|6b - 6c+||2|
|7a - 7b||3|
|E1 - E3||1|
|E4 - E5||2|
Follow directions to Third Sister.
Descents from the Tooth Fairy's 3 trad routes are by scrambling up to the top of the ridge and then by walking down a terrace in either direction.
All of the sport routes have bolted lower-offs.
Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.
This is the white wall overlooking the Knave, just left of the path from Third Sister down to Deborah's zawn. A lovely sunny spot, little seepage and often out of the wind.
- Dentist's Chair - Fr. 6b+*
Climb the groove on the left (south) side of the tooth to a small overlap, step left into the main groove and follow this to the top. One of the upper bolts requires a long quickdraw. 18m
- Open Wide Please - Fr. 6c+ ***
Was a bold E5, now a lovely sport route. Trend left up the bulging wall into a cruxy open groove. 18m.
- Silver Sixpence - Fr. 7a ***
Beautiful sustained technical climbing up the pocketed overhanging wall forming the highest part of the crag. 18m.
- Gnasher - E5, 6a
Start at the foot of the obvious left-facing flake crack in the centre of the tooth. Climb the crack to its close at a leftward-rising break. Finger traverse left along the break for 2m, then take the pockets and flakes straight up over a slight bulge, PR (gone), to bigger holds and the narrow terrace. 17m.
- Brass Farthing - Fr. 7a *
Crimpy climbing up the brass-coloured compact wall right of the groove leads to an interesting sequence on the bulging wall. 15m.
- Wisdom - Fr. 7a **
Shares the first bolt with Brass Farthing but trends right. A boulderer's delight. 15m.
- E By Gum - E5, 6a *
A new form of substance abuse for carrot crunchers and other southerners. Start 2m right of Gnasher at the base of the pink wall. Reach an obvious left-facing fin and continue slightly left to a bulge. Pass the bulge using a jug on the right and proceed up the incipient groove to a broken terrace and the top of the tooth on the left. 15m.
- Scurvy - E3, 5c
From a point 2½m left of the right end of the underlying ledge, climb up to the obvious pocket at 4m. Pull up and trend right to flakes and a loose exit onto the terrace. 10m.
- Dentist's Chair - A.Sharp, P.Lewis & J.Harwood 24.10.1987, Bolted 2021
- Open Wide Please - A.Sharp & P.Lewis 24.10.1987, Bolted 2021
- Silver Sixpence - Danny McCarroll & John Bullock May 2021
- Gnasher - M.Crocker 31.05.1998
- Brass Farthing - Danny McCarroll & John Bullock May 2021
- Wisdom - Bethan McCarroll & Danny McCarroll June 2021
- E By Gum - M.Crocker & J.Harwood 26.04.1998
- Scurvy - M.Crocker 31.05.1998