Ferndale Right
| Ferndale Right | |
| ( Mynydd Tyntyle Quarry ) | |
 | |
| Rock Type | Quarried Sandstone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Trad/Sport |
| Approach Time | 10 minutes |
| Area | Sandstone |
| Sub Area | Sandstone Western Valleys |
| Local Area | Ferndale |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.663609, -3.455277 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SS 994 970 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.664906, -3.4527031 |
| GR Parking Location | SS 996 972 |
| Parking Postcode | CF43 4RF |
| Base Elevation | 345 metres (GPS Survey) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | East |
| Aspect | Partially Sunny |
| Wind Sheltered | Mostly |
| Climbing Type | Normal |
| Midge Problem | Moderate |
| Seepage | Needs a long dry spell |
| Crags Within 5.0 km | |
|
Blaenllechau, Cefnpennar, Clydach Vale Bogmonster Quarry, Clydach Vale Cambrian Quarry, Cwmaman Main, Cwmaman West, Dan Dicks, Ferndale Lower Quarry, Ferndale Main, Ferndale Right, Gelli, Llwynypia, Maerdy - Rhondda Fach, Mountain Ash West, Pontygwaith Quarry, Sheriff Quarry - Maerdy, The Farm, Ton Pentre, Turberville Road Quarry, Tylorstown Quarry, Ynyshir Quarry, Ynyshir West | |
| Ferndale Right | |
| Trad Grades | |
| <= HVS | 4 |
| E1 - E3 | 7 |
| E4 - E5 | 0 |
| >= E6 | 0 |
| Ferndale Right | |
| Sport Grades | |
| <= 6a+ | 4 |
| 6b - 6c+ | 6 |
| 7a - 7b | 0 |
| >= 7b+ | 0 |
BOLTING POLICY
Quarried sandstone.
Good cracklines have warranted trad lines, with the added bonus of lower-offs.
PREAMBLE
The quarry catches morning and early afternoon sun. It is a high altitude crag (347 metres) but is sheltered from the prevailing south-westerlies. Like a few other areas of Ferndale, it seeps in the winter.
ACCESS
Enter Ferndale on the A4233 Porth road and follow it to a very obvious junction in the middle of town. Turn left here and drive up past the Working Men’s Club to the end of the houses on the left. Park somewhere around here (widened footway on the right) and follow a zig-zag track up the hill for 100 m to a steel kissing gate in the fence on the left. Go through this into woodland, take the uphill track for about 40 m, then just after the fallen tree follow a smaller path striking steeply up the hill to the top, where the quarry is above you and the routes in the central, tallest, bay.
Or
As for Ferndale main then contour easily right below the crag from the main path into the larger sport quarry.(2 MIN)
THE ROUTES
Routes are described from left to right.
- S.A.D. - 7m Fr 5
First line in quarry, single bolt L.O
Roy Thomas Gary Gibson jan 2019 - Bottleneck - 7m H.S. 4b
Crack just R.
Roy Thomas jan 2019 - Another Jewell7m Fr 6b+ *
Gain and use the flying flake.
Gary Gibson Roy Thomas 00.01 2019 - Gem Them 7m Fr 6a
The shallow groove.
Gary Gibson Roy Thomas 00.01 2019 - A Little Garnett 7m Fr 6b*
The excellent little pillar.
Gary Gibson Roy Thomas 00.01 2019 - Opal Fruits 7m Fr6b
Take the edge of the short wall.
Gary Gibson Roy Thomas 00.01 2019 - Our Jade 7m Fr
The pleasant wall.
Gary Gibson 00.01 2019 - Crack on Left Wall Project 7m
- Big Jim 9m Fr. 6b+ **
Keep to the L of arête. Gain the top, then reach right to L.O. 8m.
Roy Thomas,Samantha Caan,Ed Chapman 00.092018 - Four Breakfast -9m E2, 5b **
Jamb or layback the well protected crack to a tricky finish(strenuous).
Roy Thomas 00.092018. - C U Next Time - 9m E2, 5c *
Crack left of tombstone, tricky start leads to awkward but well protected jambs.Roy Thomas 00.092018 - Chalk'n Bowels - 9m E2, 5c
It all goes swimmingly until the V chimney, dodgy peg fortified with sneaky rock 2 down and left.Roy Thomas 00.092018 - Bolts and Torque - Fr. 6b+
Blunt arête. Use of crack on R permitted by(often wet) sandy pockets. Roy Thomas Nick O'Neill 00.092018. - Nick's Wet Crack- 9m HVS, 5a
The crack above the fallen block. Share belay on L.Nick O'Neill,Roy Thomas,Eugene Jones 00.102018. - Netsky - No Beginning -9m Fr. 6c
Wall R of crack with staples. Will Calvert 00.092018. - Wallop 69 *15m F6b+
The flake to the R.Roy Thomas Nick O Neill april 2019 - By The Numbers -9m HVS, 5a
Cracked blocks lead to a very thin crack. Exit via jammed tapered block. L.O. to right.Roy Thomas 2018. - Bat Crack - 9m E1, 5b *
Meaty jambing leads to steep jugs and a final blind pull up to the L.O. Good gear. - Flake Quake -9m E2, 5c
Gain the steep flake (peg), coming in from the right. Shared L.O on left.Roy Thomas 2018. - Layback Jewell - 9m E2, 5c
Jimmy up the steep layback. Belay on the right.Roy Thomas, Rich Phillips 2018. - Flake of Doom - 9m E2, 5c
Sold as seen, creaky flake, make your own decisions.Roy Thomas Rich Phillips. - Jim Knee Sweep - 9m HVS, 4c
Ghastly looking chimney then traverse L to shared L.O. Nick O'Neill,Roy Thomas,Eugene Jones 2018.
First Ascents
- Roy Thomas January 2019
- Roy Thomas January 2019
- Gary Gibson January 2019
- Gary Gibson January 2019
- Gary Gibson 2019
- Gary Gibson 2019
- Gary Gibson Roy Thomas 9th January 2019
- R.Thomas Ed Chapman Samantha Cann September 2018
- R.Thomas Ed September 2018
- R.Thomas August 2018
- R.Thomas September 2018
- R.Thomas August 2018
- Nick O'Neill, R.Thomas, E.T. Jones 7th October 2018
- Will Calvert 2018
- Project
- R.Thomas 2018
- R.Thomas 2018
- R.Thomas 2018
- R.Thomas Rich Phillips 24th August 2018
- R.Thomas Rich Phillips 24th August 2018
- Nick O'Neill, E.T.Jones, R.Thomas 7th October 2018
