Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd

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Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd
( The Frank Sinatra Memorial Cliff )
Chris Shorrock On Jupiter and Mars. Photo courtesy of Mark Salter.
Chris Shorrock On Jupiter and Mars. Photo courtesy of Mark Salter.
Rock Type Quarried Sandstone
Climbing Style Sport/Trad
Approach Time 20 minutes
Area Sandstone
Sub Area Sandstone Western Valleys
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.637311, -3.320671
OS Grid Ref. ST 087 939
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.642739, -3.3236244
GR Parking Location ST 085 946
Parking Postcode CF45 4RS
Base Elevation 194 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction West
Aspect Sunny
Wind Sheltered Seldomly
Climbing Type Normal
Midge Problem Moderate
Seepage Quick drying
Crags Within 5.0 km.

Abercynon High Buttress, Golf Club Crag, Mount Pleasant, Mount Pleasant (X2), Mountain Ash, Mountain Ash Natural Buttress, Mountain Ash West, Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd, Penrhiwceiber Quarry, Senghenydd, The Darren, The Gap, Trehafod, Ynysboeth, Ynysybwl Lady Windsor Quarry, Ynysybwl Upper Quarry

BMC RAD
RAD Notice/Restriction Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd@BMC RAD




BOLTING POLICY

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission.

Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.

New sports routes allowed.

PREAMBLE

A climber on "Death Wish"
Climber on Deathwish

A wonderful aspect and high quality rock were probably the reasons that The Navigation was one of the first sandstone quarries to be developed, way back in the early 80’s.

The crag lies 1 ½ km north of the village of Cilfynydd within Craig Evan-Leyshon Common at approximately 200 m OD. The main wall overlooks the wooded flanks of Pen y Foel to the west, However the grassed spoil heaps at the quarry’s entrance block this view from the floor. The range of grades allows mixed ability groups to enjoy themselves equally and the vibe here is always friendly.

The enclosed amphitheatre like layout means that even on the coldest clearest days of winter The Navigation is a suntrap like no other in the area. Unlike many of the nearby quarried sandstone venues, the seepage lines dry quickly and the midges are scarce, two real bonuses.

The wide back wall is over 20 metres high and is predominantly slabby with a number of distinct ledges, formed by intermittent shale bands. This means the climbs tend to contain bouldery sections with good rests between them. As such, the grades of the climbs here can be baffling on first acquaintance, although after a while you will find they relate to each other well. Those with strong fingers and flexible hips will flourish here whereas the stamina monsters will find their talent counts for little.

Recent re-gearing and retro-bolting has been undertaken, (see Navigation Quarry - The Evolution of a Modern Sports Climbing Venue) so that no Mix and Match routes remain and are now either full sport routes with lower offs or trad routes, with belays available at the top of the crag.

See you there.

ACCESS

Drive up the A470 to the roundabout beyond Abercynon and go back down the A4054. Just by the first set of traffic lights encountered from the north (or first out of Cilfynydd coming from the south) is a raised parking area on the opposite corner. One could park here but it is now fenced off. But you can park on the opposite side of the junction (limited spaces) or any of these places too.

ST 08438 94788, 308438, 194788, 51.644405, -3.3246732, CF45 4SB
ST 08393 94806, 308393, 194806, 51.644562, -3.3253169, CF45 4SB
ST 08507 94601, 308507, 194601, 51.642739, -3.3236244, CF45 4RS


Go through the metal gate opposite and follow the old asphalt road/track until it widens and trees thin. A tight switchback through gorse bushes leads up the hill for 50m and then switches back again. Head for a telegraph pole visible over the brow and follow the old tram line up until the quarry comes into view on the left.

Or you can park at either of these spots if you are adventurous.

ST 09212 93111, 309212, 193111, 51.629463, -3.3130538, CF37 4HN
ST 09008 94904, 309008, 194904, 51.645547, -3.3164549, CF37 4HP

DESCENTS

Bolt belays are available at the top of the crag but almost all of the sport routes have individual bolt belays. Walking off either side of the quarry is straightforward in the extreme.

THE ROUTES

LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL

The left hand retaining wall of the quarry is somewhat disappointing.

  1. Leftover - Fr. 4
    The first bolt line on the left hand retaining wall of the quarry accessing a high arête. The wide shale band at half height spoils an otherwise solid climb.

