Blackhole Gut
| Blackhole Gut | |
 | |
| Rock Type | Natural Carboniferous Limestone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Trad |
| Approach Time | 40 minutes |
| Area | Gower |
| Sub Area | Thurba to Overton |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.547641, -4.248656 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SS 44178 85591 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.561586, -4.242797 |
| GR Parking Location | SS 446 871 |
| Parking Postcode | SA3 1PE |
| Base Elevation | 12 metres (Other) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | South |
| Aspect | Partially Sunny |
| Wind Sheltered | Mostly |
| Climbing Type | Serious |
| Seepage | Quick drying |
| Crags Within 600m | |
|
Below East Gully Groove, Black Hole Crag, Blackhole Gut, Devil's Cwm, Eos Zawn, Fetlock Zawn, Hollow Top, Horses Cliff, Juniper Wall, Liberty Zawn, Paviland Far Far West, Paviland Far West, Paviland Main Cliff, Stalking Horse Zawn, Upper Blackhole Crag, White Pillar, Yellow Buttress | |
Contents
PREAMBLE
Known as Blackhole Gut by locals and the Ordnance Survey.[1] but appeared as Devil's Cwm in Gower & S.E. Wales (2003).
It's a large zawn.
There is scope for more routes on the zawn's back-wall. Also more routes possible in the zawn itself though these routes are likely to be tidal.
TIDAL STATUS
The single climb currently recorded here is non-tidal.
BOLTING POLICY
ACCESS
1. Access from the free parking at Pilton Green, (SS 446 871 or 51.561586, -4.242797). On the right-hand side of the B4247, approx. 2 miles before Rhossili. Park on the grass at the edge of the track leading to a farm. Cross the road, bear left and take the public footpath (signposted to Foxhole Slade) through the 'kissing-gate' on the left of the sandy-coloured house (Clifflands). Reach the top of a dry valley after about 20 minutes and numerous gates. (1.34km). At the landward end of the valley is a wooden kissing-gate (SS 438860).
Go through the kissing gate, descend a short way (to the Wales Coast Path) and then turn left (east - signposted to Port Eynon) up the steep side of the valley and then head east for 160m on the path until you get to a broad vague valley leading down to the sea. Follow the valley downwards (for 200m) on a narrow path.
From the bottom of the valley, continue eastwards along the lower, (and somewhat precarious) coast path for some 450 metres (it will feel longer) passing Horses Cliff, around Fetlock Zawn, over the fence and then past Yellow Buttress. Traverse round the top of the back of the zawn (harrowing when wet) and get into it from its east side.
2. Alternatively, Follow access notes for White Pillar and then, from the top belay of White Pillar, go to the 'notch' in the ridge and follow a narrow path/ledge westward which crosses the cliff face. After 90 metres or so, you will find yourself on the eastern side of a large zawn. This is Blackhole Gut.
DESCENTS
Either by abseil or a by scramble from the east side of the zawn.
The Routes
- The Freaks Come Out - 20m E4,6a *
The overhanging back wall of the zawn. Start from a slight ledge on the left (west) wall of the underlying zawn, 3m left of the chimney line. From the first break move left to gain a handrail just over the lip of the second bulge. Swing left and pull up to a leftward-trending pocket line, which is followed to a second pocket line on the left TR. Launch up the leaning headwall, TR and swing left to the lip to exit leftwards. A pre-placed belay rope is strongly advised.
First Ascents
- M.Crocker, R.Thomas 11th January 1999
