Paviland Far Far West
|Paviland Far Far West|
|6b - 6c+||12|
|7a - 7b||0|
This substantial zawn has yielded an excellent crop of mid-grade routes. Although upon first aquaintance the wall appears steeply intimidating, the excellent friction, bountiful natural features and encouraging bolting enable the climbs to be tackled with a decisive approach and so with an unexpected ease.
The climbs all lie on the western side of the zawn and so are in shade by late afternoon.
The crag is split into left and right wings by a protruding nose, above a conglomerate boulder chockstone. The route Rock Bottom steps off this nose and onto the wall.
Access from the free parking at Pilton Green, (SS 446 871 or 51.561586, -4.242797). On the right-hand side of the B4247, approx. 2 miles from Rhossili. Park on the grass at the edge of the track leading to a farm. Cross the road, bear left and take the public footpath (signposted to Foxhole Slade) through the 'kissing-gate' on the left of the sandy-coloured house (Clifflands). Reach the top of a dry valley after about 20 minutes and numerous gates. (1.34km). At the landward end of the valley is a wooden kissing-gate (SS 438860).
Go through the gate at the top of the valley and descend a few metres to a green-painted steel gate.
After passing through the green gate, the coast path rises steeply then flattens out parallel to the fence line. Proceed diagonally west across the sward keeping just left of the island of gorse then walk down to the top of the zawn between the two obvious headlands. At first sight it looks a pile of choss but has an excellent steep western wall (left when looking landward) 15m high. Scramble down the east side, or if faint of heart, abseil down the west (at least 40m!) from substantial belays on the narrow path. The routes start near a large jammed conglomerate chockstone at the base of the cliff, not to be confused with the lower tidal block.
The first couple of routes are affected at high water only during spring tides. Unless heavy seas, the other routes are non-tidal.
Retro-bolting with FAP possible, new sport routes allowed.
All routes have newly installed lower-offs and are fully rebolted. There is a project awaiting drier conditions but this is obvious by the taped bolts or missing first hanger. The old TR's, PR's are mentioned only as a guide but will doubtless be removed in due course.
Described from left (seaward) to right.
- Dai's Route - Fr. 5+
The far left line of hangers starting from the rising traverse line. 15m.
- One for the trads - HVS 5a
Start 1m right of Dai's Route. Take the short impending wall directly, amble up a slab to a large hole, continue until it is possible to traverse right to the lower off of Cold Inconvenience. 20m.
- Cold Inconvenience - Fr. 6b *
Step onto the steep wall from the left side of a rock pedestal. Large holds lead to a sustained and fingery section higher up. Shares the belay with next route. 15m.
- Hung Over - Fr. 6a+ **
Pull steeply onto the wall from the rock pedestal (by the first of many old threads) to reach large holds then up past a small overlap with a hole. Make a big reach up from the obvious undercut and finish direct. 15m.
- Threadbare - Fr. 6b **
Start 1m right of Hung Over. Step off the top of the rock pedestal past a hole and a small overhang, then trend right to reach a depression with black streaks. 15m.
- Nematode - Fr. 6b+ *
Start 1m right, off the rock pedestal. Climb steeply, TR, past a hole containing another TR to reach a calcite area, TR. The wall above the horizontal break has a long reach for a reinforced flake. Shared belay to the left. 15m.
- Rock Bottom - Fr. 6b+ **
Start above the chockstone. Step across the void and climb to a small scoop/cave, move left and up (with difficulty) into a shallow groove. Once the difficulties have been overcome, move right to a shared belay. 15m.
- Chock A Block - Fr. 6b **
Start from the right-hand end of the chockstone. Pull up steeply, TR, then go up the steep wall, 2TR. Shared belay with Rock Bottom. 15m.
- Don't Look Down - Fr. 6c
Former project but missing hangers not replaced (or belay) leaving a very long runout to the adjacent belay. 15m.
- Off The Peg - Fr. 6b+ **
Start 2m right of the chockstone at a TR above a small hole. Climb past the TR and up the wall to a small overhang, TR. Move over it, PR and up the wall above. 15m.
- Scarface - Fr. 6b
Climb the wall (raunchy moves past old TR) to reach a shattered groove. Follow this to the top. 15m.
- Hot Flush - Fr. 6b **
Tricky moves gain a small footledge at the base of a groove,pull out of this to gain the shared belay. 15m.
- Stonewall - Fr. 6b+ *
Start 3m right of Scarface. Climb to a diagonal rightward-sloping ledge then up left,old bootlace TR, to the top. 15m.
- Ledger - Fr. 6b *
15m 2m right of Stone Wall climb direct to same diagonal rightward-sloping ledge, then up past unusual conglomerate splodge (old TR) to the shared belay, these last two routes are finger biters. 15m.
- Dai's Route - D.Emanuel 2012
- One for the Trads - Chris Wyatt 2017
- Cold Inconvenience - R.Thomas & G.Ashmore April 2012
- Hung Over - R.Thomas 1988.
- Threadbare - John Bullock 1987.
- Nematode - R.Thomas 1988.
- Rock Bottom - J.Bullock 1988.
- Chock A Block - R.Thomas 1988.
- Don't Look Down - Carl Watkins & Will Calvert, March 2021
- Off The Peg - J.Bullock 1988.
- Scarface - J.Bullock 1988.
- Hot Flush - R.Thomas & G. Ashmore April 2012
- Stonewall - J.Bullock 1988.
- Ledger - R.Thomas 1988.
Moderate swell and high tide at Paviland Far Far West