Tooth Fairy

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Tooth Fairy
Tooth fairy area-1280x.jpg
Rock Type Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Sport/Trad
Approach Time 35 minutes
Area Gower
Sub Area Thurba to Overton
WGS-84 Location 51.553687, -4.262429
OS Grid Ref. SS 432 862
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.561586, -4.242797
GR Parking Location SS 446 871
Parking Postcode SA3 1AY
Base Elevation 12 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction South East
Aspect Partially Sunny
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type Normal
Seepage Quick drying
Crags Within a Half Mile.

Above Freelunchers Zawn, Below East Gully Groove, Deborah's Overhang, Deborah's Zawn, Eos Zawn, First Sister, Hollow Top, Horses Cliff, Juniper Wall, Liberty Zawn, Paviland Far Far Far West, Paviland Far Far West, Paviland Far West, Paviland Main Cliff, Paviland Way Out West, Rams Grove Crag, Rams Grove Seaward Crag, Red Chamber, Saddam's Wall, Seaspit Small Cove, Second Sister, Sister 2 and Half, Stalking Horse Zawn, Stallion Cove, TV Zawn, The Crag That Time Forgot, The Hole, The Knave, Third Sister, Thurba East Gully, Tooth Fairy

Tooth Fairy
Sport Grades
<= 6a+ 0
6b - 6c+ 2
7a - 7b 3
>= 7b+ 0
Tooth Fairy
Trad Grades
<= HVS 0
E1 - E3 1
E4 - E5 2
>= E6 0


The Tooth Fairy is the SE-facing wall just to the east of the path leading from Third Sister down to Deborah's Zawn. It can be approached from Deborah's Overhang, but only at low tide.

Follow directions to Third Sister.


Descents from the Tooth Fairy's 3 trad routes are by scrambling up to the top of the ridge and then by walking down a terrace in either direction.

All of the sport routes have bolted lower-offs.

Bolting Policy

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.


This is the white wall overlooking the Knave, just left of the path from Third Sister down to Deborah's zawn. A lovely sunny spot, little seepage and often out of the wind.

The Routes

  1. Dentist's Chair - Fr. 6b+*
    Climb the groove on the left (south) side of the tooth to a small overlap, step left into the main groove and follow this to the top. One of the upper bolts requires a long quickdraw. 18m

  2. Open Wide Please - Fr. 6c+ ***
    Was a bold E5, now a lovely sport route. Trend left up the bulging wall into a cruxy open groove. 18m.

  3. Silver Sixpence - Fr. 7a ***
    Beautiful sustained technical climbing up the pocketed overhanging wall forming the highest part of the crag. 18m.

  4. Gnasher - E5, 6a
    Start at the foot of the obvious left-facing flake crack in the centre of the tooth. Climb the crack to its close at a leftward-rising break. Finger traverse left along the break for 2m, then take the pockets and flakes straight up over a slight bulge, PR (gone), to bigger holds and the narrow terrace. 17m.

  5. Brass Farthing - Fr. 7a *
    Crimpy climbing up the brass-coloured compact wall right of the groove leads to an interesting sequence on the bulging wall. 15m.

  6. Wisdom - Fr. 7a **
    Shares the first bolt with Brass Farthing but trends right. A boulderer's delight. 15m.

  7. E By Gum - E5, 6a *
    A new form of substance abuse for carrot crunchers and other southerners. Start 2m right of Gnasher at the base of the pink wall. Reach an obvious left-facing fin and continue slightly left to a bulge. Pass the bulge using a jug on the right and proceed up the incipient groove to a broken terrace and the top of the tooth on the left. 15m.

  8. Scurvy - E3, 5c
    From a point 2½m left of the right end of the underlying ledge, climb up to the obvious pocket at 4m. Pull up and trend right to flakes and a loose exit onto the terrace. 10m.

First Ascents

  1. Dentist's Chair - A.Sharp, P.Lewis & J.Harwood 24.10.1987, Bolted 2021
  2. Open Wide Please - A.Sharp & P.Lewis 24.10.1987, Bolted 2021
  3. Silver Sixpence - Danny McCarroll & John Bullock May 2021
  4. Gnasher - M.Crocker 31.05.1998
  5. Brass Farthing - Danny McCarroll & John Bullock May 2021
  6. Wisdom - Bethan McCarroll & Danny McCarroll June 2021
  7. E By Gum - M.Crocker & J.Harwood 26.04.1998
  8. Scurvy - M.Crocker 31.05.1998

Additional Photos