Bridge Cliff

Bridge Cliff
EGT and AS on Death of a Salesman
Rock Type	Quarried Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style	Sport/Trad
Approach Time	10 minutes
Area	Inland Limestone
Sub Area	Cefn Coed
Geodata
WGS-84 Location	51.763809 -3.4014836
OS Grid Ref.	SO 033 081
WGS-84 Parking Location	51.761539, -3.398563
GR Parking Location	SO 035 079
Parking Postcode	CF48 1EW
Base Elevation	216 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction	North
Aspect	Rarely Sunny
Wind Sheltered	Mostly
Climbing Type	Normal
Seepage
Crags Within 10.0 km
Baltic Quarry, Bridge Cliff, Cefn Coed - East, Cefn Coed - West, Cefnpennar, Cwmaman Main, Cwmaman West, Dan-y-Darren Quarry, Darren Fach, Darren Fawr, Deri, Dyffryn Crawnon, Maerdy - Rhondda Fach, Morlais Quarries, Mount Pleasant (X2), Mountain Ash, Mountain Ash Natural Buttress, Mountain Ash West, Sheriff Quarry - Maerdy, Taf Fechan, Trefil, Troedyrhiw, Twynau Gwynion Quarries, Upper Mountain Ash, Vaynor
BMC RAD
RAD Notice/Restriction	Bridge Cliff@BMC RAD

The Routes

Cefn Coed - BANNED.

"Climbing is currently banned at this venue - it lies within a local Nature Reserve and a legally designated SSSI. It has been reported that climbers have recently cleared vegetation, placed lower off bolts and the clearance of mature trees to re-develop the site, without consultation or permission from the either land owners (local authority) or the Wildlife Trust, all potentially illegal activities within an SSSI, have led to them to take this action."

See BMC RAD https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/View.aspx?id=2177

Climbs are recorded on these pages for posterity and for if, and when, the situation changes.

In the meantime, it is hoped that climbers approach the relevant bodies with a view to re-establishing climbing at this historic climbing venue.

At the right-hand side of the amphitheatre is a prominent rectangular pillar. From the right arete of this, a long low wall runs under the bridge, providing some all-weather climbing. Unfortunately the routes do get dirty, so a brush up is advisable.

1. Parsons Pleasure - D
   The obvious corner left of the left arete of the rectangular buttress. 12m.
   
   
2. Here And There - Fr. 6b+
   The centre of the wall right of Parsons Pleasure, starting from the right.
   
   
3. Arris - Fr. 6c+
   The left arete of the rectangular buttress. 9m.
   
   
4. John Henry - A2
   The thin crack in the centre of the buttress. 12m.
   
   
5. ’Ere Lies Henry - E5,6c *
   Partially frees John Henry. Make a couple of moves up the thin crack, then move right to climb the wall right of the crack with some help from the arete. Step left near the top to gain the easy finishing crack of John Henry. 12m
   
   
6. Belly Ache - Fr. 6b
   The right arete of ‘Ere Lies Henry is climbed in its entirity. 11m.
   
   
7. Tough Of The Track - Fr. 7a *
   Climb the wall immediately right of Belly Ache to finish just left of an overlap. 12m.
   
   
8. Grains From The Veins - Fr. 7a
   Climb the wall 2m right of Tough Of The Track, finishing just right of the overlap. 12m.[
   
   
9. Death Of A Salesman - E3,5c *
   Start at a short groove just right of Grains From The Veins. A thought provoking start, PR, gives way to thin moves up and left to a good hold. Move right to gain a dusty finish. 12m.
   
   
10. Pride and Prejudice - E3,6a *
    Start as for Death Of A Salesman. Climb up for 3m then move right to good holds. Move up to an overlap, then finish up the steep wall. 12m.
    
    
    

    Bridge Clift Left
11. Trimmet - Fr, 6c+ *
    Start 4m right of Pride And Prejudice and climb the disjointed cracks with difficulty. 12m.
    
