Dyffryn Woods Crag

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Dyffryn Woods Crag
Dyfryn Woods.jpg
Rock Type Quarried Sandstone
Climbing Style Sport
Approach Time 15 minutes
Area Sandstone
Sub Area Sandstone Far Western Valleys
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.6843, -3.84168
OS Grid Ref. SS 727 999
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.684120, -3.827594
GR Parking Location SS 737 999
Parking Postcode SA10 7BQ
Base Elevation 218 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction North East
Aspect Partially Sunny
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type Normal
Midge Problem Mild
Seepage Needs a short dry spell
Crags Within 5.0 km

Cilfrew Main Crag, Cilfrew Outlying Areas, Cilfrew Ravens Cliff, Craig y Pal-Glais, Drumau Road, Dyffryn Woods Crag, Graigola, Llandarcy, Neath Abbey Quarry

BMC RAD
RAD Notice/Restriction Dyffryn Woods Crag@BMC RAD



Nik on 'Leave It To Me' at Dyfryn

BOLTING POLICY

This is a sport crag.

PREAMBLE

A maturing, east facing crag, with fabulous views of Swansea Bay and the Neath Valley. This is a good venue for the 6a/6b climber with a good selection of friendly bolted routes. The right hand section may be tricky to access until a path along the base is beaten back each spring.Many of the routes have been regeared.


Do not put the climbing at risk by driving on the Woodland Trust tracks but park up behind the church and make the pleasant 30 min walk to the crag, this also saves wrecking your tyres and suspension.

ACCESS

From the M4 at Junction 43, drive northbound on the A465.

Turn off after 3km, signposted Neath.

At the roundabout go left, signposted Skewen (A4230).

At the next roundabout, take the left after the Tesco entrance, signposted Skewen (A4230).

At the mini roundabouts take a right turn up the hill, signposted Longford.

After negotiating the “tank traps” follow the lane for 2 miles past the Glyn Clydach Hotel. Just after passing the Church is a sharp right hand bend, take a left turn on this bend, small sign for Grange Farm.

Park almost immediately by forest gates 50 m on the right and follow your nose up the track for 30 mins.


Currently the landowner - The Woodland Trust - has made it known that they are not happy with this site being used. In order not to jeopodise future access it would be better that groups (esp. commercial) avoid the crag. Absolutely no vehicle access to crag, WALK!

DESCENTS

Lower offs even on the trad route.

THE ROUTES

Routes are described from left to right

Catch first sight of the crag as the track takes a sharp tyre wrecking right hand bend.

  1. Sub prime market - VS 4b
    Small slabby wall by pole gate to single bolt.11m.

Serendipity Buttress

  1. Serendipity - Fr. 6a
    Tricky to start,pegs replaced with glue ins..11m.

  2. Enigma - Fr. 6b**
    Superb route,fingery,stainless bolts.11m.

  3. Who Dunnit ? - Fr.6a
    Crack to start then wall to lower off.11m.

  4. You Dunnit - Fr.6b*
    Stainless bolts to separate lower off.11m.

  5. Pocket Battleship - Fr.5+**
    Brilliant route up arête.12m.

Chimney Bay

Dyffryn Left
  1. Light Cruiser - Fr.6a+*
    Right side of arête, tricky at top.12m.

  2. Dirty Deeds - Fr.5+
    Peg runner to start. Lower off just left of chimney.12m.

  3. Get yer fist in - Fr.5+
    Follow cracks then chimney taking care with blocks at the top.12m.

  4. Leave it to me - Fr.6c+
    Steep wall and overlap left of grotesque chimney challenge.12m.

  5. Flue Liner - Fr.6a
    Get chimneying.12m.

  6. Pot Black - Fr.6b*
    Left side of black wall,tricky move at top will set your kettle boiling.12m.

  7. Slab Happy - Fr.6b*
    Staples,tricky at top.12m.

    TOPO Chimney Bay Right
  8. Repetitive Stain Inquiry - Fr.6a+*
    Left arête of tower.12m.

  9. Porno Text King - Fr.6b*
    Right side of tower.12m.

  10. Silent Mode - Fr.6a
    Hollow flakes and tricky move at overlap.12m.

  11. Rotters Club - Fr.5+
    Initial wall leads to flake and groove.12m.

  12. Bad Bad Boy - Fr.6b*
    Right end of this wall over roof/nose to finish on arête.12m.

  13. Down the drain - Fr.5
    Arête and left side of chimney to lower off below tree.10m.

  14. Our man from Hyder - Fr.5
    Right side starting up pocketed wall.10m.

  15. Mined like a sewer - HVS, 5a
    Splitter crack.10m.

Middle Walls

Dyffryn Right
  1. Off to Oz - Fr.5
    step off spoil heap very short,share lower off.8m.

