Eos Zawn

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Eos Zawn
( Groaning Hollow )
Eos Zawn and Juniper Wall
Eos Zawn and Juniper Wall
Rock Type Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Trad
Approach Time 30 minutes
Area Gower
Sub Area Thurba to Overton
Local Area Paviland and Juniper Wall
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.549400, -4.252918
OS Grid Ref. SS 438 857
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.561586, -4.242797
GR Parking Location SS 446871
Parking Postcode SA3 1PE
Base Elevation 0 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction Various
Aspect Partially Sunny
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type Normal
Seepage
Tidal
Before/After Low Tide 1.5 hours (See Note)
Crags Within 400m

Above Freelunchers Zawn, Below East Gully Groove, Blackhole Gut, Devil's Cwm, Eos Zawn, Fetlock Zawn, Hollow Top, Horses Cliff, Juniper Wall, Liberty Zawn, Paviland Far Far Far West, Paviland Far Far West, Paviland Far West, Paviland Main Cliff, Paviland Way Out West, Stalking Horse Zawn, Stallion Cove, White Pillar, Yellow Buttress


PREAMBLE

The zawn immediately to the east of Juniper Wall. According to J. Talbot, Hollow Top overlooks "Groaning Hollow" [1]

ACCESS

Access from the free parking at Pilton Green, (SS 446 871 or 51.561586, -4.242797). On the right-hand side of the B4247, approx. 2 miles before Rhossili. Park on the grass at the edge of the track leading to a farm. Cross the road, bear left and take the public footpath (signposted to Foxhole Slade) through the 'kissing-gate' on the left of the sandy-coloured house (Clifflands). Reach the top of a dry valley after about 20 minutes and numerous gates. (1.34km). At the landward end of the valley is a wooden kissing-gate (SS 438860).

Then go through the gate and then almost immediately take a left turn up the steep side of the valley (eastwards) and then, after 100 metres, descend the first valley on your right (south). Hollow Top is the large, rounded collection of slabs about 250 metres below on your left. Eos Zawn is the zawn at the foot of this valley.

You'll need to work out how to get into it.

TIDAL STATUS

Accessible 1 and a half hours either side of low tide.

BOLTING POLICY

No bolting.

The Routes

The following routes lie in the tidal zawn directly underneath Juniper Wall. Access is possible by walking across the zawn from the east side, or by abseiling down from the start of Socialist Worker. There is a prominent gully in the zawn.

Routes are best accessed by abseil.

  1. Here - HS,4b
    Climb to below the roof of Erinyes, then move out left across the smooth wall above the overhanging bulge to reach an indefinite fault line running up left. This point can also be reached direct from the narrowing of the gully. Climb this fault for a short way. Then exit directly up the wall. 12m.

  2. Erinyes - VD [2]
    Climb to the back wall and move up left below an obvious roof. Bridge up to its lip, then move left to get onto the small sloping slab above it. Continue up the corner direct to finish. 12m.

  3. Eos - D
    Climb into the gully by a ramp on its right side. Move to the foot of the overhanging wall at its back and climb the right corner. 18m.

  1. Here - J.Talbot 1972
  2. Erinyes - J.Talbot 1971
  3. Eos - J.Talbot 1971

Notes

  1. Gower Peninsula (1970), p. 83
  2. Given VI in Talbot (1973), p. 18