Below East Gully Groove

Below East Gully Groove
Rock Type	Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style	Trad
Approach Time	35 minutes
Area	Gower
Sub Area	Thurba to Overton
Local Area	Paviland and Juniper Wall
Geodata
WGS-84 Location	51.550047, -4.256228
OS Grid Ref.	SS 436 858
WGS-84 Parking Location	51.561586, -4.242797
GR Parking Location	SS 446871
Parking Postcode	SA3 1PE
Base Elevation	0 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction	Various
Aspect	Partially Sunny
Wind Sheltered	Seldomly
Climbing Type	Normal
Seepage	Quick drying
Tidal
Before/After Low Tide	1.0 hours (See Note)
Crags Within 400m
Above Freelunchers Zawn, Below East Gully Groove, Eos Zawn, Fetlock Zawn, Hollow Top, Horses Cliff, Juniper Wall, Liberty Zawn, Paviland Far Far Far West, Paviland Far Far West, Paviland Far West, Paviland Main Cliff, Paviland Way Out West, Seaspit Small Cove, Stalking Horse Zawn, Stallion Cove, The Hole

TIDAL STATUS

1 hr either side of low tide.

ACCESS

Access from the free parking at Pilton Green, (SS 446 871 or 51.561586, -4.242797). On the right-hand side of the B4247, approx. 2 miles before Rhossili. Park on the grass at the edge of the track leading to a farm. Cross the road, bear left and take the public footpath (signposted to Foxhole Slade) through the 'kissing-gate' on the left of the sandy-coloured house (Clifflands). Reach the top of a dry valley after about 20 minutes and numerous gates. (1.34km). At the landward end of the valley is a wooden kissing-gate (SS 438860).

Go down the dry valley opposite and work your way down the tidal gully and around to the west (right).

The Routes

The line of weakness in the cliff taken by East Gully Groove also extends down into a zawn, the landward end of which is non-tidal. The zawn can be accessed down the eastern bank. A few poor routes of minor interest have been done. The most leftmost route starts at a slightly lower level than the other three and can identified by two old in-situ TRs.

1. Mouse House - E2,5c
   The aforementioned route with 2TRs. The best route in the zawn. 9m.
   
   
2. Ferret - HVS,5a
   To the right of Mouse House is a rock step. Starting from near the left-hand end of the rock step, climb directly to the top, via a good spike runner. 7m.
   
   
3. Shrew - HVS,5a
   Climb the wall 2m right of Ferret, with a sling to protect the top out. 7m.
   
   
4. Rat - E3,6a
   To the right is a prominent flake crack, which looks from below like it tops out onto hideously loose blocks. Fortunately the blocks seem to be sound. Gain the flake crack from the left using pockets (good wires) and blast quickly up the crack to a bold, but easier finish. 9.
   
   The following routes have proved very difficult to locate, even the first ascensionists having forgotten their whereabouts. They are in this zawn, probably at the tidal end.
   
   
5. Ice Age - E3,5c
   The obvious layback crack in the left side of the zawn. Finish direct. 15m.
   
   
6. Down Under - E5,6a *
   A strenuous number. Start 6m right of Ice Age and climb an obvious line of leftward-trending flakes over a roof to the top. 21m.
   
   
7. Squeeze Please - VS,4c
   The chimney at the back of the zawn, finishing behind the chockstone 18m.
   
   

First Ascents

1. Mouse House - P.Donnithorne 00.00.1988
2. Ferret - P.Donnithorne 00.00.1988
3. Shrew - P.Donnithorne 00.00.1988
4. Rat - P.Donnithorne 00.00.1988
5. Ice Age - A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.02.1986
6. Down Under - A.Sharp, P.Lewis, P.Thomas 00.00.1985
7. Squeeze Please - P.Thomas, P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1985