

  4. Apoplectic Arête - Fr. 6c+
    The R arête to a shared belay on the L.

  5. Left Road - E2, 5b*
    The gruesome crack.

  6. High Road - Fr. 6b
    The bulging slab starting at the large drilled hole.

  7. Right Road - HVS, 5a
    Bridge up into the gloomy depths then launch out into the crack.

  8. Low Road - Fr. 6a+*
    Blunt arête of fin. No stepping across chimney at this grade.

  9. By Road - Fr. 6a*
    The wall of fin.

  10. Rocky Road - E2, 5c**
    Short and sweet

    A few metres right is another short wall.
    The block with two trad routes


  11. One Last Squeeze - E2, 6a
    The crack in the front of the bloc then trying moves over the small roof. Absolutely no using the killer block suspended under the roof. Go buy a bigger crowbar if you don't like it.

  12. The last Gasp - E2, 5c
    The right side of the arête avoiding the use of the rectangular block on the L.

Off to the right are a series of walls and buttresses above the common ground

Right Hand Walls

The first significant feature here is....

Waspy Wall

1st significant wall out right on the common.

Waspy Wall
  1. Bee Gone - Fr. 6b
    Wall L. of the arête. Share belay on right.

  2. Buzz Off - Fr. 6b+
    Arête of short block down and L. of the Waspy Wall. Short but bouldery.

  3. I'll Bee Damned - Fr. 6a+
    R. wall of the block starting from the base of the arête.

  4. Closed Project
    Bolted wall, beehive belay.

  5. Bee's Knees - HVS, 5a
    Crack to shared belay.

  6. The Big Sting - E1, 5b *
    The central crack.

  7. Woke Anglo Saxon Protestant - Fr. 6c+
    Steep wall R. of cracks.

  8. Worker's Crack - E3. 6a *
    Get some skin (lost) in the game. Gnarly crack to final roof and shared belay L. of the arête.

    from Drone on and rightwards.
  9. Drone On - Fr. 6b+ **
    The arête, burly start leads to final roof. The tree is out at this grade.

  10. Major Trunk Line - HS, 4b
    The corner with large beech tree.

  11. Beeching Closure - Fr. 6b **
    Wall R. of corner start off tottering ledge.

  12. Missing Branch Line - Fr. 6b **
    Left arê of box chimney passing sickly tree to shared belay on left.

  13. Shunting Yard - HVS, 5b
    Squirm into the box chimney then gain the crack.Heave on the rotten root to gain shared belay on R.

  14. Under the Axe - Fr. 5c
    Wall R of chimney

Set Back Slabs

To the right the next developed sector consists of SET BACK SLABS and to the right of a wide be-honey suckled chimney 3 crack lines.
Topo SetBackSlabs left.jpg
  1. Common Area - E1, 5b
    Short crack to tree and one bolt L.O..

  2. Common as Muck - HVS, 5a
    L.H. line up slab. Surprise crimp move near the top.

  3. Common Cause - VS, 4c
    Just L of the wide chimney to the tree.

    Topo SetBackSlabs right.jpg
  4. Common Stock - VS, 4c
    Just right of chimney,thin crack with a tricky start

  5. Common Knowledge - V.Diff
    Wide crack

  6. Common Land - VS, 4c
    Another crack

  7. Filthy Commoner - Fr. 5
    Wall left of the rotten tree. Carefully creak over the low roof then proceed upwards (hopefully). A true anti-classic. Enjoy.

Commoner's Arête Buttress

50m R is a striking arête

Commoners' Arête Buttress
  1. Cwm Moaner - Fr. 6a+
    Short wall with ledge.

  2. Cwm On Then - Fr. 6b+ *
    Short bouldery arête to shared belay.

  3. Common Cold Fr 5c
    The chimney steepening to oak tree.Care advised and thoughtful choice of holds in the upper blocky section.

  4. Common Ground - Fr. 6a
    The left side of arête.

  5. Commoner's Arête - E1, 5b
    The striking stepped arête

  6. Commoner's Crack - E1, 5b
    The well-protected crack and wall R. of arête.

Neighbourhood Watch Buttress

The far right side of the crag, 100m along from the corner of the walled enclosure, almost opposite the house.

Neighbourhood Watch Buttress
Neighbourhood Watch Buttress
  1. In Direct- Fr. 5
    The left route, with a tricky reach to finish.