    
12. Daniel Baboon - E3,6b
    Somehow gain and climb the short groove right of Trimmet. Follow it into Trimmet to finish. 12m.
    
    
13. Laughing Carrot - E3,6b
    Gain the bottomless groove/flake right of Daniel Baboon. Climb the flake and finish up the difficult wall. 12m.
    
    
14. Mad Dogs - E4,6b
    Desperate climbing up the crack line right of Daniel Baboon, then a sprint up the wall to the top. 12m.
    
    
15. Santa Anna - Fr. 6a+
    Start just right of Mad Dogs. Climb the groove and wall above two iron spikes. 12m.
    
    
16. Bewitched (Davy Pocket) - Fr. 6b+
    Climb up the wall just right of Santa Anna. 12m.
    
    
17. Rock Lobster - Fr. 7a
    Start just right of Bewitched. Climb direct to a large pocket at 7m, pull over the bulge, PR and finish up Gold Monkey. 12m.
    
    
18. Gold Monkey - Fr, 6b+
    This climbs the obvious square groove above two more iron spikes. 12m.
    
    
19. Singapore Girl - Fr. 7b+
    A finger stretcher. Start just right of Gold Monkey beneath a small overhang. Climb over it PR (missing), then follow some thin layaways to the left of two spikes. 12m.
    
    
20. The Brood - Fr. 7c
    Start below the right-hand spike. 12m.
    
    
21. Goblin Groove - Fr. 6a
    Climb the clean corner just right of The Brood. 9m.
    
    
22. Sup 13 - VD
    The wide crack just right of Goblin Groove. 9m.
    
    
23. S’wet - S
    The cracked corner just right of Sup 13. 9m.
    
    
    

    Bridge Cliff - Easy Right Side
    
    
24. Pong - VS,4b
    The thin continuous crack 2m right of S’wet. 9m.
    
    
25. Along - Fr. 6a+
    The fingery wall,from the jammed flake sharing belay on left. 9m.
    
    
26. Schlong - Fr.6a+
    From the shelf of Tree Route continue up the steep wall to twizzle belay. 10m.
    
    
27. Tree Route - VD
    From 2m right of Pong, make an ascending traverse rightwards, then finish directly up from a tree. 12m.
    
    
28. Celia - F5+
    Straight up the steep wall right ofTree Route starting at the red muddy scar ,grey through bolts. 10m.
    
    
29. Licking Celia Into Shape- Fr.5
    Glue ins,start on big flakes. 10m.
    
    
30. Cecelia - Fr. 6b+
    Steep start leads to a thin crack through the bulge,shares belay with previous. 10m.
    
    
31. Ophelia - Fr. 6b
    Start just L of the number 15 at the base of crag.Thin flakes up the wall then pull into the scoop. 10m.
    
    
32. Nameless Groove - S
    The groove R of the number 15 painted at base of crag. 10m.
    
    
33. Puff - HS,4b
    The thin crack just right of Nameless Groove. 9m.
    
    
34. Eliminate - HVS,5a
    The thin cracks 2m right of Puff. 11m.
    
    
35. X-Ray - S
    The cracks 2m right of Eliminate. 11m.
    
    Dense brambles,wire netting and the canal complicate access to the remaing routes.
    
    
36. Elm Tree Groove - D
    About 5m right of X-Ray is an obvious corner crack. Climb this to exit through tree roots. 6m.
    
    Crag netted after this also too close to the leat canal.
    
