Stalking Horse Zawn
|Stalking Horse Zawn|
The West Wall
|Rock Type||Natural Carboniferous Limestone|
|Approach Time||30 minutes|
|Sub Area||Thurba to Overton|
|WGS-84 Location||51.548705, -4.251479|
|OS Grid Ref.||SS 439 857|
|WGS-84 Parking Location||51.561586, -4.242797|
|GR Parking Location||SS 446 871|
|Parking Postcode||SA3 1AY|
|Base Elevation||2 metres (Other)|
|Faces Direction||South East|
|Before/After Low Tide||3.0 hours (See Note)|
|Crags Within a Half Mile.|
Above Freelunchers Zawn, Below East Gully Groove, Black Hole Crag, Blackhole Gut, Deborah's Overhang, Devil's Cwm, Eos Zawn, Fetlock Zawn, Hollow Top, Horses Cliff, Juniper Wall, Liberty Zawn, Paviland Far Far Far West, Paviland Far Far West, Paviland Far West, Paviland Main Cliff, Paviland Way Out West, Seaspit Small Cove, Stalking Horse Zawn, Stallion Cove, TV Zawn, The Hole, The Knave, Third Sister, Tooth Fairy, Upper Blackhole Crag, White Pillar, Yellow Buttress
|Stalking Horse Zawn|
|6b - 6c+||6|
|7a - 7b||0|
Narrow tidal zawn 200 metres east of the well-known Juniper Wall. Atmospheric.
When there is a swell on, then available climbing time may be considerably less than 6 hours.
Excellent place to chill on the flat(ish) raised beach just to the east of the zawn.
Access from the free parking at Pilton Green, (SS 446 871 or 51.561586, -4.242797). On the right-hand side of the B4247, approx. 2 miles from Rhossili. Park on the grass at the edge of the track leading to a farm. Cross the road, bear left and take the public footpath (signposted to Foxhole Slade) through the 'kissing-gate' on the left of the sandy-coloured house (Clifflands). Reach the top of a dry valley after about 20 minutes and numerous gates. (1.34km). At the landward end of the valley is a wooden kissing-gate (SS 438860).
Go through the kissing gate, descend a short way (to the Wales Coast Path) and then turn left (east - signposted to Port Eynon) up the steep side of the valley and then head east for 160m on the path until you get to a broad vague valley leading down to the sea. Follow the valley downwards (for 200m) on a narrow path.
From the bottom of the dry valley head east (L) along the side of the deep zawn then follow the coast and then gingerly take the narrow path crossing above Stalking Horse Zawn. It's possible to descend the grassy slope on the east side of the zawn and then step off the brecchia onto the raised beach. Leave rucksacks here. You can abseil into (or scramble down to) the zawn from here.
It's probably easier to get to the base of the climbs by going back and scrambling along the west side of the zawn until you are able to take the slabby ramp down into the zawn. (see topo photo).
The seaward end of the steep W face can by gained by scrambling easily down to a ramp.
- Malopolski - Fr 6b+
L hand direct line, cut through the diagonal crack, shares same belay as Horse Wessel.
- Cerbat Mustang - Fr. 6b +
Steeply up the wall to share belay with Suffolk Punch.
- Suffolk Punch - Fr. 6c+
Gain the diagonal crack then steeply up the wall.
- Horse Wessel - Fr. 6b+
The obvious diagonal crack with some fierce jamming, move around corner at the end to share belay of Malopolski.
- Paso Fino - Fr 6c
The steep wall left of the arête of the flaky corner.
- Frisky Foal - Fr. 5+ *
Climb R from the ramp belay and up the flaky corner, tricky to start. If climbing at your limit pre-clipping the 2nd bolt might preserve your ankles.
- Filly Buster - Fr. 5
Wall R of flaky corner.
- Jockey Club - Fr. 5+ **
Continue traversing R from previous. Either belay at a small spike or launch straight up steep flakes. Atmospheric.
- Sara's Pretty Likkle Pony - Diff ****
Juggy romp, centre E wall.
- Naughty Little Bucker - Diff *
R edge of E wall.
9m east of the zawn is a large blowhole. Descend by either abseil or short scramble
- Project -
- Pocket Universe - Fr. 5+
A classic of the genre, squirm, back 'n foot up the chimney.
- Guth's Gut - Fr. 6c+
3D climbing, battle up the gaping rift to shared belay on L.
- Malopolski - G.Ashmore & R.Thomas April 2021
- Cerbat Mustang - G.Ashmore & R.Thomas April 2021
- Suffolk Punch - G.Ashmore & V.A Gazzle 11.04.2021
- Horse Wessel - G.Ashmore & V.A Gazzle 11.04.2021
- Paso Fino - Goi Ashmore & Taj Dhallu May 2021
- Frisky Foal - Ben Dover & Geraint Morris April 2021
- Filly Buster - F. Rapper & Geraint Morris April 2021
- Jockey Club 2 - Tess Tickle & Geraint Morris April 2021
- Sara's Pretty Likkle Pony - Roy Thomas solo 2020
- Naughty Little Bucker - Roy Thomas solo 2020
- Project -
- Pocket Universe - G.Ashmore, B.Ellend & Geraint 'Moz' Morris April 2021
- Guths Gut - G.Ashmore & S.Megma April 2021
Above Stalking Horse Zawn