There are 5 easy shorter routes bolted with small children in mind as this crag is proving a child friendly venue.

  1. Threadsearch Fr 4
    Shared belay with next route.

  2. Octopod Fr 3+
    Another child friendly route.

The next 3 routes share a common L.O and are sure to be rebolted in a friendly way to train up the stars of the future.

  1. Tweak F4 **
    The L hand of the trio.

  2. Kwazii Fr 4 *
    Central line not quite as amazing as it's partners.

  3. Captain Barnacles Fr 4c**
    Stiff little number.

  4. Expanded Mole Groove - HVS, 5a
    Unknown, but undoubtedly overgrown.

  5. Gold Block - Fr. 6a
    Start 3 m left of the main corner. Climb to a threaded shot hole at 5 m. Climb the arête above to a large ledge at 15 m. Step left to finish up a steep groove and crack. Lower off currently missing.
    1. Variation Gold Block alt. finish - Fr. 6a+. At 15 m head left to climb an overhanging crack, to chain L.O.
    2. Variation Kestrel Groove - HVS, 4c. Step right to avoid arête and rejoin Gold Block at 15 m.

MAIN WALL – LEFT HAND SLABS

This wall starts off with a black slab, capped by a grassy terrace at 12m. Two routes start from the grassy terrace.

  1. How I Wrote Elastic Man - Fr. 7a+ *
    The wall left of Elastic Retreat is harsh on the fingers. More reasonable for the very tall. Top out and belay on the distant back wall. No hangers on belay bolt so come prepared or use L.O. on Elastic Retreat.

  2. The Elastic Retreat - Fr. 6c+
    Gain the grassy ledge. Climb the crack, left of the Squash Match ramp, to a roof and overcome it using a very thin hold. 3 Bolts. L.O. 7 m.

    All other routes start from ground level.

  3. Project
    Empty holes at the moment, awaiting dryness.

  4. Peg Bristol - E5, 6a
    Very tenuous and scantily clad – the first wall is effectively a solo. Start 2m right of the corner of Gold Block under a black sheet. Step up to ledges and hand place a peg (long blade) in a small pocket at full extension. There is an obvious inset hold in the slab, climb immediately to its left with a big scary rock-up using a micro-edge and finger-tip mono. From the break take the left-most diagonal crack. Finish at will. 12 m.

  5. Half Man, Half Machine - Fr. 6b
    What does it mean? Climb the black groove (possibly with a minor diversion to the arête). At the main break, shuffle leftward and stretch over the bulge to decent holds (don't miss the mother-of-all kneebars!). Rock up onto the slab and finish easily up the diagonal crack. 6 bolts. L.O. 12 m.

  6. Code of the Road - E1, 5a
    A full height route, which the sensible will pre-inspect, brush and possibly descale. Climb the blunt rightward trending arête to a thin shale band. Continue boldly up the slab and crack, a large Cam in a pocket is your first (and only) runner (PR missing). From the grassy ledge take the stepped corner on the left, then the rightward slanting crack. Abseil as for Gold Block (currently missing) or walk off. 20 m.

  7. Bootylicious - Fr. 5+
    A steep start, right of the arête, leads to a pocketed slab. L.O. before ledge. 5 bolts. L.O. 12 m.

  8. Rockover Beethoven - Fr. 5+
    Climb the crack bounded pedestal and black slab. 5 bolts. Shared L.O. 12 m.

  9. The Bolt Fund Blues - Fr. 6b+ *
    Gain the top of a short pyramidal nose, beneath the first bolt, and without deviation to Rockover, head straight up to the sharp 'V' notch. From the ledge take the bulge and headwall direct. 8 bolts. Abseil. 20 m.

    topo for Navigation Quarry Left-Hand Slabs
    Navigation Quarry LHS
  10. Where Did You Get That Bolt - Fr. 7a
    Right again is an obvious pocket, gain this dynamically (run?), then make a second big dyno up and right for a flat edge. Skirt the small cave on Squash Match, and continue making a hard move to the hidden borehole above the overlap. From the ledge follow bolts to the belay of Blood Sweat & Beers. L.O .

  11. Good Sweat and Jeers - Fr. 6a+
    Start just left of Squash Match gain the left side of the hole, continue direct up the slab to an overlap. Make a tricky move right to the borehole on Blood, Sweat and Beers', finish as for that route. L.O.