  2. Ed’s Triumph - Fr.5+shared ring belay,tricky start..8m.

  3. Nick’s Dilemma - Fr.6a
    Bed knob bolts then secret hold to clip lower off.10m.

  4. Vagabond Fr 6b
    Boulder problem start,clip stick very high first bolt,share belay.

  5. Playing Away - Fr.6a
    Start 1.69m right.11m.

  6. A Bit of Nokia on the Side - Fr.6b
    Rounded pillar with staples.12m.

  7. Barbara - Fr.6b
    High first bolt then cheesy groove.12m.

  8. Milky White - Fr.6a
    Groove line passing bed knob.12m.

  9. Why Did I Bother - Fr.6b+
    Hard fingery wall.12m.

  10. Predictive Text - Fr.6b+*
    excellent climbing up steep wall.12m.

  11. Baggle Brook Affair - Fr.5*
    Nice slab and passing large pocket in wall above.12m.

  12. Nifty Fingers - Fr.6a
    Start just right,steep wall above ledge.14m.

  13. Lip Service - Fr.6b
    Pass bed knob,ledges to steep wall and tree.15m.

  14. Family Day - Fr.6b**
    All stainless steel bolts to high belay above ledge.15m.

  15. Affairs of Man - Fr.6b
    Slight corner,overlap and headwall to twin chains.15m.

  16. Supply and Demand - Fr.6b
    Steep wall on pockets to shared lower off of groove.14m.

  17. Demolition Gang - Fr.6a
    Groove to right,tricky start.14m.

Tree Wall

TOPO Tree Wall Left
  1. Birthday Bulge - Fr.5
    Initial tricky wall passing silver birch .Scrap metal galore.A birthday treat for Gwyn Evans,his first and probably only "bolted" new route.12m.

  2. Ed’s Folly - Fr.6a+ *
    Nice wall behind Elder tree.Rebolted 2020.14m.

  3. Manky groove - Fr.5+
    Rusty pegs to shared lower off,the name says it all.Rebolted 2020.14m.

  4. Memory man - Fr.6b
    Bridge up chimney trend up left via secret hold.Rebolted 2020.14m.

  5. Gathering Gloom - Fr.6a+
    Wall right of chimney,long reach to finish.14m.

  6. Ockers delight - Fr.6b
    Start at bulging nose up wall to fine finish over overhang.14m.

  7. Nick to the rescue - Fr.6c **
    The cave to right of gnarly oak, steep.14m.

  8. Damp digits - Fr.6a+
    The right edge of the cave.12m.

  9. Straight and narrow - Fr.6a+
    Wall to right of cave.12m.

FIRST ASCENTS

  1. Sub Prime Market R.Thomas G. Ashmore

Serendipity Butress

  1. Serendipity Roy Thomas 2007
  2. Enigma Roy Thomas 2007
  3. Who Dunnit? Roy Thomas 2007
  4. You Dunnit Gary Gibson & Roy Thomas 2007
  5. Pocket Battleship Roy Thomas 2007

Chimney Bbay

  1. Light Cruiser Roy Thomas 2007
  2. Dirty Deeds Roy Thomas 2007
  3. Get Yer Fist Roy Thomas 2007
  4. Leave It To Me Matt Hirst, Roy Thomas & Nick O'Neill 2008
  5. Flue Liner Roy Thomas 2007
  6. Pot Black Roy Thomas 2007
  7. Slab Happy Roy Thomas 2007
  8. Repetitive Stain Inquiry Roy Thomas 2007
  9. Porno Text King Roy Thomas 2007
  10. Silent Mode Nick O'Neill & Roy Thomas 2007
  11. Rotters Club Roy Thomas 2007
  12. Bad Bad Boy Roy Thomas 2007
  13. Down the drain Roy Thomas 2007
  14. Our Man From Hyder Roy Thomas 2007
  15. Mined Like a Sewer Myles Jordan & Nicola Ruddock 2008

Middle Walls

  1. Off to Oz Rich Leyshon & Roy Thomas 2008
  2. Ed’s Triumph Ed Rees & RoyThomas 2007
  3. Nick’s Dilemma Roy Thomas & Nick O'Neil 2007
  4. vagabond " Giles Davis 20 "
  5. Playing Away Roy Thomas Nick O'Neill 2007
  6. A Bit of Nokia on the Side Roy Thomas & Nick O'Neil 2007
  7. Barbara Gary Gibson & Roy Thomas 2007
  8. Milky White Roy Thomas 2007
  9. Why Did I Bother Roy Thomas 2007
  10. Predictive Text Roy Thomas 2007
  11. Baggle Brook Affair Roy Thomas 2007
  12. Nifty fingers Roy Thomas 2007
  13. Lip Service Roy Thomas 2007
  14. Family Day Roy Thomas & Nick O'Neill 2007
  15. Affairs of Man Roy Thomas 2007
  16. Supply and Demand Roy Thomas 2007
  17. Demolition Gang Roy Thomas 2007

Tree Wall

  1. Birthday Bulge Gwyn Evans 2007
  2. Ed’s Folly R.Thomas 2008
  3. Manky Groove
  4. Memory Man
  5. Gathering Gloom
  6. Ockers Delight
  7. Nick To The Rescue R.Thomas 2008
  8. Damp Digits
  9. Straight And Narrow R.Thomas 2009

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