Paviland Way Out West

From South Wales Climbing Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search
Paviland Way Out West
( Quarter Dome Slabs )
Crag Shot quarter dome slabs.jpg
Rock Type Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Trad
Approach Time 30 minutes
Area Gower
Sub Area Thurba to Overton
Local Area Paviland and Juniper Wall
WGS-84 Location 51.550892, -4.258066
OS Grid Ref. SS 436 860
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.561586, -4.242797
GR Parking Location SS 446 871
Parking Postcode SA3 1PE
Base Elevation 20 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction South East
Aspect Sunny
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type Normal
Seepage Quick drying
Crags Within 400m

Above Freelunchers Zawn, Below East Gully Groove, Deborah's Overhang, Deborah's Zawn, Eos Zawn, Juniper Wall, Liberty Zawn, Paviland Far Far Far West, Paviland Far Far West, Paviland Far West, Paviland Main Cliff, Paviland Way Out West, Seaspit Small Cove, Stallion Cove, TV Zawn, The Hole, The Knave, Third Sister, Tooth Fairy




No bolting.


Access from the free parking at Pilton Green, (SS 446 871 or 51.561586, -4.242797). On the right-hand side of the B4247, approx. 2 miles before Rhossili. Park on the grass at the edge of the track leading to a farm. Cross the road, bear left and take the public footpath (signposted to Foxhole Slade) through the 'kissing-gate' on the left of the sandy-coloured house (Clifflands). Reach the top of a dry valley after about 20 minutes and numerous gates. (1.34km). At the landward end of the valley is a wooden kissing-gate (SS 438860).

Go through the gate at the top of the valley and descend a few metres to a green-painted steel gate.

After passing through the green gate, the coast path rises steeply then flattens out parallel to the fence line. Proceed diagonally west across the sward keeping just left of the island of gorse then walk down to the top of the zawn between the two obvious headlands.

Go carefully along the top of the west side of the zawn and then up to a col. Cross the col and take the easy ramp rightwards down to the foot of the slabs.


From the top head right (east) to gain the gully initially used to approach the crag (i.e. that above Paviland Far Far West).

The Routes

These are the fairly vegetated west-south-west facing slabs above and east of Stallion Cove.

  1. Flaming June!? 20m E2,5b
    A delicious clean slab topped by nonsense. Start about 30m left (west) of the bounding ridge and col on the right. Take easy flake cracks onto the smoother grey slabs and climb direct on pockets, TR, to a bulge. Pull up onto the leaning wall and go up to the top.

  2. Winter Looms So Soon 25m E2,5b
    Start 10m left of Flaming June!? beneath the most prominent overhang at 15m. Climb a fairly obvious right-facing flake crack then transfer left onto another, old TR. Trend slightly right to a fawn coloured scoop in a bulge. Pull through the scoop to good incuts and move up to the overhang. Surmount the roof on the right and finish up the headwall, taking care with the exit.


  1. Flaming June!? - M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.06.1998
  2. 'Winter Looms So Soon - M.Crocker 10.10.1998