  12. Squash Match - Fr. 6a
    Move leftward from the 'GEENY' ledge to a small cave at 6m. Follow a thin crack above then move left into a ‘V’ notch, (numerous bolts). Mantle onto the grassy terrace. Climb the left to right trending ramp to finish or mantle onto it closer to the bolt but harder.Top out to belay on sturdy fixtures. 25 m.

  13. Blood, Sweat and Beers - Fr. 6b *
    Start below a weakness in the mid height overhang. Find crimps above the roof and stretch leftward to a hidden borehole on the lip of the rounded break. Walk carefully rightward across a shale band to the base of a shallow groove in the blocky headwall (possible small friends) and finish up this. L.O. 21 m.

  14. Geeny - Fr. 6a+
    The slab above 'GEENY' graffiti then move R to the top of the narrow left facing corner and blocky headwall. L.O. 21 m.

  15. Death Match (Direct Finish) - Fr. 5
    The left facing corner.

  16. Death Twitch / Death Wish - Fr. 6a
    The blunt arête then move left (Death Twitch) or right (Death Wish) to finish.

  17. Fly Me to the Moon - VS, 5a **
    Start right of NOG JHONNY. Gain the obvious big flake crack and follow it to pocketed strata and a thin crack above (BR). Small cams protect the crux moves over the roof and onto the headwall (BR), which is plastered in superb jugs. Abseil. 21 m.

  18. A Blank Abstract - Fr. 7a
    Thin moves are required to pass through CHOC MAVINC. Easier climbing up the right side of the slab leads to the shared belay out to the right of the cave. L.O. 21 m.

  19. Man Or Mouse - Fr. 7b *
    Very bouldery Start below a black drainage streak. Make two tasty rockovers to pass a BR and lunge rightward to gain the shale band. Follow the slab directly above on small edges to gain a ledge and a simple finish. 6 bolts. L.O. 21 m.

  20. Craxsploitation - Fr. 6b+ **
    Long slab (often wet) with a blind crack in its middle portion. 21 m.

  21. Let Me Play Among The Stars - E2, 5c **
    Last of the classic Navigation mix and match fare. Take the flake crack (fallen down 2022 and in need of a clean up) to the right of Craxploitation to a ledge, and then the right-hand of the two parallel cracks (2 BRs), crux. Finish up the centre of the slab above via some shot holes (new PR and a good horizontal wire). Abseil or L.O. on adjacent routes. 21 m.

  22. My Way - Fr. 6a+
    Clip the convenient bolts of Craxspoilation then traverse left to the groove of Abstract finishing direct over the newly bolted overhang above the old Raven's nest.21m.

topo for Navigation Quarry centre
Navigation (Centre)

CENTRAL WALL

The terrace and shale band at 2/3 rd’s height now peters out. The wall becomes more continuous and increasingly steep with a mid height overhang marking the routes Western Front Direct and Eastern Bloc Rock. Wandering old trad lines have been greyed out in the text to avoid confusion.

  1. Deus Ex Machina - Fr. 6c **
    Lurking above the arched overlap is a tricky little slab with three closely spaced bolts. From the shaley ledge, a long and pleasant romp leads to more thin climbing at a steepening just before the finish. L.O. 21 m.

  2. Black Magic - Fr. 6b **
    Climb a thin blind crack to a series of ledges. From the main ledge, tackle the centre of the bulge using a thin crack. Finish just left of the capping overhang. L.O. 22 m.

  3. The Relaxed Ladybird - Fr. 6c **
    Start at PLOD and gain a ledge at 8 m. A couple of thin pulls are required to pass the bulge at half height (crux). Above the final strip roof is a large pocket, inches below the top of the cliff.There were reports of movement in the lower off so if concerned top out and find a belay. 21 m.

    climber on "Craxploitation", Navigation Quarry
    Craxploitation
  4. Ladybird - E3, 5c
    Now fairly well protected. Start as for the previous route (BRs) to a leftward trending ramp, at the end of the ramp make an awkward move to a ledge (PR). Further ledges lead rightward to a blank looking wall. Finish boldly and with difficulty, up the obvious corner forming a weakness in the capping overhangs.

