|Rock Type||Natural Carboniferous Limestone|
|Approach Time||35 minutes|
|Sub Area||Thurba to Overton|
|WGS-84 Location||51.547746, -4.249204|
|OS Grid Ref.||SS 441 856|
|WGS-84 Parking Location||51.561586, -4.242797|
|GR Parking Location||SS 446 871|
|Parking Postcode||SA3 1PE|
|Base Elevation||0 metres (Other)|
|Before/After Low Tide||1.0 hours (See Note)|
|Crags Within a Half Mile.|
Above Freelunchers Zawn, Below East Gully Groove, Black Hole Crag, Blackhole Gut, Devil's Cwm, Eos Zawn, Fetlock Zawn, Hollow Top, Horses Cliff, Juniper Wall, Liberty Zawn, Paviland Far Far Far West, Paviland Far Far West, Paviland Far West, Paviland Main Cliff, Paviland Way Out West, Seaspit Small Cove, Stalking Horse Zawn, Stallion Cove, The Hole, Upper Blackhole Crag, White Pillar, Yellow Buttress
This crag had the reputation of being the crumbliest on Gower.
Has some interesting, albeit very dangerous and loose, routes. Be careful!
Access from the free parking at Pilton Green, (SS 446 871 or 51.561586, -4.242797). On the right-hand side of the B4247, approx. 2 miles from Rhossili. Park on the grass at the edge of the track leading to a farm. Cross the road, bear left and take the public footpath (signposted to Foxhole Slade) through the 'kissing-gate' on the left of the sandy-coloured house (Clifflands). Reach the top of a dry valley after about 20 minutes and numerous gates. (1.34km). At the landward end of the valley is a wooden kissing-gate (SS 438860).
Go through the kissing gate, descend a short way (to the Wales Coast Path) and then turn left (east - signposted to Port Eynon) up the steep side of the valley and then head east for 160m on the path until you get to a broad vague valley leading down to the sea. Follow the valley downwards (for 200m) on a narrow path.
Scramble off at the top and drop down east (left) well back from the top.
A steep narrow ridge on the left and a series of grooves to the right. There is a prominent saddle at its base.
- South West Diedre - S
A good line on the west (left) of the ridge. The rock requires careful handling. 18m.
The steep bulging east face has obvious groove lines.
- Left Groove - S
The left-hand groove is gained by a traverse from the ribs on the left. 15m.
- Pink Pointless - E2,5b
A poor route on crumbly rock. Climb the undercut slab between Left and Right Groove to meet Right Groove at the base of the crack. Pull left into a scoop, which is followed to the finish. 15m.
- Right Groove - E2,5b
Perhaps the worst route on Gower. Loose in its upper section. The obvious 'jam' crack in the upper right wall of the tower is gained from the loose groove running up from the start of Pink Pointless and turns very crunchy at 20m. 25m.
- South West Diedre - J.Talbot 1969
- Left Groove - Unknown Pre-1981
- Pink Pointless - M. Crocker 10.01.1999
- Right Groove - Unknown Pre-1981