Sugardaddy Gasworks

Sugardaddy Gasworks
Rock Type	Quarried Sandstone
Climbing Style	Sport
Approach Time
Area	Sandstone
Sub Area	Sandstone Western Valleys
Geodata
WGS-84 Location	51.571104, -3.3497518
OS Grid Ref.	ST 065 866
WGS-84 Parking Location
GR Parking Location
Base Elevation	163 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction
Aspect
Wind Sheltered
Climbing Type
Seepage
Crags Within 5.0 km
Brittania Quarry, Coed Ely, Coedcaerau-bach, Glynfach, Golf Club Crag, Llantrisant Drugs Cliff, Porth, Punk Rocks, Sugardaddy Gasworks, The Darren, Trehafod, Tyn-y-coed

BOLTING POLICY

Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentionists permission. New sports route allowed. Please help your selves to the projects, even the bolted ones. All 'projects' can be considered free for the taking.

PREAMBLE

A small quarry of good sandstone. The back areas take a long time to dry.

ACCESS

NGR: ST 06609 86601

51.571104, -3.3497518

Located in the woods to the rear of Beddau Coking Works. Park by the housing in front of the Coke Works. The track along the west side of the former Coke Works is a Public Right of Way (but not for vehicles). Follow this to the rear of the coke works where the road goes through a gate, curves left. After the curve a track goes up the slight slope. Follow this through some trees. The track continues and a left branch leads eventually to a pond - ignore this branch - soon after the path crosses a stream (often dry) and after one can see a slight valley to the left. Follow this into the quarry. If you pass an old electricity building you've walked too far.

DESCENT

All routes have lower-offs or adjacent lower-offs.

ROUTES

Topo Enrtance Wall

Described from left to right.

Entrance Wall

1. Little Licker - Fr. 5
   Short wall in left side of quarry.
   
   
2. Lolita's Lolly - Fr. 6a
   Delicate pockety.
   
   
3. Barnacle Bills' Masturbatarium Fr 6c)
   Sustained climbing up the thin crack.
   
   
4. Beef Honeycombe - Fr. 6b
   Pocketed wall above the stump, over the small roof on its left side.
   
   
5. Daddy Still Loves You - Fr. 6a+
   Follow the series of small ledges to the left of the arête, over the small roof.

SECOND WALL

Around the arête lies the taller, slightly overhanging Second Wall.

1. Project
   
   
2. Project
   
   
3. Yosemite Clam - (A1/A2)
   The leaning crack at the back of the second wall suffers seepage but offers entertaining aid climbing. Ascend the crack past the small roof to lower-off. Requires thin knifeblade pitons.

Second Wall

Right-Hand Slabs

In the right of the quarry lies a large slab.

1. Project (~ Fr. 6c)
   The delicate route up the left of the slab
   
   
2. Project (~ Fr. 6a)
   Spidermans' Special Web Soup for the Removal of Persistant Bat Stains from Robin Down. The pocketed line up the small overlap running up the slab.

Back Wall

Further delights may reside in the damp vegetated recesses at the back of the quarry.

FIRST ASCENTS

Entrance Wall

1. R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 21/05/2011
2. R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 14/05/2011
3. D. Emanuel
4. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 14/05/2011
5. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 14/05/2011

Second Wall

1. Project - D. Emanuel
2. Project - D. Emanuel

Right-Hand Slabs

1. Project - D. Emanuel
2. Project - D. Emanuel
3. Project - D. Emanuel