Tooth Fairy
| Tooth Fairy | |
 | |
| Rock Type | Natural Carboniferous Limestone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Sport/Trad |
| Approach Time | 35 minutes |
| Area | Gower |
| Sub Area | Thurba to Overton |
| Local Area | Three Sisters |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.553687, -4.262429 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SS 432 862 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.561586, -4.242797 |
| GR Parking Location | SS 446 871 |
| Parking Postcode | SA3 1AY |
| Base Elevation | 12 metres (Other) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | South East |
| Aspect | Partially Sunny |
| Wind Sheltered | Mostly |
| Climbing Type | Normal |
| Seepage | Quick drying |
| Crags Within 400m | |
|
Above Freelunchers Zawn, Deborah's Overhang, Deborah's Zawn, First Sister, Paviland Far Far Far West, Paviland Far Far West, Paviland Far West, Paviland Way Out West, Rams Grove Crag, Rams Grove Seaward Crag, Seaspit Small Cove, Second Sister, Sister 2 and Half, Stallion Cove, TV Zawn, The Hole, The Knave, Third Sister, Tooth Fairy | |
| Tooth Fairy | |
| Sport Grades | |
| <= 6a+ | 0 |
| 6b - 6c+ | 2 |
| 7a - 7b | 3 |
| >= 7b+ | 0 |
| Tooth Fairy | |
| Trad Grades | |
| <= HVS | 0 |
| E1 - E3 | 1 |
| E4 - E5 | 2 |
| >= E6 | 0 |
Contents
Access
The Tooth Fairy is the SE-facing wall just to the east of the path leading from Third Sister down to Deborah's Zawn. It can be approached from Deborah's Overhang, but only at low tide.
Follow directions to Third Sister.
Descents
Descents from the Tooth Fairy's 3 trad routes are by scrambling up to the top of the ridge and then by walking down a terrace in either direction.
All of the sport routes have bolted lower-offs.
Bolting Policy
Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.
Preamble
This is the white wall overlooking the Knave, just left of the path from Third Sister down to Deborah's zawn. A lovely sunny spot, little seepage and often out of the wind.
The Routes
- Dentist's Chair - Fr. 6b+*
Climb the groove on the left (south) side of the tooth to a small overlap, step left into the main groove and follow this to the top. One of the upper bolts requires a long quickdraw. 18m - Open Wide Please - Fr. 6c+ ***
Was a bold E5, now a lovely sport route. Trend left up the bulging wall into a cruxy open groove. 18m. - Silver Sixpence - Fr. 7a ***
Beautiful sustained technical climbing up the pocketed overhanging wall forming the highest part of the crag. 18m. - Gnasher - E5, 6a
Start at the foot of the obvious left-facing flake crack in the centre of the tooth. Climb the crack to its close at a leftward-rising break. Finger traverse left along the break for 2m, then take the pockets and flakes straight up over a slight bulge, PR (gone), to bigger holds and the narrow terrace. 17m. - Brass Farthing - Fr. 7a *
Crimpy climbing up the brass-coloured compact wall right of the groove leads to an interesting sequence on the bulging wall. 15m. - Wisdom - Fr. 7a **
Shares the first bolt with Brass Farthing but trends right. A boulderer's delight. 15m. - E By Gum - E5, 6a *
A new form of substance abuse for carrot crunchers and other southerners. Start 2m right of Gnasher at the base of the pink wall. Reach an obvious left-facing fin and continue slightly left to a bulge. Pass the bulge using a jug on the right and proceed up the incipient groove to a broken terrace and the top of the tooth on the left. 15m. - Scurvy - E3, 5c
From a point 2½m left of the right end of the underlying ledge, climb up to the obvious pocket at 4m. Pull up and trend right to flakes and a loose exit onto the terrace. 10m.
First Ascents
- Dentist's Chair - A.Sharp, P.Lewis & J.Harwood 24.10.1987, Bolted 2021
- Open Wide Please - A.Sharp & P.Lewis 24.10.1987, Bolted 2021
- Silver Sixpence - Danny McCarroll & John Bullock May 2021
- Gnasher - M.Crocker 31.05.1998
- Brass Farthing - Danny McCarroll & John Bullock May 2021
- Wisdom - Bethan McCarroll & Danny McCarroll June 2021
- E By Gum - M.Crocker & J.Harwood 26.04.1998
- Scurvy - M.Crocker 31.05.1998
Additional Photos
Dentist's Chair
Dentist's Chair
Alan Rosier at the Tooth Fairy
Chris Wyatt at the Tooth Fairy
