Ridgeway

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Ridgeway
Analogue Kid - Fr.6a+.
Analogue Kid - Fr.6a+.
Rock Type Quarried Sandstone
Climbing Style Sport
Approach Time 2 minutes
Area Sandstone
Sub Area Sandstone Eastern Valleys
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.629326, -3.2015920
OS Grid Ref. ST 16926 92963
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.630189, -3.2007980
GR Parking Location ST 16983 93058
Parking Postcode NP12 2HG
Base Elevation 116 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction East
Aspect Rarely Sunny
Wind Sheltered Always
Climbing Type Normal
Midge Problem Mild
Seepage Quick drying
Crags Within 5.0 km

Cox's Quarry, Llanbradach Lower Tier, Llanbradach Upper Tier, Penallta, Ridgeway, Sirhowy - Quarry Mawr, Tyle y Coch



Ridgeway Header.jpg
Climber on Analogue Kid Fr.6a+

PREAMBLE

The Ridgeway quarry lies in a rural hilltop location and contains a couple of quick drying walls of coarse sandstone. So far, sport climbing development has been restricted to the tall 'Black Slab' and short orange overhanging face, 'Boney Wall'.

ACCESS

From the A472 between Ystrad Mynach and Blackwood, where the carriageway changes from single to dual, turn south on the roundabout sign posted to Bryn Meadows Golf Club. Follow the lane for approximately 1 mile and park on the right at an obvious layby. Follow a path directly from the layby into the quarry on the right, approximately 50m.

If in doubt look for the tall radio mast about 100m beyond the quarry.

DESCENTS

All routes are equipped with double bolt abseil stations.

ROUTES

Black Slab Topo.

The routes are described from left to right.

BLACK SLAB

A tall slabby wall with half a dozen sport routes, some of real quality. The wall faces north-east and can be very cold when the wind is up, or a welcome escape from hot and humid conditions elsewhere.

  1. Geotechnique – Fr. 6b+
    The rounded left arête of the wall, starting half way up the banking. Technical. 10m

  2. Powered by Cheese and Ham – Fr. 6a *
    Just to the right of the tree is a vertical crack, follow it to the top of the wall. 16m

  3. Spacebats - Fr. 6c+ **
    A crimpy and technical offering. The ever steepening wall between the cracks.16m

  4. Analogue Kid - Fr. 6a+ **
    Follow the diagonal crack to its end. A couple of thin moves lead to a search for holds on the lip of the ledge. 18 m.

  5. Kill the Superheroes – Fr. 6b+ **
    The line of staples branching rightwards from the Analogue Kid crack. Near the top, use a thin crack and pull straight over a small roof to reach finger rails. The corner to the right is definitely 'off-route'. 17m

  6. Wee Wyllie Wonka – Fr. 6a
    The steep cracks and slabby corner on the far right of the wall. 17m

    Geotechnique

Done all these? Time to head to Navigation Quarry!

BONEY WALL

A steep little face, very quick drying and south-east facing. The climbs are mainly on big incut holds but with a short sharp crux.

  1. Yo Momma – Fr. 6b+
    Start at the graffiti ‘’BONEY’’ and climb the leaning orange wall, close to the left arête. 10m

  2. Chasing Dragonflies - Fr. 6b *
    The central line on the leaning wall. 9m

  3. Shotgun Party – Fr. 6b
    A short route on the right side of the wall. Tree stump belay at ground level. 8m

OTHER

Between the developed walls is an old route.

  1. Name Unknown
    Behind a tree in the northwest part of the quarry is a blocky ramp and steep parallel cracks, containing an old peg.

FIRST ASCENTS

  1. A. Rosier - 13.03.2010
  2. B. Danby - 12.09.2010
  3. R. McAllister - 10.09.2010
  4. A. Rosier - 13.03.2010 - The day Wales switched to digital TV.
  5. A. Rosier - 13.03.2010
  6. R. Thomas - 17.03.2011

BONEY WALL

  1. A.Rosier - 12.09.2010
  2. A. Rosier – 21.03.2010
  3. A. Rosier – 21.03.2010 - A credit to the ex Italian special forces member and crazy local guy who generously let Bruce and I pop some caps with their supersonic rifle and shotgun arsenal. It's never dull around here!


THE MAP



To find your desired crag, type the name in to the Filter Markers box (top right corner of the map).

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ADDITIONAL PHOTOS

Facts about "Ridgeway"
Faces directionEast +
Has approach time2 +
Has aspectRarely Sunny +
Has base elevation116 +
Has climbing styleSport +
Has cover descriptionAnalogue Kid - Fr.6a+. +
Has cover photoanalogue kid 1.jpg +
Has crag nameRidgeway +
Has elevation referenceSRTM Estimation +
Has midge problemMild +
Has parking geolocation OSGB36ST 16983 93058 +
Has parking geolocation WGS8451° 37' 49", -3° 12' 3"Latitude: 51.630189
Longitude: -3.200798
+
Has parking geolocation WGS84 text51.630189, -3.2007980 +
Has parking postcodeNP12 2HG +
Has rock typeQuarried Sandstone +
Is climbing typeNormal +
Is geolocated OSGB36ST 16926 92963 +
Is geolocated WGS8451° 37' 46", -3° 12' 6"Latitude: 51.629326
Longitude: -3.201592
+
Is geolocated WGS84 text51.629326, -3.2015920 +
Is located in main areaSandstone +
Is located in sub areaSandstone Eastern Valleys +
Is rain shelteredSeldomly +
Is wind shelteredAlways +
Suffers from seepageQuick drying +