  5. Relax - E2, 5b
    From where Ladybird saunters off left, move up to a BR, then right following a line of jugs across Great Expectations, then up and right into Western Front to finish. There may be just enough bolts within reach to justify this line having a sports grade.

  6. Great Expectations - Fr. 6c+ **
    And the route lives up to them. A series of entertaining boulder problems between resting ledges. Leave a bit of gas in the tank for a pull over the final roof. L.O.

  7. Western Front - E4, 6a
    Climb a groove between JIMMY and SPUD. Go up easily rightward (PRs missing) to a ledge. Move back leftward above the overhangs passing a borehole and finish up the obvious crack in the headwall.

  8. Western Front Direct - Fr. 7a ***
    Most peoples candidate for the route of the quarry. Climb easy ground to the roof, then make long dynamic moves from side pulls to breach it. Attack the cracked headwall with gusto, as the difficulties ease with height. L.O. 20 m.

  9. Eastern Bloc Rock - Fr. 7a+ **
    The other route of the quarry. The big slab with three consecutive overhangs. Take the overhangs direct, the second and narrowest of which provides the main difficulty. Abseil. 23 m.

  10. Tears for Smears - E1, 5b
    Start as for Western Front and continue rightward to reach the ledge shared by Goblin Girl and Let Me Know What... Ascend the corner for 6m then pull out right to the arête. Finish rightward.

  11. Dry Entry - Fr. 5+
    A pitch to the mid height ledge, also a good alternative entry for those who like it dry if the Goblin Girl is too moist.

  12. Goblin Girl - Fr. 6b+ *
    A well protected outing, following (often wet) good rough rock to land on a ledge at 2/3rd height. The leftwards facing corner is tricky to enter and to leave through the overhang above. L.O. 23 m.

  13. Let Me Know What Life is Like - HVS, 5b
    Climb the obvious (and rotten) corner in the centre of the crag. Better started as for the previous route at a slightly harder grade. Make technical moves to finish up the better corner at half height. Abseil. 23 m.

OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA

Another quality section of crag containing possibly the finest traditional E1 and E2 on sandstone. The first few routes all start on a blocky buttress, which has some poor gear and rock but easy climbing. However, this is more than compensated for by fine slab above.


  1. Evening Light - Fr. 6a+ *
    The arête right of Let Me Know. Take the the blocky buttress until under the arête proper. Ascend the arête passing an old drilled PR to a shared L.O. with Save a Mouse. 23 m.

  2. Save a Mouse Eat a Pussy - Fr. 6c+ *
    Follow Mouse Trap but take the centre of the obvious scoop.LO

  3. Mouse Trap - Fr. 6b+
    On the right hand side of the central buttress is a small 'V' groove at 5 m. Step left after the groove and climb the centre of the blocky buttress to the hanging slab. Avoiding the use of a water filled borehole on Save a Mouse (if you can?), follow a line of bolts up the right hand side of the scoop. Abseil. 23 m.

  4. The Owl and the Antelope - E2, 5c **
    The route they all aspire to, a classic knee trembler. Climb the right hand side of the blocky pillar to the start of the mid height roofs. Pass a prominent borehole (long thread) to reach the left side of a small cave. Move slightly leftward into a shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) and exit this rightward, with care, to get established on the slab. Two horizontal cam slots up and right lead to an easy finish through a shallow groove. Abseil. 23 m.
    1. Variation 1 Hoot-of-it - E4, 5c/6a * From the shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) traverse boldly rightward along the very lip of the roofs (without protection) to an arête and aim for the safety of large pocket above; Acid House Trip traverse in reverse. A last long stretch from the pocket leads directly to the top.

      Tom Palfreman at the top of "The Owl and the Antelope" E2 5c
      Tom Palfreman at the top of - The Owl and the Antelope E2 5c


  5. On Jupiter and Mars - E1, 5b **
    A route of the highest quality. Follow one of the previous routes to the start of the mid height roofs. Enjoy a well protected traverse under the roofs and a hard move to exit at their right hand end. Don't miss a good (long) borehole thread at a small triangular roof, below the easy finishing groove. Abseil. 23 m.