  2. Neighbourhood Watch - Fr. 5+
    The right route goes steeply up the flakes.

Bouldering on the Common

Scattered along the edge behind the enclosure wall are a sprinkling of areas with bouldering possibilities

  1. Dead Leg - f5
    The left side of the bloc.

  2. Leg Over - f5
    The zig zag crack.

  3. Leggit - f6a
    The undercut arête.

  4. Legless - f5
    The R side of bloc.

Big Tree Block

Almost opposite the gate of the last house in the neighbourhood

Craig Cwm, Big Tree Block.  Photo: Carl Ryan
Big Tree Block
Photo: Carl Ryan
  1. Backdoor Crack - HS,4b
    The wide crack on the left. Clipping of any nearby bolts strictly forbidden. Lower off with ab rope; do a lot of digging to top out or just wait for a lower off to appear. Maybe just don't bother as it's a trad route.

  2. Loopy Loo - Fr. 6a
    Overhanging start to next route just R of the crack.

  3. The Sad Mad Professor - Fr. 6a
    Directly behind the big tree up the arête.

  4. Common Deviation - Fr. 6a+
    The flake under the starting roof then up the wall to the shared belay on the R.

  5. Commendable Arête - HS,4b
    The short but pleasant R arête, small wires.

Pillar of Wisdom

Opposite the last house gates. The free standing pillar above the backfilled drift mine workings. (51.7332, -3.91275 - SN 680 055).

Pillar of Wisdom, Craig Cwm.  Photo: Carl Ryan
Pillar of Wisdom
Photo: Carl Ryan
Pillar of Wisdom, Craig Cwm
Pillar of Wisdom
  1. The Leering Tower of Pizza - Fr. 6a+ **
    The narrow edge of the pillar. Start from the base, no sneaking in from the chimney at this grade.

  2. Death Ray Matthews - E3,6a *
    From the shelf on the L gain the first break with a long reach/slap. Arrange a lot of gear at the second break then break out onto the top wall. Once again long reach/slap for crimpy ripples. Probably not destined for popularity in these parts but easy to reach round and top rope from previous.

  3. Things in common E2 5c
    Left of the ivy-choked chimney.A determined push needed in the final dash for the belay. Try not to screw it up.

  4. Pain In The Arse - Fr. 5
    Just right of the hanging curtain of ivy

  5. Arse Wiper's Chimney - V.Diff
    Take a brush, you can't always have it on a plate. Dig the exit out yourself or suffer eternal damnation by using the adjacent LOs. Sure to improve with traffic.😂🤣

  6. Common Slattern - Fr. 5+ *
    Wall immediately R of chimney to belay under tree.

  7. Looey Goes Cuckoo - Fr. 6a+
    Crack and roof.

  8. Sciatica Shuffle - Fr. 5+
    Steep start through former crud. Hopefully devoted locals will bring a brush.

  9. Bearded Commoners - Fr. 6a+
    Just left of the zig-zag crack starting off the high shelf by the wonky fence post. Short but steep.

  10. Zig Zag Crack - HS,4b
    Take care with the horrifying block which stubbornly has stayed in place and, of course, resist all nearby temptations. For the full glow of trad satisfaction dig the exit out yourself or revisit the style of the 80's (a la Llangattock) and lower off your prefixed ab rope.

  11. Swansong - Fr. 5
    Short rib left of tree.

  12. Curtain Call - Fr. 5+
    Left of the horizontal oak to roof crack.

  13. Nick's Dripping Pipe - Fr. 5
    Just left of the big oak. The tree is not in at this grade.

First Ascents

Left Hand Bay

  1. A Road - Giles Davis 2020
  2. B Road - Giles Davis 2020
  3. Road to Lostwithiel - Giles Davis & Andrew Peterken. March 2021
  4. Unnamed - Giles Davis & R.Thomas May 2021


Tottering Tower and Rowan Slab

  1. Damascus - Giles Davies & Anita Davies Oct 2021
  2. Mandalay - Roy Thomas Sept 2021
  3. Road Ruin - Roy Thomas & Nick O'Neill Aug 2021
  4. Rowan Road - Roy Thomas & Gareth Torrance Aug 2021


Central Main Bay

  1. Projects -
  2. Dark Side of The Road - G.Davis & R.Thomas 2020
  3. Road Blockers - Roy Thomas & G.Davies 2021
  4. Crack of Doom - Matt Wòodfield, Roy Thomas & Goi Ashmore Aug 2021
  5. Enema Doom - Roy Thomas July 2021
  6. The Safe Road to The Illinois Enema Bandit - Roy Thomas 2021
  7. Road Wars - Roy Thomas Nick & O'Neill 2020
  8. Slip Road - Roy Thomas & G.Ashmore 2020
  9. Catch of the Day - Matt Woodfield April 2021
  10. Closed Road - Roy Thomas & Nick O'Neill 2020
  11. On the Road - Roy Thomas 2020
  12. Pillar of The Community - Matt Woodfield & R.Thomas 2020
  13. Gwyn's Road - Roy Thomas & Matt Woodfield 2020
  14. Road Kill - Roy Thomas & Matt Woodfield 2020
  15. Lone Road Roy Thomas & Matt Woodfield 2020
  16. Side Road - Roy Thomas & Nick O'Neill 2020
  17. Flyover - Matt Woodfield 2021
  18. Expressway - Matt Woodfield 2021


