Edmonston Quarry and Edge

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Edmonston Quarry and Edge
( The Secret Trebanog )
Rock Type Quarried Sandstone
Climbing Style Trad
Approach Time
Area Sandstone
Sub Area Sandstone Western Valleys
WGS-84 Location 51.604945, -3.4327769
OS Grid Ref. ST 008 905
WGS-84 Parking Location
GR Parking Location
Base Elevation 301 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction
Wind Sheltered
Climbing Type
Crags Within 5.0 km

Brittania Quarry, Clydach Vale Bogmonster Quarry, Clydach Vale Cambrian Quarry, Coed Ely, Dan Dicks, Edmonston Quarry and Edge, Gelli, Glynfach, Llwynypia, Pontygwaith Quarry, Porth, Punk Rocks, The Farm, Ton Pentre, Trebanog, Trehafod, Turberville Road Quarry, Ynyshir Quarry, Ynyshir West


An exposed natural edge, apparently of better quality than the Edmonstown Quarry.


The Edmonston Quarry is extremely poor, fairly loose and belays and loose earth are a problem. Obviously a typical high quality venue of the future. Only really attractive for people who like to get as dirty as possible.

This is the small quarry at the end of the track running leftwards from the top of Trebanog proper, see that crag for more details.


Edmonston Quarry

1. Third Arête 8m D

The third arête from the right-hand side of the massif.

C.Shorrock, M.Hirst 04.02.1995

2. Chocwert Orange 8m S

The cracked arête just left on its left-hand side. The top block is terminally wobbly.

M.Hirst 04.02.1995

3. Greasin’ Ma Bearings 8m HS,4a

The thin crack to the left.

M.Hirst 04.02.1995

4. Hand Job 8m HVS,5a

The face left of the previous route is probably the best thing here. A hand placed peg is used for protection.

M.Hirst 04.02.1995

5. Cheeter 8m VD

The poor loose wider crack to the left.

C.Shorrock, M.Hirst 04.02.1995

6. Ji 8m VS,4c

The face and crack to the left, finishing direct.

C.Shorrock 04.02.1995

7. Fungus Face 9m D

The face right of the open book corner in the natural crag above the quarry.

C.Shorrock, M.Hirst 04.02.1995

8. Crank Extractor 9m HS

The overhanging arête left of the open book corner.

M.Hirst, C.Shorrock 04.02.1995

Secret Trebanog (Upper Tier)

An exposed natural edge, apparently of better quality than the Edmonstown Quarry.

The edge is usually reached by following the track leftwards along the skyline from Trebanog proper (above the Edmonstown Quarry area).

Pyramid Buttress

This is the first substantial buttress, with an obvious pyramid/conical form on its left-hand side.

1. Scope For A Slope 5m D

The north-facing slab up and left of the pyramid.

C.Shorrock 12.03.1995

2. The Pyramid 6m M

The rounded left-hand arête of the buttress.

C.Shorrock 01.03.1995

3. Up And Over 9m VD

The crack in the centre of the overhanging wall to the right to a slabby finish.

C.Shorrock, A.Potter 12.03.1995

4. Two Tier Slab 9m D

The leaning crack and groove to the right, followed by the two-tiered slab above.

C.Shorrock 01.03.1995

Square Walls Sector

Some 50m right of Pyramid Buttress lie two square walls. The left-hand one is virgin, the right-hand one contains the routes described below.

5. Depression Arête 8m HS,4b

The left-hand arête of the wall.

S.Coles 14.06.1995

6. Enough Is Enough 8m VS,4c

The left-hand line on the wall.

S.Coles 14.06.1995

7. No More 8m VS,4c

The central line on the wall.

S.Coles 14.06.1995

8. Fire Up Above 8m VS,4c

Start left of the right-hand arête, then follow this to finish left of the arête.

M.Salter, C.Shorrock 11.04.1995

9. Cracking Up 6m VD

The crack in the side wall.

C.Shorrock 01.03.1995

Firecracker Buttress

Right of the Square Walls Sector lies a series of buttresses. Initially there are some short slabs, before the overhanging, ivy-covered wall.

10. Laid Back But Slack 9m D

Left of the overhanging wall is an easy angled pillar.

C.Shorrock 01.03.1995

11. Alpha 7 Hazard 9m HVS,4c

Climb the aforementioned overhanging wall and continue to the top.

S.Coles 14.06.1995

12. Ash Tray 9m S

The right-facing arête 5m right of Alpha 7 Hazard.

S.Coles 14.06.1995

13. Empty Plate 9m VD

The wall left of the prominent crack 5m right.

C.Shorrock 11.04.1995

14. Firecracker 9m VD

The aforementioned crack.

C.Shorrock 11.04.1995

15. Too Pooped To Scoop 9m S

The cracked, scooped wall 2m right of Firecracker.

C.Shorrock 11.04.1995

Main Slabs Sector

Well to the right of the last routes, the Main Slabs Sector is the obvious series of steep quarried slabs, identified by the fence at its left-hand end.

16. Dismounting 8m M

The right arête of the square, scrappy buttress approaching from the fence.

C.Shorrock 11.04.1995

17. The Pillar Rock Shock 8m VD

The small buttress set up and back from the others.

C.Shorrock 11.04.1995

18. Chim Chiminee 6m M

The deep chimney 3m to the right.

M.Salter, C.Shorrock 11.04.1995

19. Anchorage Slab 11m S

The main slab starting at a metal stake.

M.Salter 11.04.1995

20. Columnar Joint Tin 11m HVD

The column of rock and subsequent slab above the bend in the main slabs.

C.Shorrock, M.Salter 11.04.1995

21. Twisting Groove 21m D

The obvious twisting groove up the front corner of the prow.

C.Shorrock, M.Salter 11.04.1995

22. Mini Groove 9m S

The slab and shallow groove right of the start bay of Twisting Groove.

M.Salter 11.04.1995

The Top Secret Trebanog - Hidden Overhang Buttress

Up and right of The Prow lies a low steep buttress with a large horizontal flake at its right hand end.

23. Mantle Master 5m VS,4c

Climb an obvious niche on good holds to a vague crack finish.

J.Whitford, A.Potter 12.03.1995

24. Tree Time Trundle 5m S

The niche with a tree at two-thirds height, via a crack in the overhangs.

C.Shorrock, A.Potter 12.03.1995

25. Elbow Exit 6m HVS,5a

The niche to the right, passing through the overhangs to a hard finish.

J.Whiford, A.Potter 12.03.1995

26. Green Bullet Drama 6m HVS,5a

The pillar to the right, finishing through overhangs. The last move is the crux.

S.Coles 14.06.1995