Deborah's Overhang
| Deborah's Overhang | |
 | |
| Rock Type | Natural Carboniferous Limestone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Sport |
| Approach Time | 38 minutes |
| Area | Gower |
| Sub Area | Thurba to Overton |
| Local Area | Three Sisters |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.553830, -4.261632 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SS 433 863 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.561586, -4.242797 |
| GR Parking Location | SS 446 871 |
| Parking Postcode | SA3 1PE |
| Base Elevation | 5 metres (Other) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | South |
| Aspect | Sunny |
| Wind Sheltered | Mostly |
| Climbing Type | Serious |
| Seepage | Needs a long dry spell |
| Crags Within 400m | |
|
Above Freelunchers Zawn, Deborah's Overhang, Deborah's Zawn, First Sister, Paviland Far Far Far West, Paviland Far Far West, Paviland Far West, Paviland Way Out West, Rams Grove Crag, Seaspit Small Cove, Second Sister, Sister 2 and Half, Stallion Cove, TV Zawn, The Crag That Time Forgot, The Hole, The Knave, Third Sister, Tooth Fairy | |
Contents
Access
Access from the free parking at Pilton Green, (SS 446 871 or 51.561586, -4.242797). On the right-hand side of the B4247, approx. 2 miles before Rhossili. Park on the grass at the edge of the track leading to a farm. Cross the road, bear left and take the public footpath (signposted to Foxhole Slade) through the 'kissing-gate' on the left of the sandy-coloured house (Clifflands). Reach the top of a dry valley after about 20 minutes and numerous gates. (1.34km). At the landward end of the valley is a wooden kissing-gate (SS 438860).
Go through the gate and then, after a few metres of descent, join the Wales Coast Path' and then go through a green-painted steel gate on your right (signposted to Rhossili) and then go up the steep path 30 metres to the top.
At the top, head west along the wide and grassy path until you reach a gate/wall after 300 metres. Go through the gate/wall and, at a split in the footpath after 90m, take the left fork and follow the Coast Path for a further 300m as it winds through patches of gorse. Go down a short section between high gorse and hawthorn bushes to another gate. You can check your location by looking down the dry valley to your left; you will see a small pinnacle on the far side of the valley and also an agricultural roller in the corner of the field to your right. (8 minutes and 800m from steel gate)
Go down the dry valley on your left, (you will see a small pinnacle on the right side of the valley). Walk and then scramble 200m down some awkward, steep and gravelly paths until you see the impressive Deborah's Overhang on your right. (10 mins) 40 minutes from parking.
Bolting Policy
Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.
Preamble
An impressive roof with some bouldering right at its foot. This is a special place. There's even fresh water emerging from the cave at the bottom.
Descents
By lower-off on some of the routes. Other routes at Deborah’s Overhang descent is made by walking off right (east) from the top.
The Routes
- State of Grace 45m E4,5c,6a *
The second pitch takes the large roof on the left of the crag and is characterised by two large holes.
- 21m Climb a shallow groove below the left-hand (west) side of the roof to a big ledge. PB.
- 24m Move left off the ledge and follow pockets past two holes to good belays well back, TRs.
- Closed Project
Row of rusty bolts over the roof above the chain of Debauching Deborah. - Debauching Deborah - Fr. 6c *
In the centre of the crag, is a clean white groove leading to a platform below the roof. Start on the false beach immediately below the groove at vague ramp. Climb this to a slab and wander up to the cave. From the cave pull left into and go up the white scoop and arête to a BB just below the roof. Abseil. 20m. - Deborah - Fr. 6c+
Start on the gravel directly below a large hole and right of the start of Debauching Deborah. Climb the roof, 2BRs, harder than it looks, to a ledge, then easily to a roof. Traverse off right to finish.The rusty bolts in the roof up and left are a long term project. 21m. - Hydraulic Lunch - Fr. 7c+ * [1]
The old aid route through the right-hand side of the main roof proves painful and difficult! Ten mono cranks on old bolt holes lead to a jug and a pull on an evil sloper round the roof. A left hand little finger crank gains the "chain".
At east end of the overhang are two routes. The first one starts immediately right of the end of the roof. 15m. - Three Minute Hero - Fr. 7a+ *
Make dynamic moves up past a good Friend. If successful, clip some bolts, gain a hole and the easy upper section. A belay can be found on the rocks behind the terrace. 18m. - Ground Control - E4,6b
The crack and groove 3m right of Three Minute Hero. 15m.
Additional Photos
First Ascents
- State of Grace - A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 08.03.1986
- Closed project -
- Debauching Deborah - R.Thomas 00.00.1997
- Deborah - A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985
- Hydraulic Lunch - J.Talbot, B.Talbot - Deborah's Overhang 00.00.1966
FFA G.Ashmore 03.05.1996 - Three Minute Hero - A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985
- Ground Control - A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985
Notes
- ↑ Is this the same route as described in A Berry, Gower Sport Climbing 1997), p.3; i.e. Hydraulic Despotism, E7 6c [8a]** 20m ?
