Liberty Zawn

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Liberty Zawn
( Ogof Y Mor )
Cragshot liberty zawn.jpg
Rock Type Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Trad
Approach Time 30 minutes
Area Gower
Sub Area Thurba to Overton
Local Area Paviland and Juniper Wall
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.550013, -4.255661
OS Grid Ref. SS 437 858
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.561586, -4.242797
GR Parking Location SS 446871
Parking Postcode SA3 1PE
Base Elevation 0 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction Various
Aspect Partially Sunny
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type
Seepage
Tidal
Before/After Low Tide 1.5 hours (See Note)
Crags Within 400m

Above Freelunchers Zawn, Below East Gully Groove, Eos Zawn, Fetlock Zawn, Hollow Top, Horses Cliff, Juniper Wall, Liberty Zawn, Paviland Far Far Far West, Paviland Far Far West, Paviland Far West, Paviland Main Cliff, Paviland Way Out West, Seaspit Small Cove, Stalking Horse Zawn, Stallion Cove, The Hole



ACCESS

Access from the free parking at Pilton Green, (SS 446 871 or 51.561586, -4.242797). On the right-hand side of the B4247, approx. 2 miles before Rhossili. Park on the grass at the edge of the track leading to a farm. Cross the road, bear left and take the public footpath (signposted to Foxhole Slade) through the 'kissing-gate' on the left of the sandy-coloured house (Clifflands). Reach the top of a dry valley after about 20 minutes and numerous gates. (1.34km). At the landward end of the valley is a wooden kissing-gate (SS 438860).

Go through the gate and then head down the valley to a point where you can cross a fence and scramble along the western side of the narrow zawn. At a suitable point (apparently) you can abseil into the zawn.

It’s also possible to get into the zawn at lowish states of the tide by following the valley down to the inter-tidal zone and beyond. This involves some rock hopping.

The zawn to the east also contains some easy scrambling.

TIDAL STATUS

1½ hours either side of low water.

BOLTING POLICY

No bolting.

DESCENTS

By abseil.

The Routes

West Wall

Liberty

The routes are described from right to left.

  1. Simple Minds - VS,4c
    The obvious ramp running up rightwards from the base of Liberty. 20m.

  2. Liberty - E2,5c **
    A sustained pitch, with good wires, taking the obvious cracks in the centre of the wall on superb rock. A TR (not in situ) protects the start. 12m.

  3. Mettel Fatigue - E3,6a *
    From 3m up Liberty, place the good wires and make a tricky 'fall' leftwards onto a vague ramp and pocket, to gain a small hole. Pull round the overlap above the hole and finish up the easier wall above. 12m.

East Wall

This is the west-facing wall of the gully.

  1. Yanks - E4,6c
    The obvious flake in the east wall of the gully has a very trying start, which, although theoretically 6b, is always so wet and barnacle encrusted that the 6c grade sticks - boots tend not to! Either lasso, or pre-clip runners at the top of the flake and climb to its top. Step slightly left and finish direct. 12m.

First Ascents

West Wall

  1. Simple Minds - P.Lewis, J.Harwood 09.02.1986
  2. Liberty - A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 09.02.1986
  3. Mettel Fatigue - A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 09.02.1986


East Wall

  1. Yanks - A.Sharp, J.Harwood 09.02.1986

Additional Photos

Notes