Paviland Way Out West
| Paviland Way Out West | |
| ( Quarter Dome Slabs ) | |
 | |
| Rock Type | Natural Carboniferous Limestone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Trad |
| Approach Time | 30 minutes |
| Area | Gower |
| Sub Area | Thurba to Overton |
| Local Area | Paviland and Juniper Wall |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.550892, -4.258066 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SS 436 860 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.561586, -4.242797 |
| GR Parking Location | SS 446 871 |
| Parking Postcode | SA3 1PE |
| Base Elevation | 20 metres (Other) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | South East |
| Aspect | Sunny |
| Wind Sheltered | Mostly |
| Climbing Type | Normal |
| Seepage | Quick drying |
| Crags Within 400m | |
|
Above Freelunchers Zawn, Below East Gully Groove, Deborah's Overhang, Deborah's Zawn, Eos Zawn, Juniper Wall, Liberty Zawn, Paviland Far Far Far West, Paviland Far Far West, Paviland Far West, Paviland Main Cliff, Paviland Way Out West, Seaspit Small Cove, Stallion Cove, TV Zawn, The Hole, The Knave, Third Sister, Tooth Fairy | |
TIDAL STATUS
Non-tidal.
BOLTING POLICY
No bolting.
ACCESS
Access from the free parking at Pilton Green, (SS 446 871 or 51.561586, -4.242797). On the right-hand side of the B4247, approx. 2 miles before Rhossili. Park on the grass at the edge of the track leading to a farm. Cross the road, bear left and take the public footpath (signposted to Foxhole Slade) through the 'kissing-gate' on the left of the sandy-coloured house (Clifflands). Reach the top of a dry valley after about 20 minutes and numerous gates. (1.34km). At the landward end of the valley is a wooden kissing-gate (SS 438860).
Go through the gate at the top of the valley and descend a few metres to a green-painted steel gate.
After passing through the green gate, the coast path rises steeply then flattens out parallel to the fence line. Proceed diagonally west across the sward keeping just left of the island of gorse then walk down to the top of the zawn between the two obvious headlands.
Go carefully along the top of the west side of the zawn and then up to a col. Cross the col and take the easy ramp rightwards down to the foot of the slabs.
DESCENTS
From the top head right (east) to gain the gully initially used to approach the crag (i.e. that above Paviland Far Far West).
The Routes
These are the fairly vegetated west-south-west facing slabs above and east of Stallion Cove.
- Flaming June!? 20m E2,5b
A delicious clean slab topped by nonsense. Start about 30m left (west) of the bounding ridge and col on the right. Take easy flake cracks onto the smoother grey slabs and climb direct on pockets, TR, to a bulge. Pull up onto the leaning wall and go up to the top. - Winter Looms So Soon 25m E2,5b
Start 10m left of Flaming June!? beneath the most prominent overhang at 15m. Climb a fairly obvious right-facing flake crack then transfer left onto another, old TR. Trend slightly right to a fawn coloured scoop in a bulge. Pull through the scoop to good incuts and move up to the overhang. Surmount the roof on the right and finish up the headwall, taking care with the exit.
FIRST ASCENTS
- Flaming June!? - M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.06.1998
- 'Winter Looms So Soon - M.Crocker 10.10.1998