    
37. Jug Wall - M
    Climb the wall just right of Elm Tree Groove on big holds. 6m.
    
    
38. Duck - VD
    The crack just to the right of Jug Wall. 7m.
    
    
39. Duckling - VS,4b
    The crack to the right of Duck. Finish up the slanting corner. 7m.
    
    
40. Plip - HS,4a
    5m right of Duckling is a tree. Climb up by this and step right to finish up a flake. 6m.
    
    
41. Plop - HS,4a
    Try to avoid the tree and climb the wall 2m right of Plip. 6m.
    
    
42. Gog - HS
    The overgrown, messy groove 8m right of Plop. 8m.
    
    
43. Unfinished Symphony - VS,4c
    The crack and dirty scoop 6m right of Gog. 7m.
    
    
44. Wee Willie Winkie - E2,5c,5c
    A right to left traverse, superseding Jumbo The Elephant. 24m.
    1. 12m Climb Gold Monkey to the obvious traverse line, move left and belay on the last set of iron spikes.
    2. 12m Continue along the finger traverse to Death Of A Salesman and continue around the arete to finish.
       
       

Between Main Wall West and the Bridge Cliff there are more than 80 routes at this flat bottomed and sheltered quarry.

The image below shows (I think) the Main Wall West - just right of the descent gully.

I think the route 'Lyre' HVS 5a goes up the corner right of the ivy and skirts the overhang above on its right.

First Ascents

1. Parsons Pleasure - Dave Parsons Pre-1973
2. Here And There - Gary Gibson solo 17 May 1985
3. Arris - Andy Sharp 1982
4. John Henry - Phil Thomas, D.Davies 1970
5. ’Ere Lies Henry - Gary Gibson solo 17 May 1985
6. Belly Ache - Gary Gibson solo 17 May 1985
7. Tough Of The Track - Andy Sharp, Pete Lewis 1984
8. Grains From The Veins - Andy Sharp 1984
9. Death Of A Salesman - Tony Penning, John Harwood 24 April 1984
10. Pride and Prejudice - Andy Sharp, Pete Lewis 1985
11. Trimmet - Dave Parsons, P.Wood 1969
    FFA Andy Sharp, Pete Lewis 22 July 1978
    
12. Daniel Baboon - Mike Danford, Dave Parsons - Ping A1 1970
    FFA Andy Sharp, Tony Penning 3rd June 1984
    
13. Laughing Carrot - Andy Sharp, R.Smith 1984
14. Mad Dogs - Andy Sharp, John Harwood 12 July 1983
15. Santa Anna - T.James, W.Williamson, Mike Danford A1 1970
    FFA C.Court, Tony Penning 7th June 1984
    
16. Bewitched (Davy Pocket) - Andy Sharp, Pete Lewis 1984
17. Rock Lobster - O.Jones, R.Davies 15 May 1987
18. Gold Monkey - Tony Penning, Andy Sharp 7th June 1984
19. Singapore Girl - Andy Sharp, Pete Lewis 1984
20. The Brood - C.Heald, Gordon Stainforth - Gunagimi A1 1970
    Andy Sharp, Pete Lewis 1pt 1984
    
21. Goblin Groove - J.Kerry, C.Horsfield 1970
22. Sup 13 - Unknown
23. S’wet - Unknown
24. Pong - Unknown 1973-1978
25. Along -
26. Schlong -
27. Tree Route - Unknown Pre-1973
28. Celia - Unknown Pre-1973
29. Licking Celia Into Shape -
30. Cecelia -
31. Ophelia -
32. Nameless Groove - Unknown Pre-1973
33. Puff - Unknown Pre-1973
34. Eliminate - Unknown Pre-1973
35. X-Ray - Unknown Pre-1973
36. Elm Tree Groove - Unknown Pre-1973
37. Jug Wall - Unknown Pre-1973
38. Duck - Unknown Pre-1973
39. Duckling - Unknown Pre-1973
40. Plip - Unknown Pre-1973
41. Plop - Unknown Pre-1973
42. Gog - Unknown Pre-1973
43. Unfinished Symphony - Unknown Pre-1973
44. Wee Willie Winkie - Tony Penning, C.Court 7th June 1984
    

Jumbo The Elephant. Unknown Pre-1973