Stalking Horse Zawn

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Stalking Horse Zawn
The West Wall
The West Wall
Rock Type Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Sport
Approach Time 30 minutes
Area Gower
Sub Area Thurba to Overton
Local Area Hollow Top to White Pillar
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.548705, -4.251479
OS Grid Ref. SS 439 857
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.561586, -4.242797
GR Parking Location SS 446 871
Parking Postcode SA3 1AY
Base Elevation 2 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction South East
Aspect Partially Sunny
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type Normal
Midge Problem Never
Seepage Never
Tidal
Before/After Low Tide 3.0 hours (See Note)
Crags Within 600m

Above Freelunchers Zawn, Below East Gully Groove, Blackhole Gut, Devil's Cwm, Eos Zawn, Fetlock Zawn, Hollow Top, Horses Cliff, Juniper Wall, Liberty Zawn, Paviland Far Far Far West, Paviland Far Far West, Paviland Far West, Paviland Main Cliff, Paviland Way Out West, Seaspit Small Cove, Stalking Horse Zawn, Stallion Cove, The Hole, White Pillar, Yellow Buttress

Stalking Horse Zawn
Sport Grades
<= 6a+ 4
6b - 6c+ 6
7a - 7b 0
>= 7b+ 0

PREAMBLE

Narrow tidal zawn 200 metres east of the well-known Juniper Wall. Atmospheric.

When there is a swell on, then available climbing time may be considerably less than 6 hours.

Excellent place to chill on the flat(ish) raised beach just to the east of the zawn.

ACCESS

Access from the free parking at Pilton Green, (SS 446 871 or 51.561586, -4.242797). On the right-hand side of the B4247, approx. 2 miles before Rhossili. Park on the grass at the edge of the track leading to a farm. Cross the road, bear left and take the public footpath (signposted to Foxhole Slade) through the 'kissing-gate' on the left of the sandy-coloured house (Clifflands). Reach the top of a dry valley after about 20 minutes and numerous gates. (1.34km). At the landward end of the valley is a wooden kissing-gate (SS 438860).

Go through the kissing gate, descend a short way (to the Wales Coast Path) and then turn left (east - signposted to Port Eynon) up the steep side of the valley and then head east for 160m on the path until you get to a broad vague valley leading down to the sea. Follow the valley downwards (for 200m) on a narrow path.

From the bottom of the dry valley head east (L) along the side of the deep zawn then follow the coast and then gingerly take the narrow path crossing above Stalking Horse Zawn. It's possible to descend the grassy slope on the east side of the zawn and then step off the brecchia onto the raised beach. Leave rucksacks here. You can abseil into (or scramble down to) the zawn from here.

It's probably easier to get to the base of the climbs by going back and scrambling along the west side of the zawn until you are able to take the slabby ramp down into the zawn. (see topo photo).

THE ROUTES

The seaward end of the steep W face can by gained by scrambling easily down to a ramp.

West Wall

topo of Stalking Horse Zawn, Gower, South Wales
West Wall
Photo taken at a high-ish state of the tide. Routes Frisky Foal and right can be started at the sloping ledge (as marked).
  1. Malopolski - Fr 6b+
    L hand direct line, cut through the diagonal crack, shares same belay as Horse Wessel.

  2. Cerbat Mustang - Fr. 6b +
    Steeply up the wall to share belay with Suffolk Punch.

  3. Suffolk Punch - Fr. 6c+
    Gain the diagonal crack then steeply up the wall.

  4. Horse Wessel - Fr. 6b+
    The obvious diagonal crack with some fierce jamming, move around corner at the end to share belay of Malopolski.

  5. Paso Fino - Fr 6c
    The steep wall left of the arête of the flaky corner.

  6. Frisky Foal - Fr. 5+ *
    Climb R from the ramp belay and up the flaky corner, tricky to start. If climbing at your limit pre-clipping the 2nd bolt might preserve your ankles.

  7. Filly Buster - Fr. 5
    Wall R of flaky corner.

  8. Jockey Club - Fr. 5+ **
    Continue traversing R from previous. Either belay at a small spike or launch straight up steep flakes. Atmospheric.

East Wall

  1. Sara's Pretty Likkle Pony - Diff ****
    Juggy romp, centre E wall.

  2. Naughty Little Bucker - Diff *
    R edge of E wall.

The Blowhole

9m east of the zawn is a large blowhole. Descend by either abseil or short scramble

  1. Project -

  2. Pocket Universe - Fr. 5+
    A classic of the genre, squirm, back 'n foot up the chimney.

  3. Guth's Gut - Fr. 6c+
    3D climbing, battle up the gaping rift to shared belay on L.

First Ascents

West Wall

  1. Malopolski - G.Ashmore & R.Thomas April 2021
  2. Cerbat Mustang - G.Ashmore & R.Thomas April 2021
  3. Suffolk Punch - G.Ashmore & V.A Gazzle 11.04.2021
  4. Horse Wessel - G.Ashmore & V.A Gazzle 11.04.2021
  5. Paso Fino - Goi Ashmore & Taj Dhallu May 2021
  6. Frisky Foal - Ben Dover & Geraint Morris April 2021
  7. Filly Buster - F. Rapper & Geraint Morris April 2021
  8. Jockey Club 2 - Tess Tickle & Geraint Morris April 2021


East Wall

  1. Sara's Pretty Likkle Pony - Roy Thomas solo 2020
  2. Naughty Little Bucker - Roy Thomas solo 2020


The Blowhole

  1. Project -
  2. Pocket Universe - G.Ashmore, B.Ellend & Geraint 'Moz' Morris April 2021
  3. Guths Gut - G.Ashmore & S.Megma April 2021

ADDITIONAL PHOTOS

Notes