Right Bay

  1. Back Road - Roy Thomas & Giles Davis 2020
  2. Anaphalactic - G. Ashmore & R.Thomas 2020
  3. Gordon Sumner's Coccyx?? - G.Ashmore & Taj Dhallu May 2021
  4. Apoplectic Arête - G.Ashmore & Roy Thomas 2021
  5. Left Road - Nick O'Neill & Roy Thomas
  6. High Road - Roy Thomas & Nick O Neill
  7. Right Road - Nick O'Neill & Roy Thomas 2020
  8. Low Road - R.Thomas & Nick O'Neill 2020
  9. By Road - R.Thomas & Nick O'Neill 2020
  10. Rocky Road - Roy Thomas & Nick O'Neill 2020
  11. The last Gasp - Roy Thomas & Taj Dhallu May 2021
  12. Squeeze - Roy Thomas, Taj Dhallu & Phil McAvity May 2021


Waspy Wall

  1. Bee Gone - Roy Thomas March 2021
  2. Buzz Off - Roy Thomas & A.R. Andom March 2021
  3. I'll Bee Damned - Roy Thomas & Eben Myrddin Muse March 2021.
  4. Closed Project - G.Davis
  5. Bee's Knees - G.Davis 31st March 2021
  6. The Big Sting - Roy Thomas & Goi Ashmore 2020
  7. W.A.S.P - Goi Ashmore & R.Thomas G.Davis
  8. Worker's Crack - Roy Thomas & G.Ashmore March 2021.
  9. Drone On - Roy Thomas & G.Ashmore March 2021.
  10. Major Trunk Line - Nick O'Neill & Ed Chapman May 2021
  11. Beeching Closure - Roy Thomas, N.Obend & Giles Davis May 2021
  12. Missing Branch Line - Roy Thomas, B Ellend & Nick O'Neill May 2021
  13. Shunting Yard - Roy Thomas, P.Hillock & S.Troker May 2021
  14. Under the Axe - Roy Thomas & Giles Davis


Set Back Slabs

  1. Common Area - Giles Davis & S.Punker
  2. Common as Muck - Roy Thomas & F.Orskine, Giles Davis
  3. Common Cause - Roy Thomas & C. Heesey, Giles Davis
  4. Common Stock - Giles Davis & Tess Tickle
  5. Common Knowledge - Giles Davis May 21
  6. Common Land - Giles Davis May 21
  7. Filthy Commoner - Roy Thomas, W.Anker & S.Troker May 2021


Commoners' Arête Buttress

  1. Cwm Moaner - Roy Thomas & Goi Ashmore 31.03.2021
  2. Cwm On Then - Roy Thomas & G.Ashmore 2021
  3. Common Cold - Roy Thomas, Huw Janus & Ed Chapman 2021
  4. Common Ground - Roy Thomas & G.Ashmore 31st March 2021
  5. Commoner's Arête - Roy Thomas & G.Ashmore 31st March 2021
  6. Commoner's Crack - Roy Thomas March 2021


Neighbourhood Watch Buttress

  1. In Direct - Steff Jacob & Matt Woodfield 2022
  2. Neighbourhood Watch - Matt Woodfield & Steff Jacob 2022


Bouldering on the Common

  1. Dead Leg -
  2. Leg Over -
  3. Leggit -
  4. Legless -


Big Tree Block

  1. Backdoor Crack -
  2. Loopy Loo -
  3. The Sad Mad Professor -
  4. Common Deviation -
  5. Commendable Arête - Roy Thomas, Gandalf & Joe. May 2023


Pillar of Wisdom

  1. The Leering Tower of Pizza -
  2. Death Ray Matthews - Roy Thomas 2023
  3. Things in Common -
  4. Pain In The Arse - S. Crotum, Nick O'Neil & Ed Rees June 2023
  5. Arse Wiper's Chimney -
  6. Common Slattern - Roy Thomas & Goi Ashmore 2023
  7. Looey Goes Cuckoo -
  8. Sciatica Shuffle - B.Ellend, Ed Rees & Nick O'Neil
  9. Bearded Commoners - Roy Thomas, Ed Rees & Nick O'Neil. May 2023
  10. Zig Zag Crack -
  11. Swansong -
  12. Curtain Call -
  13. Nick's Dripping Pipe -

ADDITIONAL PHOTOS

Video

Roy on his new route at Craig Cwm, Big Tree Block.


Roy at Craig Cwm, Big Tree Block.

Notes