Neath Abbey Quarry
| Neath Abbey Quarry | |
| Rock Type | Quarried Sandstone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Sport |
| Approach Time | |
| Area | Sandstone |
| Sub Area | Sandstone Far Western Valleys |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.67244, -3.84446 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SS 725 986 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | |
| GR Parking Location | |
| Base Elevation | 187 metres (SRTM Estimation) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | |
| Aspect | |
| Wind Sheltered | |
| Climbing Type | |
| Seepage | |
| Crags Within 5.0 km | |
|
Cilfrew Main Crag, Cilfrew Outlying Areas, Cilfrew Ravens Cliff, Craig y Pal-Glais, Drumau Road, Dyffryn Woods Crag, Gelliwastad, Graigola, Llandarcy, Neath Abbey Quarry, Red Jacket Pill | |
Contents
PREAMBLE
A big bramble infested quarry similar to the upper tier of Llanbradach but steeper. There is quite a bit of seepage. Most of the routes are sports routes, but the gear consists of 8mm bolts in a grid iron at exactly the same interval, making clips awkward. The PB lower offs are dubious. Some of the routes may not have been done yet. Access is a major problem and it is highly probable that one of the residents, a stipendiary magistrate, will insist that you leave.
In addition it is thought that the routes may have all fallen down - but nobody has bothered checking.
It has been confirmed that the crag collapsed one night in the early 2000's giving the villagers underneath a fearful awakening. The resulting jumble of massive boulders have provide a fruitful source of top quality problems which may be recorded here or in the bouldering section.
Take care not to trespass along the private road when gaining access, bite the bullet and take the lengthy walk via the woods or escarpment above.
ACCESS
The large quarry above Neath Abbey visible from the M4. Leave the M4 at J44 and follow signs to Birchgrove (B4291). At the first church turn right, drive along this road for about 2 miles and where the road contours right, park just beyond a wooded area. Head up through new estates to reach a path which is followed to eventually reach the quarry.
THE ROUTES
Grid Iron Wall
- Unnamed - Fr7b+ **
The left-hand bolt line, passing a big pocket. 21m - Unnamed #2 - Fr7b+ **
The central line. 21m - Unnamed #3 - Fr7c+ **
The right-hand line. Said to be very hard. 21m
Other Routes
- Unnamed #4 - Fr7a
The wall at right angles to Grid Iron Wall. 12m - Unnamed #5 - Fr6c
Round to the right is a capped groove containing a BR. Climb up the crack to this and move left and up (crux). Pull round the roof, and onto the slab, which is climbed past BRs and PRs to a BB. 20m
FIRST ASCENTS
Grid Iron Wall
- A.Sharp etc. 1994
- A.Sharp etc. 1994
- A.Sharp etc. 1994
Other Routes
- A.Sharp etc. 1994
- A.Sharp etc. 1994
