Paviland Far West
| Paviland Far West | |
| ( Zulu Zawn ) | |
 | |
| Rock Type | Natural Carboniferous Limestone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Trad/Sport |
| Approach Time | 35 minutes |
| Area | Gower |
| Sub Area | Thurba to Overton |
| Local Area | Paviland and Juniper Wall |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.550372, -4.2566854 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SS 436 859 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.561586, -4.242797 |
| GR Parking Location | SS 446 871 |
| Parking Postcode | SA3 1PE |
| Base Elevation | 0 metres (Other) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | South |
| Aspect | Rarely Sunny |
| Wind Sheltered | Mostly |
| Climbing Type | Serious |
| Seepage | Quick drying |
| Crags Within 400m | |
|
Above Freelunchers Zawn, Below East Gully Groove, Deborah's Overhang, Eos Zawn, Hollow Top, Juniper Wall, Liberty Zawn, Paviland Far Far Far West, Paviland Far Far West, Paviland Far West, Paviland Main Cliff, Paviland Way Out West, Seaspit Small Cove, Stalking Horse Zawn, Stallion Cove, TV Zawn, The Hole, Tooth Fairy | |
PREAMBLE
Also known as Zulu Zawn.
ACCESS
Access from the free parking at Pilton Green, (SS 446 871 or 51.561586, -4.242797). On the right-hand side of the B4247, approx. 2 miles before Rhossili. Park on the grass at the edge of the track leading to a farm. Cross the road, bear left and take the public footpath (signposted to Foxhole Slade) through the 'kissing-gate' on the left of the sandy-coloured house (Clifflands). Reach the top of a dry valley after about 20 minutes and numerous gates. (1.34km). At the landward end of the valley is a wooden kissing-gate (SS 438860).
Go through the gate and, after a few metres, go right and through a green-painted steel gate. Go up the steep track for a 25 metres to the top and a wide grassy track.
From here, instead of following the wide grassy track westwards, strike out diagonally left and make your way across (200m) to a dry valley with a zawn in the bottom. (Paviland Far West).
Take the east (left side of the valley and traverse around towards the front face where the zawn is spotted on the left-side (west) of the Paviland Main Cliff. Paviland Far West is approached by abseil.
TIDAL STATUS
2 hours either side of low water.
BOLTING POLICY
No bolting, except on the overhanging wall at the landward end of the zawn, where new sports routes are allowed.
DESCENTS
By abseil.
ROUTES
The cliff is characterised by a smooth overhanging white wall at its landward end and a large bowl-shaped cave in the back, containing an A2 Aid Route (A.Berry 1996) and the obvious corner of Smuts.
- Ultimatum - Fr. 7c
The line of weakness in the centre of the wall. A trick sequence leads you up the centre of the wall until a big flake is reached. From here launch rightwards with a beautiful drop-knee or a wild slap to a ramp line that leads to the lower off. 18m. - Zulu Wall - Fr. 8a
The obvious line of the zawn! Climb with ever increasing difficulty up the central flake feature until a vicious bouldery sequence will see success and jugs or a big drop into the void. 20m. - Gunfire Hill 21m E1,5b
Start at a left-slanting ramp, about 15m left of Smuts. Go up the ramp for 1m, then take a flake up and right. From the top of the flake continue straight to the top. - Voortrekker 21m E5,6a
Start below a black bulge 10m left of Smuts. Go up to the bulge and make hard moves left to pass the bulge. Continue slightly rightwards to a very slim groove that leads to the top. - Rorke's Drift 21m E1,5b
Climb the centre of the wall 4m left of Smuts, moving right to finish. - Smuts 21m VS,4c
The obvious corner in the wall at the west end of the cliff and climb the corner.
FIRST ASCENTS
- Ultimatum - Simon Rawlinson 03/Jun/2010
- Zulu Wall - A.Berry 2010
- Gunfire Hill - M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.06.1998
- Voortrekker - M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.06.1998
- Rorke's Drift - A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.02.1986
- Smuts - A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.02.1986
