Sheriff Quarry - Maerdy
| Sheriff Quarry - Maerdy | |
 | |
| Rock Type | Quarried Sandstone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Sport |
| Approach Time | |
| Area | Sandstone |
| Sub Area | Sandstone Western Valleys |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.675450, -3.4919472 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SS 969 984 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | |
| GR Parking Location | |
| Base Elevation | 404 metres (SRTM Estimation) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | |
| Aspect | |
| Wind Sheltered | |
| Climbing Type | |
| Seepage | |
| Crags Within 5.0 km | |
|
Blaenllechau, Bwlch Mountain Road, Clydach Vale Cambrian Quarry, Cwmaman Main, Cwmaman West, Ferndale Lower Quarry, Ferndale Main, Ferndale Right, Gelli, Llwynypia, Maerdy - Rhondda Fach, Pontygwaith Quarry, Sheriff Quarry - Maerdy, The Farm, Ton Pentre, Treherbert Quarry, Tylorstown Quarry | |
BOLTING POLICY
Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentonist permission. New sports route allowed. Place bolts high so kids can't tamper with them.
PEAMBLE
A compact sports quarry. Easterly facing and slightly overhanging dries quickly with an unfortunate proximity to Maerdy. High first bolts so a clip stick is essential.
ACCESS
As the A4233 enters Maerdy it turns sharply right. At this point turn left up School Road, past a bus depot, and then turn right on to Mile Street/Edward Street. Park here (if you dare). From the northern end of Edward Street a track leads winds upwards towards the forest. As the track reaches the edge of the forest a steep track lead up into the forest. Follow this steep track directly into the quarry. A pillar marks the quarry entrance.
DESCENTS
Topping out is difficult due to a band of loose rock, so all routes have lower-offs or adjacent lower-offs.
ROUTES
- The Sheriff of Loves Brown Canyon - Fr. 6b+
Very sustained climbing up a twisting crack becoming increasingly difficult until a mud-filled shot hole offers a brief respite. - Maerdy Gra - Fr. 6c
Scramble onto dusty ledge to start sustained climbing on very spaced out cracks, finger jams and pockets. Relentless. - FSB - Fr. 6b+
The curving line left of the crack above the ledge. May need rebolting. - Kremlin Capers - Fr. 6b+
Sustained fingery climb to fist jam. - Little Moscow - Fr. 6b
Face climbing in the right of the quarry.
FIRST ASCENTS
- D. Emanuel 03/06/2009
- D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 26/04/2010
- R. Thomas 2010
- R. Thomas 26/04/2010
- R. Thomas 03/06/2009
