Fetlock Zawn

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Fetlock Zawn
West Wall
West Wall
Rock Type Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Sport
Approach Time 35 minutes
Area Gower
Sub Area Thurba to Overton
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.548528, -4.250472
OS Grid Ref. SS 440 856
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.561586, -4.242797
GR Parking Location SS 446871
Parking Postcode SA3 1PE
Base Elevation 2 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction South East
Aspect Partially Sunny
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type Normal
Seepage Quick drying
Tidal
Before/After Low Tide 3.0 hours (See Note)
Crags Within 400m

Below East Gully Groove, Blackhole Gut, Devil's Cwm, Eos Zawn, Fetlock Zawn, Hollow Top, Horses Cliff, Juniper Wall, Liberty Zawn, Paviland Main Cliff, Stalking Horse Zawn, White Pillar, Yellow Buttress



Fetlock Zawn
Sport Grades
<= 6a+ 2
6b - 6c+ 5
7a - 7b 0
>= 7b+ 0

BOLTING POLICY

PREAMBLE

Zawn with a bulging west wall below Horses Cliff.

ACCESS

Access from the free parking at Pilton Green, (SS 446 871 or 51.561586, -4.242797). On the right-hand side of the B4247, approx. 2 miles before Rhossili. Park on the grass at the edge of the track leading to a farm. Cross the road, bear left and take the public footpath (signposted to Foxhole Slade) through the 'kissing-gate' on the left of the sandy-coloured house (Clifflands). Reach the top of a dry valley after about 20 minutes and numerous gates. (1.34km). At the landward end of the valley is a wooden kissing-gate (SS 438860).

Go through the kissing gate, descend a short way (to the Wales Coast Path) and then turn left (east - signposted to Port Eynon) up the steep side of the valley and then head east for 160m on the path until you get to a broad vague valley leading down to the sea. Follow the valley downwards (for 200m) on a narrow path.

From the bottom of the dry valley, go along the left (east) side of the zawn and then head east along a precarious (in places) path for 130m. You should see a horse head in profile (Horses Cliff).

Go over the col below the horse's head and then scramble round and up to and across the fence. From the fence, head east a little way (40m) to find an easy point from which to descend to the rocks and then work your way back to the east side of the zawn.

Now, when just above the zawn, descend into it via an easy ramp situated towards the landward end.

N.B. The approach described here is probably the easiest for the first-time visitor.

Tidal Status

When there are heavy seas the 6 hour climbable time will be considerably less.

THE ROUTES

  1. Brood Mare - Fr. 6a **
    A steep start to gain the ramp leads up L of the shield then traverse R to shared belay.

  2. Get off Your High Horse - VS, 5a
    Swing up onto the obvious leftward rising ramp then proceed easily to the top taking care with the finishing scree slope.No bolts to be clipped or you will be despatched to purgatory pending investigation by the bolt policy sub sub committe.

  3. Stud Farm - Fr. 6b *
    Steeper start,passing thread tape then swing right onto bulge and shared belay.

  4. Bare Back Rider - Fr. 6b *
    A very steep start then the crack in the centre of the shield gained by undercuts. Move R to shared belay.

  5. Pulling Back - Fr. 6b **
    The usual steep start to the flake then amble up the slab.The "easiest" of the trio.

  6. Crib Biter - Fr. 6b+ ***
    Steep start leads to contrasting slabby finale.

  7. Stallions Beans - Fr. 6c+*
    Launch across the zawn and pull madly on pockets until it eases.

  8. Saddle Sore - Fr. 6b *
    A short addition gained by the faint steep crack.

First Ascents

  1. Brood Mare - Tess Tickle 2020
  2. Get off Your High Horse - T.U. Rettes, P.Rickes & S.Wearing
  3. Stud Farm - Ben Dover 2020
  4. Bare Back Rider - Phil McAvity 2020
  5. Pulling Back - B.Ellend 2020
  6. Crib Biter - Tess Tickle Goi Ashmore May 2021
  7. Stallions Beans- Ben Dover, Phil McAvity & C.Aries Sept 2021
  8. Saddle Sore - Huw Janus & Ed Chapman Aug 2021

ADDITIONAL PHOTOS

Notes