  6. Over The Moon - E4, 5c *
    Start 3m left of Crash Landing, and climb rightward, and over a strip roof. From the left side of the ledge ascend a short tower and overcome the main roof 2m right of the Owl thread. Arrange protection (Friend 1/2 in incut handhold below the small pocket and/or Friend 2 1/2 in the Owl shot-hole). Traverse rightward, on the very lip of the roofs to an arête, large pocket and thence the top. Abseil.

    The following four sports climbs share a common chain belay, DON'T WEAR IT OUT, USE YOUR OWN KARABINERS.

  7. Crash Landing - Fr. 6a *
    Start below a shallow groove at 8 m, gain and leave it rightwards. Follow the bulging slab to the top. Chain L.O. 19 m.

  8. Ol’ Blue Eyes - Fr. 6c
    Right of Crash Landing is a prominent boss of rock. Pull through this to gain easier ground. LO.19 m.

  9. Heart Throb - Fr. 6b *
    Climb directly to a tricky move up the shallow right facing corner at 10m, swing left onto slabs to finish. Shared L.O. 19 m.

  10. Ewe Flock Wit - Fr. 6a
    Wall to right of Heart Throb. Traverse left below a tree to the upper slab and a shared chain L.O. Minimum use of rubbly crack permitted. L.O. 19 m.

  11. Sheepbone Wall - HVS, 4c
    The cracked groove to the right.

MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION

rock climbing topo of Main Wall right-hand side of Navigation Quarry
Topo

The crag now splits in half via a grassy horizontal ledge with trees either end. The following routes can be split as described below. The harder pitches start from the floor. The easier pitches start from the ledge. It is easy to abseil onto the ledge and arrange belays on trees, just don't be a plonker and fall off.

  1. Ram Raider - Fr. 6a+
    Left trending corner (avoid Sheepbone choss further out left). A long pull onto the ledge is rewarded by a nice low angle slab finish. L.O. 17 m.
    1. Ram Bam Thank You Mam - Fr. 5a
      From the half height ledge, the continuation of Ram Raider can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. 6 m.

  2. Spring Lamb Mantle - Fr. 6b *
    Obvious (mantle) shelf in the orange wall (optional L.O below the ledge at 10 m). Continue easily to the top via the bolts above the ledge. 17 m.
    1. Mint Topping - Fr. 5c
      From the half height ledge, the continuation of Spring Lamb Mantle can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. 6 m.

  3. Feeling Sheep - Fr. 7b
    A perverse activity up the bulge right of Sheepbone Wall. One very hard move, without much merit. Abseil from tree. 9 m.

  4. project closed
    Cleaning and bolting not completed. 8 m.

  5. Baaaaad to the Bone - Fr. 6b+
    White bulge, left of the corner. L.O. Or, pull onto the ledge, on grass, or on the rope tied to a tree and finish up a steep slab (green BR's) with a strip overhang at its apex. 13 m.
    1. Woolly Pullover - Fr. 5a
      From the half height ledge, the continuation of Baaaaad to the Bone can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. 6 m.

  6. Tupping Time - Fr. 4+
    The blocky corner at the far right of the main wall with three possible finishes. 13 m.
    1. Tupping Time (original finish) - Fr. 4
      From the half height ledge, the original continuation of Tupping Time can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. From the grassy ledge, continue up a slab behind the ash tree. L.O. 6 m.
    2. Variation - Spinning a Good Yarn - Fr. 5+
      Start as for Tupping then take the excellent red groove on good rock.
    3. Variation - Mutton Chops - Fr. 5
      A right hand finish to Tupping, take care, a stiff pull to gain the belay.

RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL

This is the shorter east facing wall which is shady and cool in summer.

  1. Stainless Steel Association - Fr. 4+
    The corner left of the green slab, the dust will settle, harder if the bulge is taken direct.

  2. Stainless Steel Incorporation - Fr. 6a+
    From the first bolt of previous move out R to the good hold then direct over the small overlap moving L to shared belay

  3. Micro Incorporation - Fr. 6b+
    Boldly launch up the arête then move left onto the slab continuing as for Stainless Steel Incorporation. (The direct start Little Tinker is an open project.)

  4. Micro-wire Corporation - E4, 6a*
    Much better than it appears, this is the orange arête left of Big Spider Groove. The gear is as suggested, but with some chunkier stuff higher up. Launch up the arête, using a pocket to grab a flat hand-ledge on the left. Move up and right and finish up a groove. 10m

  5. Big Spider Groove - HVS, 5a
    The obvious green corner. Finish at a double bolt L.O. or climb out leftward to a belay stake.

