Ton Pentre

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Ton Pentre
( Church Quarry )
Ystrad back wall.jpg
Rock Type Quarried Sandstone
Climbing Style Sport
Approach Time
Area Sandstone
Sub Area Sandstone Western Valleys
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.64898, -3.48372
OS Grid Ref. SS 974 955
WGS-84 Parking Location
GR Parking Location
Base Elevation 198 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction
Aspect
Wind Sheltered
Climbing Type
Seepage
Crags Within 5.0 km

Blaenllechau, Bwlch Mountain Road, Clydach Vale Bogmonster Quarry, Clydach Vale Cambrian Quarry, Cwmaman Main, Cwmaman West, Dan Dicks, Edmonston Quarry and Edge, Ferndale Lower Quarry, Ferndale Main, Ferndale Right, Gelli, Llwynypia, Maerdy - Rhondda Fach, Pontygwaith Quarry, Punk Rocks, Sheriff Quarry - Maerdy, The Farm, Ton Pentre, Treherbert Quarry, Turberville Road Quarry, Tylorstown Quarry, Ynyshir West



PREAMBLE

A small quarry with surprisingly good rock, especially on the mildly leaning wall taken by most of the routes. It dries quickly and is sheltered. Sun on the back wall during the day, evening sun on the sidewall add to the appeal.

A number of pleasant easier routes have been added which should increase it's appeal as an evening venue.

There are some project works in progress so please respect and feel free to add old carabiners or clean off routes.

There will be lower offs on all routes once regearing is complete.

ACCESS

Drive into the Rhondda on the A4058, and follow it to a set of traffic lights. Drive through these and through Llwynpia (Shell garage on right). Pass over the river and bear left at the next set of traffic lights. Pass through two roundabouts and then take a right turn into Green Hill residential road, approximately 200m past Gelli Primary School. Take a left then right uphill and park at the next junction. Ahead of you is a grassy path between the houses. Walk through the gate at the top of the grass track, turn left, pass through another gate and the quarry entrance is 100m on the right.

51.649075, -3.4838784

SS (2)97433, (1)95519

CF41 7QW

THE ROUTES

Described conventionally, left to right.

Leaning Wall

Ton Pentre - Back Wall and Blue Balls Wall
  1. Bland of Four - Fr. 6a
    The wall just right of the corner. 9 m

  2. Solihull Calling - Fr. 6b
    Second line of bolts from the left, a little eliminate. Crux at top. B.B. to the right, shared with next route. 11 m

  3. Alone And Blue - Fr. 6b+ *
    The third line of bolts, just left of the first crack, crux at the top. bolt L.O. 11 m

  4. Help The Aged - E1, 5b
    The crack immediately to the right. No L.O. at present. 12 m

  5. Too Posh To Brush Fr 6b**
    The slender pillar between the two cracks. Shares belay with next route.Crux at the top. 12 m

  6. The Road To Nowhere - Fr. 6b *
    The crack to the right, leading to a weakness in the overhanging bulge. Crux at the top. LO. 12 m

  7. April Fool - Fr. 6b+ *
    Right is a vague crack and ramp leading to an overhang, surmount this. From the shelf, move up and left, then up the headwall (crux) to a B.B. 12 m

  8. Spirit Of Ystrad - Fr. 6c+ *
    Mean and fingery start up the right end of this section of wall. Continue with difficulty to BB. 12 m

Blue Balls Wall

  1. Tibial Plates Extension - Fr. 5+
    The left side of the narrow slab and short steep headwall, one move wonder to the new higher belay. 12 m

  2. Shins - HS, 4a
    Mantle onto the protruding block above the bramble infested pit, then move out right along the huge ledge. Finish direct from its right hand end. 12 m

  3. Tom Tom Club - Fr. 6a+ *
    Start in the pit. Climb the prominent tower, with a hard and quite bold start. Pass the creative work of the tortured artist and finish more or less direct to B.B. 15 m

  4. Final Relief Of The Blue Ball Artist Fr 5 *
    Start off the shelf just right of the pit to gain the final headwall and chain belay.15m.

Retaining Wall

Ton Pentre - Retaining Wall
  1. Half bolted pillar-works in progress
    Bolting not finished,keep off.

  2. Occam's Razor - Fr. 5
    The wall just right of the fern shrouded gully. Shared B.B. 16 m

  3. Keystone Craps - Fr. 5+ *
    Common sense or simple knowledge of physics should dictate that the keystone is essential but not as a climbing hold, jamb past it to the final layback. Shared B.B.

  4. Dai's Dalliance - Fr. 6a
    The wall near the quarry entrance, left of the arête. Staples.


First Ascents

Leaning Wall

  1. R.Thomas R.Phillips, R.Leyshon - 15/07/2013
  2. R.Thomas, E.T.Jones - 11/07/2013
  3. R.Thomas, G.Royle - 00.00.1990
  4. R.Thomas, M.Learoyd - 00.00.1990
  5. R.Thomas, M.Learoyd - 00.00.1990
  6. R.Thomas, G.Ashmore - 13.08.2013
  7. M.Learoyd, R.Thomas, L.Foulkes - 00.00.1990
  8. M.Learoyd, R.Thomas - 00.00.1990

Blue Balls Wall

  1. R.Thomas ':00.06.2013
  2. A.Eggleton solo - 14.05.1995
  3. E.Travers-Jones R.Thomas - 00.00.1990
  4. R.Thomas, G.Ashmore - 13.08.2013

Retaining Wall

  1. works in progress
  2. R.Thomas, N. O'neill G.Ashmore - 23/05/2013
  3. R.Thomas, N. O'Neill G.Ashmore - 23/05/2013
  4. Dai Emanuel, Roy Thomas - 15/Jun/2013

The Map



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