Paviland Far Far Far West
Access from the free parking at Pilton Green, (SS 446 871 or 51.561586, -4.242797). On the right-hand side of the B4247, approx. 2 miles from Rhossili. Park on the grass at the edge of the track leading to a farm. Cross the road, bear left and take the public footpath (signposted to Foxhole Slade) through the 'kissing-gate' on the left of the sandy-coloured house (Clifflands). Reach the top of a dry valley after about 20 minutes and numerous gates. (1.34km). At the landward end of the valley is a wooden kissing-gate (SS 438860).
Go through the gate at the top of the valley and descend a few metres to a green-painted steel gate.
After passing through the green gate, the coast path rises steeply then flattens out parallel to the fence line. Proceed diagonally west across the sward keeping just left of the island of gorse then walk down to the top of the zawn between the two obvious headlands.
Traverse the western size of the zawn (Freeluncher's Warm-Up Zawn) on a narrow exposed path and go up to the 'col'.
The face containing the routes could be reached by an easy scramble from the west starting at the col. Abseil approach is less stressful and is required for the top out anyway. The abseil is from just 20m east of the high point of the headland.
Descent is by abseil from the top. The finishes are loose and an abseil rope needs to be used to escape. The top is loose and requires care in placement of the abseil rope.
This is the south-facing slab at the front of the headland 250m west of Paviland Main Cliff, from which it is visible in profile. There are three slab climbs here at present, with considerable potential for further routes. The face containing the routes could be reached by an easy scramble from the west starting at the col to the north of the headland. Abseil approach is less stressful and is required for the top out anyway. The abseil is from a tat (back-up required) just 20m east of the high point of the headland.
At the left-hand side of the cliff is an obvious pink coloured niche at 20m. The three current routes take the smooth wide slab below the niche and end at the niche.
- The Time Directive 20m VS,4c
Start below a break in the left-hand side of the overhang, beneath the white slab. Pull through the overhang to a break. Climb straight up the slab to slot slightly to the left. Take the crack and the rib above and step right into the niche.
- On The Job 20m HVS,4c *
Pull up and left through the right-hand end of the overhang, then climb straight up to the niche.
- Spank Your Secretary 20m VS,4c
Towards the right side of the slab are twin cracks. Climb easily to gain the blind left-hand crack. This leads to a flake crack, which is followed leftwards to the niche.
- The Time Directive - M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.06.1998
- On The Job - M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.06.1998
- Spank Your Secretary - M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.06.1998