  6. Alco-troll - Fr. 6a
    Start under the nose of the last arête in the quarry. Climb to first bolt, swing left to a big pocket and continue delicately via the slab, left of the arête. L.O.

  7. Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - Fr. 7a ***
    Gritesque. The last arête in the quarry, taken on the right hand side throughout. Essentially a V4 boulder problem. L.O.

THE TRAVERSES

  1. My Way - Fr. 6a+
    Classic Sinatra top 15 song, classic Navigation wander following a natural line of weakness. Gain the shale break of Let Me Playclipping the recently installed bolts, shuffle left, ascend the faint corner groove to pull out up the newly bolted headwall above the derelict Raven nest cave. Marked as route 22 on Topo. L.O.

  2. Acid House Trip - E2, 5c
    Follow Heart Throb, then move left into On Jupiter at its final overhang. Pull over to a hole (Friend 3½), move down and traverse the lip to the slot on The Owl. Go down to a ledge then round to the BR on Save A Mouse. Swing round the arête to the ledge on Let Me Know. Finish up this or as for The Gang Of Four.

  3. The Gang Of Four - E3, 5b
    From the tree on Let Me Know move left to where the PR on Tears For Smears should be. Continue up and left, PR, then descend to a crack, PR. Up Ladybird to the ledge then keep going left to finish diagonally left of a faint crack in the headwall.

  4. String Theory - Fr. 6b, Fr. 6b+
    A logical and interesting left-to-right girdle traverse, shunning much of the potential ledge-walking, and shamelessly making use of the BRs on vertical routes. Take a few cams and wires.
    P.1. - Fr. 6b Climb to BR2 on Rockover Beethoven. Traverse right along a narrowing footledge, climbing up and rightward onto the Deathwish arête. Continue across Fly me to the Moon and clip BR of Man or Mouse. Traverse delicately right past BR on Let me Play and continue along a hand-ledge (PR) to take a belay on BRs on some good ledges on The Relaxed Ladybird. 45m.
    P.2. - Fr. 6b+ Make a hard move up and right on Great Expectations. Traverse right along the lip of the roof of Western Front, under its crack, into the groove of Let me Know. Hop around the arête of Evening Light (2PR) and balance across the scoop of Save a Mouse Move up and traverse across The Owl slab at the level of its slot, gaining a hand-sized pocket left of On Jupiter. Move diagonally right to exit. 30m.

ADDITIONAL PHOTOS

FIRST ASCENTS

LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL

  1. Leftover - 1989 - G Lewis, S Blackman - Retro-bolted 2007
  2. Thread search- Myles Jordan
  3. Octopod myles jordan 2018
  4. Expanded Mole Groove - 1984 - G Lewis, C Hurley
  5. Gold Block - 1984 - G Lewis, M Learoyd - Retro-bolted 2007
    1. Kestrel Groove - 1984 - G Lewis (solo)
    2. Variation 2 - 2007

MAIN WALL - LEFT HAND SLABS

  1. How I Wrote the Elastic Man - G Ashmore, G Morris - 28.10.2017
  2. The Elastic Retreat - 1989 - G Barker - Retro-bolted 2017
  3. Project
  4. Peg Bristol - M Crocker, J Harwood - 05.04.2008
  5. Half Man Half Machine - A Rosier - 18.03.2012
  6. Code of the Road - 1984 - M Learoyd, C Hurley
  7. Bootylicious - 21.09.2017 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
  8. Rockover Beethoven - 1988 - B Brewer - Retro-bolted 2007
  9. The Bolt Fund Blues - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
  10. Where did you get that Bolt? - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis - New finish described, originally Squash Match.
  11. Good Sweat and Jeers - R.Thomas - 08.12.2017
  12. Squash Match - 1983 - G Lewis, M Learoyd, L Foulkes - Bolts added 2007
    Direct finish - 2006 - A Rosier, P Rogers
  13. Blood, Sweat and Beers - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
  14. Geeny - 1989 - G Lewis, G Barker - Retro-bolted 2017
  15. Death Match - A Rosier, P Rogers - 13.06.2005 - Retro-bolted 2017
    Direct finish Roy Thomas 2017
  16. Death Wish - 1984 - M Learoyd (solo) - Retro-bolted 2017.
    Variation, leftwards finish through headwall (Death Twitch) 1987 R.Thomas retroed 2017
  17. Fly Me to the Moon - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman - Bolt added 2007
  18. A Blank Abstract - 1992 - G Ashmore, R Lawrence - Bolts added 2008
  19. Man or Mouse - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis - bolts added 2017
  20. Craxsploitation - 25.02.2018 - A.Rosier et al
  21. Let Me Play Among the Stars - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman, C Heard - Bolts added 2007

CENTRAL WALL

  1. Deus ex Machina - 24.03.2012 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
  2. Black Magic - 1988 - T.Forster - Retro-bolted 2013 with Local Area BMC blessing.
  3. The Relaxed Ladybird - 2007 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
  4. Ladybird - 1983 - L.Foulkes, G.Lewis
  5. Relax - 1984 - A.Richardson, G.Lewis
  6. Great Expectations - 1988 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
  7. Western Front- 1983 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
  8. Western Front Direct - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - Bottom bolts added 2007
  9. Eastern Bloc Rock - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - New bolted start 2007
  10. Dry Entry - R. Thomas- 15.10.2017
  11. Tears For Smears - 1984 - G.Lewis, R.East
  12. Goblin Girl - 1989 - G.Barker, G.Lewis - New bolted start 2007
  13. Let Me Know What Life Is Like - 1982 - G.Lewis, Steve Blackman

OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA

  1. Evening Light - 1984 - G.Lewis, H.Griffiths - Retro-bolted 2017
  2. Save A Mouse, Eat A Pussy - 1989 - G.Lewis, A.N.Other, G.Barker -Retro-bolted 2017.
  3. Mouse Trap - 1992 - G.Lewis, P.Jones - Retro-bolted 2008
  4. The Owl And The Antelope - 1983 - G.Lewis, C.Heard, M.Learoyd
    1. Variation - 24.03.2008 - Martin Crocker, John Harwood
  5. On Jupiter And Mars - 1982 - G.Lewis, S.Blackman
  6. Over the Moon - 03.04.2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis

(The first ascent of this complete route used three bolts - one protecting the move through the roof and two on the slab - at a grade of E2. The bolts were removed by John Harwood as they were placed unknowingly after M Crocker climbed The Owl and the Antelope Variation but prior to it being publicised. It was however first climbed by G.Lewis as Acid House Trip and given permissions to retrobolt. The route, in it's entirety, has not yet had a bolt free ascent and so the grade is speculative).

  1. Crash Landing - 1983 - G.Lewis, D.Renshaw - Retro-bolted 2007
  2. Ol’ Blue Eyes - 1989 - G.Barker, M.Kidd - Retro-bolted 2017
  3. Heart Throb - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart - Retro-bolted 2017
  4. Ewe Flock Wit - 17.09.2017 - R.Thomas
  5. Sheepbone Wall - 1983 -G.Lewis, M.Learoyd

MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION

  1. Ram Raider - 19.09.2017 - A.Rosier, R.Thomas
  2. Spring Lamb Mantle - 21.09.2017 - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, R.McAllister
    1. Upper wall - 26.09.2017 - R.Thomas
  3. Feeling Sheep - 1997 - G.Ashmore
  4. Proj closed
  5. Baaaaad to the Bone - 24.09.2017 - A.Rosier
  6. Tupping Time - 21.09.2017 - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, R.McAllister
    1. Spin a Yarn- 26.09.2017 - R.Thomas
    2. Mutton Chops - 26.09.2017 - R.Thomas

RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL

  1. Micro-wire Corporation - M Crocker (solo) - 05.04.2008
  2. Big Spider Groove - 1983 - G.Lewis, L.Foulkes
  3. Alco-troll - 01.03.2008 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
  4. Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - 08.03.2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis

THE TRAVERSES

  1. My Way - 2017 - R.Thomas
  2. Acid House Trip - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart, G.Barker
  3. The Gang Of Four - 1985 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis, C.Pound, T.Jordan
  4. Possibly Martin Crocker, solo with back-rope (Soloist), though some parts will have been climbed before, specifically the second half of Pitch 2. 75m(5.4.08)